[sprockoz]

Howdy,
Fitted Andreani cartridges and the box was clearly marked for Duke 390 however when the OEM internals were removed the Andreani cartridges were clearly longer.
When fitted in the bike the front was raised by 15mm and i could only lower it down by 8mm through the triple trees leaving the front of the bike 6mm to high.
Recall reading that Andreani just reboxed the RC cartridges which are longer.

Anyone else run into this problem?
Cheers

 

[KTMasean]

Where have you had this done?
I had my Andreani inserts installed at Sino Moto in Chiang Mai and found the springs too stiff.
They replaced them for weaker once f.o.c.
I remember there are different sets for the first and second series as well as for a Duke versis an RC.

 

[_Big_Mac_]

I've had the same problem. I've dropped the forks in the triple clamps as much as I could and I ride it like that. I'm not happy about it.

See my post Installing Andreani 105/KT7E fork inserts in a post-2017...

FWIW I also had to use much thicker oil than recommended by Andreani to get decent rebound damping, and my adjuster is screwed in almost all the way. The adjuster is adjusting, the rebound gets super slow if I turn them all the way, but it seems like the range between 100% damping and 0% damping is like the last half a turn. And that's with thick oil.

I won't be buying Andreani again. It woks, I'm doing track days with the bike and it behaves much better than on stock suspension, but if I knew then what I know today, I'd have looked for a different brand.

 

[sprockoz]

I've had the same problem. I've dropped the forks in the triple clamps as much as I could and I ride it like that. I'm not happy about it.

See my post Installing Andreani 105/KT7E fork inserts in a post-2017...

FWIW I also had to use much thicker oil than recommended by Andreani to get decent rebound damping, and my adjuster is screwed in almost all the way. The adjuster is adjusting, the rebound gets super slow if I turn them all the way, but it seems like the range between 100% damping and 0% damping is like the last half a turn. And that's with thick oil.

I won't be buying Andreani again. It woks, I'm doing track days with the bike and it behaves much better than on stock suspension, but if I knew then what I know today, I'd have looked for a different brand.

How i got around the problem was to lower the cartridges internally, but it meant me sending them from Thailand to Australia to have it done. That put the cost of the cartridges into ridiculous territory. The reason that i went to this expense was i have previously learned the hard way that having the front to high doesn't only affect steering geometry it also affects braking as the correct weight transfer to the front end does not occur.
We shouldn't have to go and fix soemthing that is sold as specific to our bike which clearly is not specific for the bike.
For your rebound problem i would suggest thicker oil in the rebound leg only. You mentioned that you had to go with thicker oil already. Can you go thicker again?
Presume that your spring rate is correct and not to high or strong? Sags etc ok?

 

[sprockoz]

How i got around the problem was to lower the cartridges internally, but it meant me sending them from Thailand to Australia to have it done. That put the cost of the cartridges into ridiculous territory. The reason that i went to this expense was i have previously learned the hard way that having the front to high doesn't only affect steering geometry it also affects braking as the correct weight transfer to the front end does not occur.
We shouldn't have to go and fix soemthing that is sold as specific to our bike which clearly is not specific for the bike.
For your rebound problem i would suggest thicker oil in the rebound leg only. You mentioned that you had to go with thicker oil already. Can you go thicker again?
Presume that your spring rate is correct and not to high or strong? Sags etc ok?

PS, agreed that i will NEVER use an Andreani product again as this is the second bike where i have had issues with Andreani products not working as advertised!

 

[_Big_Mac_]

Spring was right on the money, I gave them my weight and the sag was right where it needed to be on almost stock preload settings.

I only put thicker oil in the rebound leg (Motul Factory line Light Medium 7,5W). The compression leg has the Andreani-recommended Ohlins Road & Track 19 cST @ 40 C. I didn't notice any problems with compression damping.
That Motul oil has a viscosity of 24.6 cST @ 40 C, so it's an increase from 19 and, again, this needs an almost-closed adjustment valve to give sensible damping. I would expect, from a well designed product, that the recommended fork oil would give correct damping at stock adjuster setting, but it was a pogo stick.

