15 minute idle ECU reset / engine running problems - Page 3 - KTM Duke 390 Forum
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post #21 of 31 Old 03-25-2016, 06:38 AM
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ok. i can see the point at 15 minutes idle.

But isn't better before doing that to unplag the battery for at least 1 minute? Somes ECUs reset, by this procedure.

Also is it possible to confirm that 390 has a BOSCH ME17.9.8 TC1762 KTM ecu unit?

How meny seconds are needed battery off for reset?

Final question? how much more inlet flow can handle the
BOSCH ME17.9.8 withoot changing the open loop afr values?
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post #22 of 31 Old 03-25-2016, 07:17 AM
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Final question:

how much is the stock open loop AFR ratio? I believe it would be about 13.5: 1, but i haven't tested with a wideband lambda. If there is anyone that has tested it, please answer.
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post #23 of 31 Old 08-21-2016, 03:04 PM
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Finally got around to trying this after 2500 miles. Frankly, I was a bit skeptical, but it has made a difference. Less jerking around at low rpms and I can carry each gear about 5 mph lower without the engine protesting. Until and/or unless I do any mods (exhaust, airbox, etc) this seems to have done the trick. If it doesn't stick permanently as some have reported, I don't see any big inconvenience in having to repeat it periodically. However, since apparently big brother is out to get the aftermarket, I may have to buy an exhaust and ECU piggyback just in case!
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post #24 of 31 Old 08-23-2016, 02:06 AM
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yes, the 15 minute idle seams to help especially after small modifications. And in order to answer my questions, after installing the Κ&Ν air filter and after the 15 minute idle process, i haven't noticed any change in the AFR values at open loop. This means that the stock ECU can manage small mods such as exhaust or air filter replacement (in my opinion not both), if the 15 minutes idle procedure is made after the installation.
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post #25 of 31 Old 08-23-2016, 11:17 AM
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I have done the reset like 4 times (twice 2015 and twice 2016) and the effect is null. The bike is the same with no improvement or perceptible change.

I did it because low fuel economy. The problem appears every winter and disappear entering in the hot season so now it doesn't worry me anymore.

That 15 min idle reset is in my experience useless and i believe that many of you are just feeling the placebo effect.

That's what i can say after 10.000.

Saludos.
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post #26 of 31 Old 03-06-2017, 01:23 AM
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Dear all ECU gurus.
I have tried, several times, to perform this procedure as my engine revs way too high after fitting a DNA air filter
Put the stock air filter back, still revving too high (5-6,000 rpm)
Bought a PowerTronic ECU fitted this (first forgot one plug at the injector) and started the bike with ECU in place and connected.
Stand up, not touching the throttle, engine runs around 7,000 rpm within the first 30 seconds.
Thinking this not too favourable on a cold engine I switch it off.
Disconnect the ECU and replace this with the supplied "dummy".
Engine starts runs 1,500 - 2,000 for the first minute then revs up to 7,000+ again.
With a relatively cold engine (it is around 24C here in the morning cool) I feel having it run for 15 minutes at 7,000 so rpm is not what I supposed to do.
Also, the fuel gauge shows no bars and the dial reads "low fuel" which is not the case, the red engine warning light remains engaged (not the centre red-light).
The general warning light remains engaged but this will be due to it reading "Low Fuel" which is not the case.
Any advice other than sending me to a dealer which is not an option?
Cheers,
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post #27 of 31 Old 03-06-2017, 06:05 PM
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Is it possible to remove all the modifications and start from there?
Any issue with the throttle cable or twist grip?
Maybe there is air leaking somewhere around the throttle body? If extra air can enter then the ECU will likely add fuel to prevent over lean running and this will make the engine rev - and almost certainly generate a fault code/management light.
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post #28 of 31 Old 03-06-2017, 09:33 PM
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Dear AndyB,
Thanks or the input.
I removed all the mods and tried the 15 minutes procedure only with the same results.
You might be right in the suggestion that the airbox is damaged somewhere as I can see the cover screws the plastic broken away as well.
When fitting the shock mudguard, I had to lift the box.
Undoing the 3 retaining bolts may have opened up some cracks/holes.
This bike is from 2012, has been in the tropics all her live so the UV might have gotten to it.
Will try to order a new box in Bangkok.
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post #29 of 31 Old 03-07-2017, 04:23 AM
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If the airbox is not in the natural position it might be putting stress on the throttle body also lifting that part. Check for a leak somewhere around the body and where it joins the cylinder.
I think a leak in or after the throttle is more likely to create the high revs.
Good luck with the fix.
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post #30 of 31 Old 03-07-2017, 11:00 AM
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Sounds like an air leak to me, had the same thing happen after removing the charcoal canister. Once I got the vacuum port on the throttle body sealed, it went back to normal. However, after the reset the next time I turned on the ignition I got the "53" error code. Plugging the solenoid back in and repeating the reset cleared the code.

BTW my try at replacing the solenoid with a resistor resulted in smoke coming from under the fuel tank...
That little 1/4 W thing had turned into charcoal, duh. Later today I will measure the current draw from that solenoid and find a more appropriate resistor. Meanwhile, I've bobbed the solenoid to make it a bit smaller and will tie it under the tank.

I am becoming quite experienced at R&Ring the tank cover....

Lighter makes it righter!
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