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yup ... it caught me on several slippery corners when i was shifting my gear from 4th to 3rd and ready to take the corner ... and the engine went Dead on me ... F ! and when i release the clutch ... it stutter and came back alive but the engine braking was evil .. i put both legs down to balance ...

agree on the cold start, had that prob and now it's gone, for the stalled issue no need to wait for 2 minute, when cranking just play abit on the throttle , it works all the time now.

the other issue on revving on free gear and engine went dead ... most prolly due to ... injector was saving too much gas .. i will try to play with the idling ... tune it to 1,800 ~2,000rpm ... hmmm....

now i have a new problem .. yesterday i notice i had a Blank Throttle, blank as in when throttling the engine has no feedback ... as if the cable is loose .... just now i had it again ... DAMNED ! ...


Phil's problem sounds extreme. I had starting issues at first but it is much better now after around 3000km. I'll bet if I stall it when warm it will still be a bitch. When this happens just leave it for 2 minutes before trying again. She will start...think of it as a personality trait...that way you won't feel like head butting the dash.
 

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It looks like i've had the same problem as well, engine stalled/cut out for no reason today at the lights and I couldn't get it restarted. very frustrating! hopefully this 'stalling' issue like paul's doesn't continue
 

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i had enough of the nonsense:mad: ... i'm waiting for the piggyback for rescue ...
i have talked to the local dealer and they have made a complaint ....
so far.. they have no new version for the ECU re-program ...

piggyback eta 25th Feb ....;)


It looks like i've had the same problem as well, engine stalled/cut out for no reason today at the lights and I couldn't get it restarted. very frustrating! hopefully this 'stalling' issue like paul's doesn't continue
 

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bike stalled 5 time in this evening ride ... of cos i ride hooliganly ... but aint this bike make to hooligan ???
 

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Yes and no mate, the bike as it comes from factory isnt "ring the neck out of it ready". Thats not to say the issue is you but there are certain factors that will cause it, peak reving the bike over a very short period (traffic light dash) will cause the fueling to firstly starve then just as its catching up and giving you heaps your shutting down which is pretty much flaming it out. Theres also the air filter, if you've changed that it will cause fluctuations and then theres the exhausts you've been playing with. The PT may help with stopping it but if not Id be hammering my shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
following on from my post back in Nov regarding the 390 Duke not starting;

the bike was returned to me after a week and seemed fine. this only lasted until mid December though, then the problems with starting began again. Then failed to start at all - so back to the garage.

This time, as it's winter, I asked them to keep hold of the bike until it's solved.

After a month and following checks that were advised by KTM, they replaced the throttle body.
In a addition to this KTM advised of another similar problem on another bike. Where a connection was not fully tightened (forgot what he called it). This was the the same with my bike.

So, with a new throttle body and tightened connections, the bike has been returned - and all is fine, so far .............
 

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Hopefully its fixed for you now, its a long time to have the same problem. Be good to know the connector or a pic of it so others can check theirs if they are having the same probs.
thanks for keeping us updated.
 

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I have the same issue with my 390 EU. Since day 1, sometimes will not start up especially when is worm. Within a week period of time, switched off on traffic lights and i spent around a minute to get it back on!
 

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i stalled my bike during a corner too ... pull clutch engine dead ...release clutch engine on but it skidded ...**** thats dangerous...2 times now , thanks god the road was clear
 

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Take it back to the service centre, use your warranty to get it sorted straight away. Mine has never done it so its not normal and shouldnt happen.

As a note it does die before dropping the clutch either click up a cog or slowly release the clutch. You dont have to dump it to get the engine rolling over again.........stay calm ;)
 

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Yep. I've had the issue crop up twice, where I pulled in the clutch and it stalled. Luckily for me, I was turning left at a light, pulled the clutch in to down shift from 3rd to 2nd. Bike stalled and I thought "WTF?" - released the clutch and the bike kicked into life again. Luckily I had push down on the foot brake when I felt it stall, so no skidding for me. The 2nd time I was lane splitting, pulled in the clutch and it stalled, let go and it recovered. Was up right, but still needed a change of underwear because of the sudden engine braking. It's akin to pushing starting a car, so if it happens release the clutch slowly and when it takes pull it back in, spin the engine up and release again or hold it in and pull over.
 