For me, I was able to drop the forks in the triple clamps enough to get the geometry back in order, but now the fork caps are so close to the handlebar, I had to buy special low-profile hex keys to reach the adjusters

Oh well. I wouldn't do it again but the end effect is good. I'm no longer able to out-ride the suspension, it never bottoms out, doesn't chatter etc.

FWIW I swapped the rear at the same time, installed an Ohlins STX46. The shock works perfectly straight from the box, installation was a breeze, sag was correct on stock preload settings, rebound was easy to set, everything just worked.

 

[sprockoz]

Spring was right on the money, I gave them my weight and the sag was right where it needed to be on almost stock preload settings.

I only put thicker oil in the rebound leg (Motul Factory line Light Medium 7,5W). The compression leg has the Andreani-recommended Ohlins Road & Track 19 cST @ 40 C. I didn't notice any problems with compression damping.
That Motul oil has a viscosity of 24.6 cST @ 40 C, so it's an increase from 19 and, again, this needs an almost-closed adjustment valve to give sensible damping. I would expect, from a well designed product, that the recommended fork oil would give correct damping at stock adjuster setting, but it was a pogo stick.

For me, I was able to drop the forks in the triple clamps enough to get the geometry back in order, but now the fork caps are so close to the handlebar, I had to buy special low-profile hex keys to reach the adjusters

Oh well. I wouldn't do it again but the end effect is good. I'm no longer able to out-ride the suspension, it never bottoms out, doesn't chatter etc.

FWIW I swapped the rear at the same time, installed an Ohlins STX46. The shock works perfectly straight from the box, installation was a breeze, sag was correct on stock preload settings, rebound was easy to set, everything just worked.

What year is your Duke please? This questions is in relation to the rear Ohlins that you fitted.
Do you have a part number for the shock, maybe on the box, or only the shock model number?

Would still recommend trying the next thickness of oil in the rebound leg. And yes i totally agree with you that we SHOULD NOT have to fine tune and make amendments to their suspect parts.
I personally am not an Ohlins fan (though previously was from years ago) based on my personal experiences reasonably recently in the last few years with their products and bogus fork spring charts, incorrect information provided by their email nome office support and false information from the supplier in this country, where most of their products are made.
Thanks.

 

[_Big_Mac_]

My Duke 390 is from 2019, the shock is KT 801. Apparently it's not being sold anymore? Ohlins seems to now claim the older KT 301 is good for all model years.
When I was buying the 801, it was said that this is a different unit specifically for the post-facelift models (2017+) and that we should not buy 301 by mistake. Weird. Maybe that's the part about incorrect information you mention

Or maybe they changed something. For example, in this post I'm surprised to see a post-facelift duke with an Ohlins that has the reservoir mounted differently. Maybe that's the difference between 301 and the now-defunct 801? Also apparently 301 is 300mm long and 801 is 304mm long, but the 801 has ride height adjustment of +/- 10mm. I'm confused...

In the other thread, I pasted info from my service manual that the shock should be 304 mm. Maybe you can ask Ohlins about why they claim a 300 mm KT 301 is the right fit...

I might try a heavier fork oil when it's time to do the next change, good point.

 

[DukeofSeven]

Maybe you can ask Ohlins about why they claim a 300 mm KT 301 is the right fit...

Just interjecting for a moment, then I'll get outta the way...

The KT301 uses a linear rate spring, versus the progressive spring of the stock shock, and it doesn't actually static sag correctly if you set it at the same [length] as the stock shock.

Case in point, when I installed it on my 2019, I had to thread the lower eyelet shaft almost all the way in, then eliminate the bulk of the factory preload.
Having done that, it then achieved the correct amount of static and rider sag on the 2019. I weigh about 77 kilos with gear on.

 

[sprockoz]

My Duke 390 is from 2019, the shock is KT 801. Apparently it's not being sold anymore? Ohlins seems to now claim the older KT 301 is good for all model years.
When I was buying the 801, it was said that this is a different unit specifically for the post-facelift models (2017+) and that we should not buy 301 by mistake. Weird. Maybe that's the part about incorrect information you mention

Or maybe they changed something. For example, in this post I'm surprised to see a post-facelift duke with an Ohlins that has the reservoir mounted differently. Maybe that's the difference between 301 and the now-defunct 801? Also apparently 301 is 300mm long and 801 is 304mm long, but the 801 has ride height adjustment of +/- 10mm. I'm confused...

