15 minute idle ECU reset / engine running problems - Page 2 - KTM Duke 390 Forum
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post #11 of 31 Old 05-20-2015, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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I've done this previously and it gave me good results for a few weeks, then the bike returned to it's former misbehaving self at low revs...
Issues related to permanency could be due to the time it takes to learn, with a "dirty" reset it takes longer to learn and the rider may perceive this as it returning to its former state. If you are finding this to be an issue, take it to the dealer for a "clean" reset with the KTM Diagnostic Tool.

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post #12 of 31 Old 05-20-2015, 04:32 AM
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I am REALLY sceptical about this whole thing - can't see any logic in it, but my level of knowledge may not be upto the mark. However, I noticed plenty of articles and forum post talking about this. Here is a quote from an Alfa Romeo owner (this guy's car seems to have become completely new!!!! -

My GT 2.0L JTS has been idling a bit rough recently, and it felt like a few of my horses had flown south for the winter. In addition, my climate insisted on only blowing hot air, no matter what temp I dialled in.

Having trawled through various threads, the ECU reset fix was mentioned several times as a cure for both symptoms.

So, today being a quiet day in the Christmas break, I decided to attempt the ECU and throttle re-set procedure -which is as follows if you haven't seen in other threads :

1. Disconnect battery for 45 mins
2. Reconnect battery, and turn ignition to MAR for 90 secs
3. Turn off and leave 90 secs
4. Start engine WITHOUT pressing throttle and let the car idle for 15 mins (I repeat, do not touch the throttle whilst the car is idling)
5. Turn engine off and leave for 10 minutes
6. Start the car and go for a drive, using a number of styles (eg town, motorway, thrash etc)

So I did this, and my GT is reborn ! Faster, smoother, more torqier, even idle - it's bloody fantastic ! I can't believe how different the whole car feels.

It nearly cured the climate problem (well it blows a bit cooler) so if anyone has any tips on how to fix, let me know.

But the cherry on the icing on the cake was something I didn't expect, it seems to have cured my 'stepping' drivers window problem that I had given up on !!

Now the driver's window goes up and down as smoothly as the proverbial baby's bum.

So, if you're thinking of trying the ECU/Throttle reset and you have a hour or two on your hands this festive break, give it a go - it might work miracles for you to !
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post #13 of 31 Old 05-20-2015, 04:48 AM
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The KTM one has been about for a decade since the arrival of early Superdukes in Europe. The 15 mins reset has been used by people and dealers for a decade now and usually with good effect.


Happily... my 15 doesn't seem to have any of the issues some of you guys seem to get.
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post #14 of 31 Old 05-20-2015, 10:32 AM
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Cool! Definitely going to give this a whirl after my break in period. Thanks!
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post #15 of 31 Old 05-20-2015, 11:33 AM
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This is great info, thanks a lot!

Lighter makes it righter!
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post #16 of 31 Old 05-21-2015, 07:09 PM
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Something that MAY be happening regarding regression to "old" tune after a reset: power disruption to the ECU by removing or disconnecting a battery cable or main fuse. Many ECU's have more than one RAM module to store and retrieve data from just like any computer motherboard. It may or may not have a battery or capacitor to augment main battery system voltage. Many passenger vehicles today require the use of a memory saver when the electrical system is being repaired. It's very common for mechanics to fail to take this precaution, and the results are not pretty. In a simpler system like KTM's a memory saver isn't mandated but power disruption to the ECU could quite possibly trigger a base map restoration and possible loss of modified settings. A "Hard Reset" with a programmer would be more expedient with a better chance of success than a "Soft Reset" simply because a re-burned ROM chip is permanently altered and adaptive ROM is constantly being recycled or refreshed at a high frequency rate. Adaptive ECU function is a beautiful thing which can adapt to MINOR changes in fuel quality, air temp and density and so on but think of it as a cane, not a foundation, particularly if engine operating parameters are being modified substantially. Since this bike suffers from acute lean fueling from the factory having a base map with enriched fueling such as the Akrapovic software should be an initial tuning approach and build from that with a piggyback ECU or tuning device IF needed. I suspect in most cases additional fueling enhancements won't be needed unless it's a track-only bike.

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post #17 of 31 Old 05-21-2015, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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..Since this bike suffers from acute lean fueling from the factory having a base map with enriched fueling such as the Akrapovic software should be an initial tuning approach and build from that with a piggyback ECU or tuning device IF needed...
The Akrapovic map will not address the lean condition in the closed loop, since its an OEM supplied part and the emissions regulatory requirement would still be in place, hence only fuelling in the open loop would be changed to be richer. In other words, the closed loop A/F ratio would still need to be 14.7:1 even with the Akrapovic map.

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post #18 of 31 Old 05-21-2015, 09:36 PM
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The Akrapovic map will not address the lean condition in the closed loop, since its an OEM supplied part and the emissions regulatory requirement would still be in place, hence only fuelling in the open loop would be changed to be richer. In other words, the closed loop A/F ratio would still need to be 14.7:1 even with the Akrapovic map.
Bring on the fix malJohann!!
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post #19 of 31 Old 10-28-2015, 05:40 PM
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Shamelessly copied and adapted from another forum. If you have engine running problems, try this first.

It's good if you can solve several problems with one answer. Those who are interested, please keep reading:
- For those of you who must service your 390 when no KTM dealer is near.
- If you have unusually low gas mileage, and you think itís because of your driving style, you should perform the following procedure.
- If your idle is too high or too low, this can procedure can help with this issue. Other positive results can be achieved for engines that die when you are stopped or at low RPM or have high idle.
- If you have to constantly rev the engine during cold winter starts just to keep it running, this procedure can help.
- If you have made any modifications to the input sensors, air intake or exhaust.

The solution may lie in the acquisition of new parameters. It may sound complicated, but it is not. The low cost is out of proportion to the possible improvement.

Prepare for the procedure:
- The fuel tank must have enough gasoline to complete the process.
- The procedure is to be performed outdoors as a safety precaution.
- Do it somewhere where it won't disturb your neighbours.
- The vehicle and the owner must be in a cool ambient temperature environment.
- A clock must be present.
- The bike must not be on its side stand, so sit still on it, or put it on a paddock stand with the side stand up.

What is to be done:
- The 390 is on a paddock stand and/or vertical.
- The engine must be cold.
- It should be a cool ambient temperature when performing the procedure.
- Start the bike and let it idle for 15 minutes.
- Do not touch the bike while itís idling: Do not operate throttle or other functions.
- Do not let the bike idle for less than 15 minutes or more than 16 minutes.
- If the bike stops, restart the 15 minutes again.
- Should the procedure be incomplete or faulty, it must be repeated again 100% accurately or you can take it to the KTM dealer for a faster resolution.
I just did all of this, shut it off/ took key out, turned back on and it stil has the dying on idle" curse... died about 5 minutes after restarting.
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post #20 of 31 Old 10-28-2015, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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I just did all of this, shut it off/ took key out, turned back on and it stil has the dying on idle" curse... died about 5 minutes after restarting.
Ignorance is bliss. This worked for some and not for others. I think its well established knowledge by now that the bike dying is due to a lean condition in the closed loop. Not knowing where you're from doesn't help, but loading the EU base map seems to be the latest in fixing some of the problems with fuelling. Otherwise get a Bazzaz or PCV and get it dyno tuned.
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