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I have been thinking about getting a piggyback ecu for my 2020 Duke 390 because of the jerky engine at low rpm, and a lot of people say that it has helped a lot with that.
I am not sure if I should get a booster plug, rapid bike easy/evo, powertronic, coober etc. I currently run the bike with an Akrapovic exhaust without a DB-killer, and I have been tempted to buy some other modifications but im not sure what would go best with what and therefore i am unsure what i should choose.
Anyone have any ideas or experiences?
 

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There's a guy that will post on here shortly saying, "You don't need an ECU, change the gearing!". With that being said I would go with powertronics. I have a Power Commander V and looked at the powertronics software and love it.
 

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It depends a little.
All the piggybacks do basically the same BUT:

Coober (Europe) is a non-customer adjustable unit but only 1 that will take over the warranty when installed.
PowerTRONICS (India) is a fully customer adjustable unit in fuel and ignition and offers an up-shift quick shifter.
RB (USA) EVO = only fuel regulating but with a claimed learning capability for added modifications, also QS capable.
RB (USA) Seasy kits are no longer found on the US website, discontinued?
Booster Plug (Danish) seems to work (if the temperature sensor is placed in a favourable position but ALL it does is fool the OEM ECU in thinking that the ambient temperature is a couple of degrees cooler than actually is what makes the OEM ECU adjust the amount of fuel to be injected. (works but questionable pricing).

I hope this makes your choice somewhat easier.

You may also look at Bazzaz, EJK, Athena and probably even more.

And yes, if you are not that accustomed to high revving bikes and don't shift down when needed, changing gearing will help as weel.
 

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I was looking at the aracer mini as its a complete new ecu and not a piggy back that can be adjusted to suit new mods etc. I did ask on here about them but no feedback so I only have YouTube video to go off
 

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I've installed Coober recently. The installation was straightforward conceptually, but required dexterity to get to all the plugs and connectors.

It improved the low speed behavior tremendously, it's like a different bike.

However, then I took the bike for a high speed run and when I was riding wide open on a climbing stretch of a highway, in 6th gear, the bike lost power, the temp gauge shot up and I had to limp to the city. When I stopped, clutch in, the bike stalled and failed to start again. All signs point to an overheat. Possibly the dreaded head gasket blowout the RC390 forums talk about.

Coober claims it's not the fault of the ECU but rather of the Duke itself and that I should have used Engine Ice if I were intending to do max power runs. What I'm seeing is, apparently, the stock ECU's self-protection mechanism that kicks in when it gets too hot. They refuse to take the unit back for a refund, tho they did offer to inspect it (apparently, it stores the last 15 minutes in data logs) to ensure it was not faulty.

The bike is on warranty, it's being looked at by the dealer, I don't know yet what broke. I've disconnected Coober and brought it back to stock before getting it towed.

So, mixed feelings. 390s do run hot and the guys that race the RCs have overheating problems even in stock configurations, so Coober might be right. But it's also possible the unit does cross some thermal limits, which would make it unsafe to use. Not sure what to do now, once I get the bike fixed. Fill it with Engine Ice and run with Coober? Sell the ECU and run stock? Sell the bike and get something that doesn't have overheating issues? ;) For the time being, I think I'd rather had spent the money on RBE or Booster Plug - things that give more fuel but don't aim to increase the power (and thus thermal load).

Anyone else have experience with Coober?
 

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The Rapid Bike Easy is made in Italy and Covid slowed down and probably even stopped production. I got the last one in stock at the time a couple of months ago. It has reduced the jerkiness by about 80% and was an easy install. I didn't need adjustability as I don't plan any big mods. The other fix that I haven't tried is to go from a 45 tooth down to a 43 tooth rear sprocket. This has the advantage of lengthening out 1st and 2nd gear in addition to reportedly getting rid of the jerkiness at low speeds. There are folks who state the sprocket change didn't help and also those same problems with boxes.
 

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The other fix that I haven't tried is to go from a 45 tooth down to a 43 tooth rear sprocket. This has the advantage of lengthening out 1st and 2nd gear in addition to reportedly getting rid of the jerkiness at low speeds. There are folks who state the sprocket change didn't help and also those same problems with boxes.
It also has the disadvantage of reducing your acceleration and making 6th gear on less effective for overtaking and going up inclines.
 

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I've installed Coober recently. The installation was straightforward conceptually, but required dexterity to get to all the plugs and connectors.

It improved the low speed behavior tremendously, it's like a different bike.

However, then I took the bike for a high speed run and when I was riding wide open on a climbing stretch of a highway, in 6th gear, the bike lost power, the temp gauge shot up and I had to limp to the city. When I stopped, clutch in, the bike stalled and failed to start again. All signs point to an overheat. Possibly the dreaded head gasket blowout the RC390 forums talk about.

Coober claims it's not the fault of the ECU but rather of the Duke itself and that I should have used Engine Ice if I were intending to do max power runs. What I'm seeing is, apparently, the stock ECU's self-protection mechanism that kicks in when it gets too hot. They refuse to take the unit back for a refund, tho they did offer to inspect it (apparently, it stores the last 15 minutes in data logs) to ensure it was not faulty.