In the other thread, I pasted info from my service manual that the shock should be 304 mm. Maybe you can ask Ohlins about why they claim a 300 mm KT 301 is the right fit...

I might try a heavier fork oil when it's time to do the next change, good point.

Replied to the other burst about about 301 Vs 801 and from the information you kindly provided the shock you have i believe is the correct shock for your bike with a length of 304mm as opposed to 300mm. 4mm there does matter imo opinion as my experience on other bikes is that lowering the rear by 4mm (or does it lower the rear more with aspect ratio of shock stroke to rear wheel travel?) would mean that you would need to lower the front by approximately 8mm to keep the level so to speak. I would guess that Ohlins may not have wanted to carry two shocks for the 390 due to possibly low volume of sales and hence just said that the 300mm shock will fit all.

Had more thoughts on your rebound issue. The other bike that i fitted Andreanis to i had to have revalving on both compression and rebound carried out.
Have you considered having the shim stack adjusted, revalve, the rebound cartridge?
Is a bit more involved that thicker oil but if it is done properly you can then probably run the 5W oil in both legs.

 

[_Big_Mac_]

The shock mounts at an angle, so the 4 mm length distance translates to a smaller ride height difference, but your point about having to lower the fork still stands. It's a pity they got rid of the 801...

I haven't considered having the shim stack adjusted - I would have if I couldn't achieve the results with the thicker oil. Right now I'm happy with how the setup rides and I decided not to chase after perfection. The purpose of the bike is to let me train, and as long as it meets this goal, it's ok. I only changed the suspension because I was bottoming out at the front and the rear was skipping during trail braking, now these problems are solved.

 

[sprockoz]

The shock mounts at an angle, so the 4 mm length distance translates to a smaller ride height difference, but your point about having to lower the fork still stands. It's a pity they got rid of the 801...

I haven't considered having the shim stack adjusted - I would have if I couldn't achieve the results with the thicker oil. Right now I'm happy with how the setup rides and I decided not to chase after perfection. The purpose of the bike is to let me train, and as long as it meets this goal, it's ok. I only changed the suspension because I was bottoming out at the front and the rear was skipping during trail braking, now these problems are solved.

Sounds fair, enjoy.

 

[sprockoz]

Here is a pic of the pipe mod that i done to get the oven away from the shock.

 

[sprockoz]

Yes the shock mounts on an angle but i think that the 4mm length difference is not a smaller than 4mm ride height adjustment but could be nearly 10mm. Both model shocks list a shock stroke of 63mm to achieve a rear wheel travel of 150mm. That says to me, if i understand it correctly, that the shock stroke is very close to 2.5:1 to obtain 150mm of travel from 63mm of shock stroke. 4MM X 2.5= approximately 10mm at the rear which would then mean that you would have to lower the forks by approximately 20mm (from my experience) to return the bike back to level? If you fitted the KT 301. Your 801 is far superior shock to the 301 and i can only again guess that Ohlins only wanted to carry one shock and had found sales of the 801 shock weren't that high as compared to sales of the cheaper, less functions than the cheaper 301 shock.

 

[maxikillen]

Most important first:
I did the 105/kt7 set into 2021 Duke 390

HIGHT/LENGTH: I thought the bike was twitchy as it came, so I had raised the triple-tree to the top of the fork tube. After the install the total length of the forks is about 10mm longer, so i put it back two lines down (looks like stock, is actually +10, which is my preference). It looks like you could drop another 10 and still get a cut-off Allen key in there. If you want to get lower buy clip-ons that rise enough to fit over the bodywork.

NOTES:
Stock was pretty good, but I did get an unwanted bounce when doing stoppies, which IMHO indicates under-damping. If you're watching costs it might do the trick just to swap for heavier oil as a starting point.

Did NOT have to separate the fork legs, nor detach the leg bottom. Save yourself buying the seal driver ($55), fork leg holding tool ($?), Pin wrench ($?), and a bunch of work. Save yourself the bleeder tool ($60) by buying a long m10, thread pitch 1 bolt and some nuts- lock the nuts together with some naked thread (female side) showing, can draw the bleed shaft for like $5.

