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Given the wear on the cam I'd replace the followers too.
For shims I'd get a hot cams kit so you have all the sizes. The kits aren't cheap, but you'll have plenty for the future, or just sell the kit minus the 4 you used on ebay.
I'd also buy a few filters and screens - that engine will want to be flushed a few times looking at your pictures :oops:
Most importantly you need to work out what caused the oil starvation in the first place.
 

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I'm selling a basically new hot cams kit. Upgrading to titanium retainers soon.
 

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If it was me, I would do what one of the other members suggested which was to blow out the passages and the craddle. I would just replace the cams and anything else that looks damaged. I would also look at the valve clearances as well and inspect the shims.

For your oil, that amount of metal and stuff is actually pretty common even at 3k miles. I had a few flakes even at 9k miles.
 

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No need to take out the engine.
Take the tank off and if you undo the clutch cable at the engine side that gives you a little more space.
You will obviously need the cam-cover gasket and a tensioner gasket (don't mess with any liquid gasket as this might block up an oil channel again).
Feeler gauges and obviously valve shims but these you can only order/get when the new cams and followers are in place.
Perhaps also order the o-ring underneath the cam-bridge.
Good luck.
 

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I haven't done it yet, but it looks pretty straight forward to remove the radiator. I expect that would open up a bunch more space (access) at the front.
 

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So would taking out the engine but completely unnecessary.
All can be done from the top with the tank off.
 

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FWIW, I agree with @rgmr250: "I...[T]heir statement about the 'bike was running on break in oil' is pure BS." Even an oil analysis would not identify the additives, blends and viscosity i.e. the manufacturer's formula. However, given forum members' experience with metal particulates during the break-in period, it is highly likely that these, rather than the oil itself, was what probably clogged the oil passages.

I'm really glad you're doing the work yourself!
 

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The nozzles are removable from the bridge (the part that lifts off and holds the cams) so you can clean them in reverse with compressed air. Then blow through all the passages in the bridge.
Do it over a clean surface and see what comes out. If it turns out they are all clear then you might have to go deeper to find the blockage.
But I'm an optimist :) so would hope to find that a piece of swarf or something on the nozzle related to the damaged cam.
Hi, do you happen to know where could I find the nozzle part selling separately? Seem like KTM only sell them together with the whole assembly.
 

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90130064000 OIL JET on my Duke 200 and Duke 390

So most likely this is the part # you're looking for.
There are four of these in the camshaft bridge.



Hi, do you happen to know where could I find the nozzle part selling separately? Seem like KTM only sell them together with the whole assembly.
 

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I wouldn't even attempt to swap those oil jets. Buy a carborator jet cleaner, I just did mine two days ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Do I need to empty the oil to put the engine at TDC ?
Also to replace the camshaft should I drain coolant ?
 

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We either have a troll on our hands or 390duke2021 needs to take on a course on Otto engines basics.
I'd also think with your insight on (motorcycle) engines it's not the best of ideas to work on your Duke yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
We either have a troll on our hands or 390duke2021 needs to take on a course on Otto engines basics.
I'd also think with your insight on (motorcycle) engines it's not the best of ideas to work on your Duke yourself.
Wow. this guy seems nice. I am new to motorcycles and I was just asking. But now that I look at the questions again. They are dumb
 

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No problem 390duke2021 I'm merely trying to keep the forum genuine and sincere.
The last 3 posts make me assume you are either a troll or, as you say now new to engines.
I apologise if it came in a little strong.
 

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My feeling is that these are not repairs that someone new to engines should be considering doing on their own without on hand guidance from someone with experience. There appears to be a lack of basic knowledge which creates a risk of mistakes higher than it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Hey guys been tearing down the duke this week end.
Here is where I am at
Light Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Rim

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Gas

Removing the followers next.
Is this the bolt that holds the followers on ?
Audio equipment Automotive design Motor vehicle Cable Gadget

Also if someone knows the torque spec to put back on that would be great
any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone !!!
 

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What are you changing out again?
Also, I'm guessing you don't want those cam shims lol.
 
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