The bike is on warranty, it's being looked at by the dealer, I don't know yet what broke. I've disconnected Coober and brought it back to stock before getting it towed.

So, mixed feelings. 390s do run hot and the guys that race the RCs have overheating problems even in stock configurations, so Coober might be right. But it's also possible the unit does cross some thermal limits, which would make it unsafe to use. Not sure what to do now, once I get the bike fixed. Fill it with Engine Ice and run with Coober? Sell the ECU and run stock? Sell the bike and get something that doesn't have overheating issues? ;) For the time being, I think I'd rather had spent the money on RBE or Booster Plug - things that give more fuel but don't aim to increase the power (and thus thermal load).

Anyone else have experience with Coober?
Wow, that's something I would not have expected from Coober.
And those comments are from Coober Austria, I mean them advising to use EI?
 

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Wow, that's something I would not have expected from Coober.
And those comments are from Coober Austria, I mean them advising to use EI?
I've been mailing back and forth with [email protected] so I suppose it's Coober Austria. FWIW, they're quick to reply.

Some quotes from our conversation:
Does not need to be faulty, it looks like cooling issue. Most people who drive a lot full gas use aftermarket cooling liquid.
We have customers in US who drive long roads full speed with 390 and our ecu, they all use aftermarket cooling liquid. It is a must on this engine.
390/401 in 6th gear full speed is not going to work on stock ecu and not with coober for long time, simply because the stock ecu would not allow it.
They haven't mentioned EI by name, just "aftermarket cooling liquid".
When the bike broke, the ambient temperature was around 20 C (68 F), I was driving up a slight incline on a highway and pinning it at 6th gear for around 30 seconds.
 

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I just pulled the trigger on Rapid Bike Easy on my 2017 Duke, Oh God what a difference. 90% of low rpm jerking just gone, finally slow traffic speeds aren't a pain, you can now pick up even from 2000rpm on 3th gear no problem. Engine breaking was reduced - had to adjust my riding style. Overall low rpm (up to 5000) bike feels moar "torquey" - no more bogging or stalling. Worth every $ I had to pay.

So far no engine checks after around 100km - I'm using stock 5 , +2 values but my only mods are Akra slip-on with DB killer still inside (no plans on modding any further).
 

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I just pulled the trigger on Rapid Bike Easy, Oh God what a difference. 90% of low rpm jerking just gone, finally slow traffic speeds aren't a pain, you can now pick up even from 2000rpm on 3th gear no problem. Engine breaking was reduced - had to adjust my riding style. Overall low rpm (up to 5000) bike feels moar "torquey" - no more bogging or stalling. Worth every $ I had to pay.

So far no engine checks after around 100km - I'm using stock 5 , +2 values but my only mods are Akra slip-on with DB killer still inside (no plans on modding any further).
Good to hear. Ordered mine on the 19th of May sent to Australia but still waiting... Really want on by next weekend as I have a big ride coming up with quite a lot of off road. I'm completely stock so from what I've read, having the second value at 2 will probably throw an error.
 

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I just pulled the trigger on Rapid Bike Easy on my 2017 Duke, Oh God what a difference. 90% of low rpm jerking just gone, finally slow traffic speeds aren't a pain, you can now pick up even from 2000rpm on 3th gear no problem. Engine breaking was reduced - had to adjust my riding style.

I'm installing mine tomorrow. Where on your bike did you site the control box? A quick look suggested the only place might be under the pillion seat?
 

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Yeah, it's under the pilion seat
 

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For what it's worth, my broken down Duke got repaired under warranty, the valve clearance reduced itself to zero somehow, no other damages. The dealer has never seen that before but KTM central told them it might happen (rarely) if the bike is pushed too hard while not yet fully broken in. Mine has 2500 km, so not much over the mandatory 1000 km break-in period.

I still don't know whether that was just the Duke's inherent reliability (or lack thereof), a random failure in my particular bike, or Coober making it work too hard.

Anyways, I'm considering whether to keep riding with Coober or sell it and get something else. If anyone in Europe would like to buy mine, at a 30% discount compared to new, that would make the decision easier ;)
 

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He Big_Mac,

Good to hear the repair was done under warranty.
What would interest me is:
  • was it only 1 valve of which the clearance went off?
  • was it (an) in- or outlet valve(s)?
  • was there any mentioning on the oil, quality or blockage to the top?
  • what was damaged, the camshaft, the valve stem?

I find it hard to believe that the Coober unit caused this issue.

Where there any other parts damaged as the cam-chain tensioner or chain itself?

Anyway great you are back on the road again.

For what it's worth, my broken down Duke got repaired under warranty, the valve clearance reduced itself to zero somehow, no other damages. The dealer has never seen that before but KTM central told them it might happen (rarely) if the bike is pushed too hard while not yet fully broken in. Mine has 2500 km, so not much over the mandatory 1000 km break-in period.

I still don't know whether that was just the Duke's inherent reliability (or lack thereof), a random failure in my particular bike, or Coober making it work too hard.

Anyways, I'm considering whether to keep riding with Coober or sell it and get something else. If anyone in Europe would like to buy mine, at a 30% discount compared to new, that would make the decision easier ;)
 
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