I'm glad that I read this thread before installing; I got 1 bottle of 5w oil, and 1 of 10w: 5 goes in compression side, 10 goes in rebound. At this time it is already less bouncy than stock and I have the adjuster still all the way out from install (haven't tuned yet)

TOOLS:
extra long m7 Allen (socket is best, as it takes quite a bit of force to loosen) for fork leg bottom bolts

24mm socket or wrench for stock fork caps

25mm socket wrench for new fork caps

17mm open end wrench for the preload adjuster and damping rod top nut

Bolt: m10 by 25 long, pitch 1, hopefully included with kit

m4 Allen, probably cut short, for adjustments once everything is installed

spring compressor, cheap one works ($25)
MOTORCYCLE FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR KIT, UNIVERSAL, VinGence https://a.co/d/hr9lDTA


DISASSEMBLY:
Do what I say, not what I did. Suffice it to say the job took me longer than it should have.

Get the front off the ground. The method of lifting is left as an exorcise for the reader.

Remove the front wheel.

For access to the original fork top caps you may need to remove the handlebar hold down plate

Turn the steering all the way left to hold the forks in place, then loosen (not remove) the fork caps

Loosen the fork pinch bolts and smoothly/gently slide them out, placing them on your nice padded bench in your nice heated/AC'd garage... Hahahaha.

Use the axle half-inserted and the long Allen socket to loosen (not remove) the bottom bolts.

Remove original cartridges and drain the oil. There are multiple ways to do this. It probably makes little difference if you drain out the top or bottom, do whatever is more convenient for you.

ASSEMBLY:
reassemble in the reverse order as disassembly, and in accordance with the Andreani instructions. Note that the rebound leg requires the special bolt. I (and this thread) recommend heavier oil. Also adjust the fork height, while bearing in mind the ~+10mm total length.

 

[Schuitema]

Most important first:
I did the 105/kt7 set into 2021 Duke 390

HIGHT/LENGTH: I thought the bike was twitchy as it came, so I had raised the triple-tree to the top of the fork tube. After the install the total length of the forks is about 10mm longer, so i put it back two lines down (looks like stock, is actually +10, which is my preference). It looks like you could drop another 10 and still get a cut-off Allen key in there. If you want to get lower buy clip-ons that rise enough to fit over the bodywork.

NOTES:
Stock was pretty good, but I did get an unwanted bounce when doing stoppies, which IMHO indicates under-damping. If you're watching costs it might do the trick just to swap for heavier oil as a starting point.

Did NOT have to separate the fork legs, nor detach the leg bottom. Save yourself buying the seal driver ($55), fork leg holding tool ($?), Pin wrench ($?), and a bunch of work. Save yourself the bleeder tool ($60) by buying a long m10, thread pitch 1 bolt and some nuts- lock the nuts together with some naked thread (female side) showing, can draw the bleed shaft for like $5.

I'm glad that I read this thread before installing; I got 1 bottle of 5w oil, and 1 of 10w: 5 goes in compression side, 10 goes in rebound. At this time it is already less bouncy than stock and I have the adjuster still all the way out from install (haven't tuned yet)

TOOLS:
extra long m7 Allen (socket is best, as it takes quite a bit of force to loosen) for fork leg bottom bolts

24mm socket or wrench for stock fork caps

25mm socket wrench for new fork caps

17mm open end wrench for the preload adjuster and damping rod top nut

Bolt: m10 by 25 long, pitch 1, hopefully included with kit

m4 Allen, probably cut short, for adjustments once everything is installed

spring compressor, cheap one works ($25)
MOTORCYCLE FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR KIT, UNIVERSAL, VinGence https://a.co/d/hr9lDTA


DISASSEMBLY:
Do what I say, not what I did. Suffice it to say the job took me longer than it should have.

Get the front off the ground. The method of lifting is left as an exorcise for the reader.

Remove the front wheel.

