Hi I got the lights on ebay. The switch I got is US made and not expensive from 12Vtechnology.com I used the switched power spare spade connector leads (power and ground) found above the engine. I soldered and heat shrunk the switch and light leads together as that is a no fail connection.Did you just hardwire them in or use anything special? I have been toying with the idea of using something from
DENALI Electronics - LED Lights, CANsmart Controllers, Horns, & More
Cool! Looks goodHi I got the lights on ebay. The switch I got is US made and not expensive from 12Vtechnology.com I used the switched power spare spade connector leads (power and ground) found above the engine. I soldered and heat shrunk the switch and light leads together as that is a no fail connection.
Sorry that you had to go through that man. Sounds like your going to be able to get back to normal or hopefully close to that.Thumbs up. More light is always better.
And i say that with a bit of experience. august 2021, 1030 pm on my way home, two pitbulls ran out in the street,
directly in front of me, just after i clicked 5th gear (actually 4th, but I am geared 16/43).
well, one of them is outright dead; ended up taking me over the last year to mend/rehab my torn right shoulder.
maybe if there had been more light on the road, those toads wouldn't have jumped out from between those two cars
the way they did.
I don't ever wanna take that long getting back up again (but at least I never had a chance to even let go of the bike)
More light is always better.
Nice .. Are the switched power leads accessible without removing the tank? I was pondering adding amber driving lights to my engine guards. I'd just leave them off/on when switched. ThanksHi I got the lights on ebay. The switch I got is US made and not expensive from 12Vtechnology.com I used the switched power spare spade connector leads (power and ground) found above the engine. I soldered and heat shrunk the switch and light leads together as that is a no fail connection.
OK .. Thank you. Here in WI, my bike is currently under cover. Are the switched/unswitched leads different in any way to know which is which? Thx muchThere are two very accessible spade lug pairs above the cylinder. You do not need to remove anything and can see them if you look. One set is switched which is what I am using, and the other is unswitched always on. Super easy.
Use a digital volt meter buddy! It’s a great investment! I suggest you wire to the switched 12V supply. Measure the voltage at the spade lugs to chassis frame. One set will have 12V that is unswitched. The other set will be 0V. Then turn the bike on and you should measure 12V witch means its switched.OK .. Thank you. Here in WI, my bike is currently under cover. Are the switched/unswitched leads different in any way to know which is which? Thx much
ACC1 is connected to Fuse F9 and is powered on all the time. Its wires are Yellow-Green for positive and Black-Yellow for negativeOK .. Thank you. Here in WI, my bike is currently under cover. Are the switched/unswitched leads different in any way to know which is which? Thx much
Nice .. Thank youACC1 is connected to Fuse F9 and is powered on all the time. Its wires are Yellow-Green for positive and Black-Yellow for negative
ACC2 is connected to Fuse F10 and is switched power. Its wires are Blue-Red for positive and Black-Yellow for negative
Yup the way I set it up you can also take them off without cutting up the plastic. Also, more separation between beams makes them more effective on the road. But hey thanks for the suggestion!I would have drilled them into the black covering of the gas tank so it looks more seamless.