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I have a similar problem to you all. I suspect it's just bad fueling (i.e. poor mapping). I'm hoping we see the service centres release a new factory map soon (I believe that the D200's had a new map released some time after they were first released which ran better). My D390 will stall just after starting, on a roll up to a traffic light, taking off from a traffic light and just because it wants to. I'm pretty quick to snatch the clutch in and roll start it if I have momentum (release clutch in second while dropping ass hard onto seat) and it ALWAYS starts quicker that way.

If it stalls as above and I can't roll start it ... I can only start it with 10 seconds of cranking on a partial throttle opening... and I can smell the fuel.
 

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I have a similar problem to you all. I suspect it's just bad fueling (i.e. poor mapping). I'm hoping we see the service centres release a new factory map soon (I believe that the D200's had a new map released some time after they were first released which ran better). My D390 will stall just after starting, on a roll up to a traffic light, taking off from a traffic light and just because it wants to. I'm pretty quick to snatch the clutch in and roll start it if I have momentum (release clutch in second while dropping ass hard onto seat) and it ALWAYS starts quicker that way.

If it stalls as above and I can't roll start it ... I can only start it with 10 seconds of cranking on a partial throttle opening... and I can smell the fuel.
Mine stalled twice with the Powercone mate, its only ever done it one other time but that was my fault because I didnt let it warm up to the first/second bar. Once I put the OEM one back on it stopped. Im probably wrong but I reckon the pipe is snuffing it out on you. Its a P.I.T.A to change it back over but Id be interested to see if it stopped when you changed back.
 

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Mine stalled twice with the Powercone mate, its only ever done it one other time but that was my fault because I didnt let it warm up to the first/second bar. Once I put the OEM one back on it stopped. Im probably wrong but I reckon the pipe is snuffing it out on you. Its a P.I.T.A to change it back over but Id be interested to see if it stopped when you changed back.
Actually little difference between the powercone and the normal pipe on my bike in terms of stalling.

I keep the DB killers in - there's enough back pressure.

Here's the power cone with the outer baffle removed - the power curve was smoothed out but there was no increase in performance. (Inner DB killer and CAT are in place). It's just asking for trouble with the cops without the outer killer in place. I'm going to try it without the inner DB killer in and the outer one in place (and CAT) next.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pb8ibh66ao8qce/2014-04-04 09.32.58.mp4
 

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I tried all variences and ended up finding the best combo was both DB's and the CAT installed. I agree by the way that single DB's are just way to loud.
 

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I tried all variences and ended up finding the best combo was both DB's and the CAT installed. I agree by the way that single DB's are just way to loud.
Did you try the inside DB and cat combo? Any news? Less power? More noise only?

Do you think the Powercone actually increases power or top speed? I'm not sure it does TBH.
 

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It didnt change anything regarding combo's I tried it just got louder. I lost power when I added the Powercone, it was noticable. I started using more revs on take off and it was revving higher in the RPM range to reach 60-80-100km/h. Im confident to say that you would feel the difference in drive with the OEM exhaust. The Powercone just left it feeling hollow.
 

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The stalling bug has finally hit me lately, happened a couple of times leaving the industrial park where I work and once when leaving home. Seems to only happen when it's cold and if I give it a bit too much while it's still warming up. will see how it goes, hopefully it sorts itself out like my overheating issue!
 

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Hello Guys,
The reason for the starting issues at warm up is that KTM 390 has a temp. sensor which runs the fans and all. apart from that it also has a engine temp sensor which can stop the engine if overheated.
Well, I have the latest version 2014. got is last week only which has the new dual direction radiator fans. I did not have any issues till date. However, when run in traffic and the fan kicks in, the temp really builds up. After this we need to push the starter a second more than normal. that's it. no need to give throttle.
As of date no major issues with it. All smiles to ride. It got even smoother after first service with change to Synthetic Oil.
Cheers !
 

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It didnt change anything regarding combo's I tried it just got louder. I lost power when I added the Powercone, it was noticable. I started using more revs on take off and it was revving higher in the RPM range to reach 60-80-100km/h. Im confident to say that you would feel the difference in drive with the OEM exhaust. The Powercone just left it feeling hollow.
Any change in the exhaust will ask for need to change the engine maps. the stock is all super.
Alternatively you can go for Piggyback
You wont even notice that you crossed 120Kmh in 5th gear unless you see the revs on indicator.
its that smooth or I would say consistent.:)
 
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