For access to the original fork top caps you may need to remove the handlebar hold down plate

Turn the steering all the way left to hold the forks in place, then loosen (not remove) the fork caps

Loosen the fork pinch bolts and smoothly/gently slide them out, placing them on your nice padded bench in your nice heated/AC'd garage... Hahahaha.

Use the axle half-inserted and the long Allen socket to loosen (not remove) the bottom bolts.

Remove original cartridges and drain the oil. There are multiple ways to do this: I would recommend turning the fork upside down over a pan, removing the bottom bolt, then removing the "top caps"- actually the whole cartridge, and having everything pour out the tops.

ASSEMBLY:
reassemble in the reverse order as disassembly, and in accordance with the Andreani instructions. Note that the rebound leg requires the special bolt. I (and this thread) recommend heavier oil. Also adjust the fork height, while bearing in mind the ~+10mm total length.

Most important first:
I did the 105/kt7 set into 2021 Duke 390

HIGHT/LENGTH: I thought the bike was twitchy as it came, so I had raised the triple-tree to the top of the fork tube. After the install the total length of the forks is about 10mm longer, so i put it back two lines down (looks like stock, is actually +10, which is my preference). It looks like you could drop another 10 and still get a cut-off Allen key in there. If you want to get lower buy clip-ons that rise enough to fit over the bodywork.

NOTES:
Stock was pretty good, but I did get an unwanted bounce when doing stoppies, which IMHO indicates under-damping. If you're watching costs it might do the trick just to swap for heavier oil as a starting point.

Did NOT have to separate the fork legs, nor detach the leg bottom. Save yourself buying the seal driver ($55), fork leg holding tool ($?), Pin wrench ($?), and a bunch of work. Save yourself the bleeder tool ($60) by buying a long m10, thread pitch 1 bolt and some nuts- lock the nuts together with some naked thread (female side) showing, can draw the bleed shaft for like $5.

I'm glad that I read this thread before installing; I got 1 bottle of 5w oil, and 1 of 10w: 5 goes in compression side, 10 goes in rebound. At this time it is already less bouncy than stock and I have the adjuster still all the way out from install (haven't tuned yet)

TOOLS:
extra long m7 Allen (socket is best, as it takes quite a bit of force to loosen) for fork leg bottom bolts

24mm socket or wrench for stock fork caps

25mm socket wrench for new fork caps

17mm open end wrench for the preload adjuster and damping rod top nut

Bolt: m10 by 25 long, pitch 1, hopefully included with kit

m4 Allen, probably cut short, for adjustments once everything is installed

spring compressor, cheap one works ($25)
MOTORCYCLE FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR KIT, UNIVERSAL, VinGence https://a.co/d/hr9lDTA


DISASSEMBLY:
Do what I say, not what I did. Suffice it to say the job took me longer than it should have.

Get the front off the ground. The method of lifting is left as an exorcise for the reader.

Remove the front wheel.

For access to the original fork top caps you may need to remove the handlebar hold down plate

Turn the steering all the way left to hold the forks in place, then loosen (not remove) the fork caps

Loosen the fork pinch bolts and smoothly/gently slide them out, placing them on your nice padded bench in your nice heated/AC'd garage... Hahahaha.

Use the axle half-inserted and the long Allen socket to loosen (not remove) the bottom bolts.

Remove original cartridges and drain the oil. There are multiple ways to do this: I would recommend turning the fork upside down over a pan, removing the bottom bolt, then removing the "top caps"- actually the whole cartridge, and having everything pour out the tops.

ASSEMBLY:
reassemble in the reverse order as disassembly, and in accordance with the Andreani instructions. Note that the rebound leg requires the special bolt. I (and this thread) recommend heavier oil. Also adjust the fork height, while bearing in mind the ~+10mm total length.

Greetings. I have read over in detail this and the older thread. I think I am good to go, except when you say we need a special bolt “Bolt: m10 by 25 long, pitch 1, hopefully included with kit” and then show a picture of the new cartridge bottoms with what appears to be two different bolts that are NOT a reuse of the OEM bolts (which have washers) that are used to attach/seal the cartridge to the tubes, this is where I am totally confused. You then confuse even more by stating the special bolt is only needed on one side. Kindly explain.

Also if I understand you, you are using the long bolt to attach to the cartridge threaded top via a nut in between the bolt and rod and then flanking two more nuts to keep it all together - for the singular purpose of allowing you to have something to grab onto as you bleed the carfridge. Correct?

Now that you have had time to adjust the new setup, do you have any additional feedback or tips?

thank you kindly!

Jim

 

[maxikillen]

I love how they look, that they're adjustable, and I love up-spec-ing a hot-rod.
I struggled with this install, i hope my post here helps people out, it really doesn't need to be that hard.

Good job with the sharp eyes. Sorry for any confusion, the post got long and i truncated some. Yes the 10x25x1 is actually one of the bolts shown in the cartridge end. For some reason they have the compression leg use the OEM bolt, and rebound a different one. My guess is that the rebound leg has finer threads for more holding strength... I just wish they remembered to include the bolt.
I did re-use the OEM washers (which are nice rubberized ones), they're just not on in that picture.

Your description of the use of the long bolt is spot on. I tried something else which didn't work, the bolt-with-nuts-on did... Of course you can buy the "cartridge bleed tool" if you like, you just don't have to. You have to lift the cartridge hydraulic shaft up while pressing the spring down... This bolt tool is for holding on to the center shaft.

After riding some with them i am pleased. Sag was good out the box (I weigh 140lbs, but they ask your weight when you buy them right?).
Current settings:
Preload all the way out (as it should be if the springs are spot on)
Compression all the way out
Rebound about 1 turn out from totally tight, 10w Motul oil. The whole adjustment range is 2.5 or 3 turns, if memory serves.

The only sad part of this is seeing the original cartridges become pointless; that beautiful machine work made obsolete.

 

[Schuitema]

I love how they look, that they're adjustable, and I love up-spec-ing a hot-rod.
I struggled with this install, i hope my post here helps people out, it really doesn't need to be that hard.

Good job with the sharp eyes. Sorry for any confusion, the post got long and i truncated some. Yes the 10x25x1 is actually one of the bolts shown in the cartridge end. For some reason they have the compression leg use the OEM bolt, and rebound a different one. My guess is that the rebound leg has finer threads for more holding strength... I just wish they remembered to include the bolt.
I did re-use the OEM washers (which are nice rubberized ones), they're just not on in that picture.

Your description of the use of the long bolt is spot on. I tried something else which didn't work, the bolt-with-nuts-on did... Of course you can buy the "cartridge bleed tool" if you like, you just don't have to. You have to lift the cartridge hydraulic shaft up while pressing the spring down... This bolt tool is for holding on to the center shaft.

After riding some with them i am pleased. Sag was good out the box (I weigh 140lbs, but they ask your weight when you buy them right?).
Current settings:
Preload all the way out (as it should be if the springs are spot on)
Compression all the way out
Rebound about 1 turn out from totally tight, 10w Motul oil. The whole adjustment range is 2.5 or 3 turns, if memory serves.

The only sad part of this is seeing the original cartridges become pointless; that beautiful machine work made obsolete.

Thanks for the response! It seems you and I have similar objectives - turn the little “fun-machine-that-could” into something even more special as we upgrade what was less than stellar.

In my case, I am 6’4” and weigh 230lbs when riding with full gear (which I always do). I remain amazed how this bike, which I bought solely for the purpose of practicing low speed drills and associated maneuvers turned out to be a keeper and better still - worth investing in.

I am in Florida and found the Andreani solution from Rottweiler Performance. They did right by me on my other current bike, a KTM 1290 SDGT. I am enclosing photos of the box label for comparison to yours. It appears we received a different part from each other as the OEM bottom mounting bolts fit both my new cartridges! So I do not have that to contend with that issue. As an FYI, the caps on mine are labeled as we would expect with an “R” and a “C”. So that issue must be that you got a different “kit” or they updated it recently or I received two of the same internals as to dampener or they just put the wrong bottom on one of yours. This is good info for those who wish to do this upgrade!

I see you have the final install setup with what appears to be stock triple-clamp height with precisely two grooves showing. I assume a change in height/geometry was no issue for you? Have you replaced the shock? I ordered a HyperPRO shock for my weight. It will not arrive for two weeks, but once that is installed, I will have everything in position to determine if I need to account for the 10mm of increased length as afforded by the Andreani cartridges.

Thanks again friend, and safe and enjoyable riding!

 

[Schuitema]

Thanks for the response! It seems you and I have similar objectives - turn the little “fun-machine-that-could” into something even more special as we upgrade what was less than stellar.

In my case, I am 6’4” and weigh 230lbs when riding with full gear (which I always do). I remain amazed how this bike, which I bought solely for the purpose of practicing low speed drills and associated maneuvers turned out to be a keeper and better still - worth investing in.

I am in Florida and found the Andreani solution from Rottweiler Performance. They did right by me on my other current bike, a KTM 1290 SDGT. I am enclosing photos of the box label for comparison to yours. It appears we received a different part from each other as the OEM bottom mounting bolts fit both my new cartridges! So I do not have that to contend with that issue. As an FYI, the caps on mine are labeled as we would expect with an “R” and a “C”. So that issue must be that you got a different “kit” or they updated it recently or I received two of the same internals as to dampener or they just put the wrong bottom on one of yours. This is good info for those who wish to do this upgrade!

I see you have the final install setup with what appears to be stock triple-clamp height with precisely two grooves showing. I assume a change in height/geometry was no issue for you? Have you replaced the shock? I ordered a HyperPRO shock for my weight. It will not arrive for two weeks, but once that is installed, I will have everything in position to determine if I need to account for the 10mm of increased length as afforded by the Andreani cartridges.

Thanks again friend, and safe and enjoyable riding!

BTW, I discovered an excellent seller on eBay for three items you might want to pickup in order to make any front suspension work go smoother. I ordered for both my 390Duke (43mm) and GT (48mm). Here is the currently available item link - gills_industries on eBay

finally, I concur with other posts on this forum, if you acquire cheap devices to help you gauge the amount of oil you need to install and, to assist in mounting the spring via slight compression it all works out effortlessly. $30 on Amazon here is money well spent.

Thanks for the response! It seems you and I have similar objectives - turn the little “fun-machine-that-could” into something even more special as we upgrade what was less than stellar.

In my case, I am 6’4” and weigh 230lbs when riding with full gear (which I always do). I remain amazed how this bike, which I bought solely for the purpose of practicing low speed drills and associated maneuvers turned out to be a keeper and better still - worth investing in.

I am in Florida and found the Andreani solution from Rottweiler Performance. They did right by me on my other current bike, a KTM 1290 SDGT. I am enclosing photos of the box label for comparison to yours. It appears we received a different part from each other as the OEM bottom mounting bolts fit both my new cartridges! So I do not have that to contend with that issue. As an FYI, the caps on mine are labeled as we would expect with an “R” and a “C”. So that issue must be that you got a different “kit” or they updated it recently or I received two of the same internals as to dampener or they just put the wrong bottom on one of yours. This is good info for those who wish to do this upgrade!

I see you have the final install setup with what appears to be stock triple-clamp height with precisely two grooves showing. I assume a change in height/geometry was no issue for you? Have you replaced the shock? I ordered a HyperPRO shock for my weight. It will not arrive for two weeks, but once that is installed, I will have everything in position to determine if I need to account for the 10mm of increased length as afforded by the Andreani cartridges.

Thanks again friend, and safe and enjoyable riding!

BTW, I discovered an excellent seller on eBay for three items you might want to pickup in order to make any front suspension work go smoother. I ordered for both my 390Duke (43mm) and GT (48mm). Here is the currently available item link - gills_industries on eBay

finally, I concur with other posts on this forum, if you acquire cheap devices to help you gauge the amount of oil you need to install and, to assist in mounting the spring via slight compression it all works out effortlessly. $30 on Amazon here is money well spent.

Current links -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKSKHFLH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

ALPHA MOTO Professional Motorcycle Fork Suspension Oil Level Measurement Gauge Tool Syringe Capacity 60ml Works for Motorcycle MTB Mountain Bike Harley Davidson

Buy ALPHA MOTO Professional Motorcycle Fork Suspension Oil Level Measurement Gauge Tool Syringe Capacity 60ml Works for Motorcycle MTB Mountain Bike Harley Davidson at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!

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