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Discussion Starter #1
I know a lot of you guys recommend RBE for our Dukes and im sure they are great!

I just recently received my Booster Plug from

https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/frontpage.html

Mannnnnn it totally transforms the bike!

no more lurching at low speed/gear and it feels like the bike generally pulls harder. I am loving it and I can personally recommend yall give it a look. It is one of the cheaper options out there and the owner wrote a mini book on fuel injection that waits until the end to turn into an advertisement for the BoosterPlug. Its free for download off the website. Its taught me somethings. Also worth the look and time to read.

I have NO affiliation with this company - just a happy customer.

Finally I will say I mistakenly bought the wrong booster plug off a forum member here back when I first got my 2018 Duke.

I DO have a PRE 2017 Booster Plug for sale if anyone is interested. It would save you some coin off the advertised price.
 

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They both (BP and RBE) effectively do the same thing.
They trick the ECU into delivering more fuel. I prefer the way the RBE does it, which is by interrupting the data from the lambda probe in the exhaust and telling the ECU that the mixture is too lean.
Telling the ECU that the ambient air is colder, is more likely to cause over fuelling as it is likely to trigger the cold start enrichment program.
Where the RBE only makes the fuelling about 10% richer and is unaffected by changes in outside air temperatures
 

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After reading up on the various systems out there I think the RB does a little more than bluntly increases the fuel injected by roughly 10%. This is effectively what the BP does by fooling the ECU that the outside temperature is an x degrees lower than it actually is (preventing you have put the temperature sensor of the BP in a correct position).
The RB measures various parameters and recalculates the values the Lambda sensor sends to the ECU and in this way varies the added amount of fuel depending on the required performance. The RB is a far more sophisticated device than the BP that does but one thing, measuring the ambient temperature and lowering this by a fixed amount of degrees. RB also claims it alters the fuel addition within the closed-loop, this is something other such units do not do. RB offers (I think) 3 different units that all basically do the same but have specific add-ons and accompanying pricing. Functionality-wise (to me) you can not compare the BP to the RB (hence the difference in price). The RB units will also be far safer than the BP as these consider various input parameters and adjust the fueling accordingly while the BP ONLY fools the ECU by lowering the ambient temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After reading up on the various systems out there I think the RB does a little more than bluntly increases the fuel injected by roughly 10%. This is effectively what the BP does by fooling the ECU that the outside temperature is an x degrees lower than it actually is (preventing you have put the temperature sensor of the BP in a correct position).
The RB measures various parameters and recalculates the values the Lambda sensor sends to the ECU and in this way varies the added amount of fuel depending on the required performance. The RB is a far more sophisticated device than the BP that does but one thing, measuring the ambient temperature and lowering this by a fixed amount of degrees. RB also claims it alters the fuel addition within the closed-loop, this is something other such units do not do. RB offers (I think) 3 different units that all basically do the same but have specific add-ons and accompanying pricing. Functionality-wise (to me) you can not compare the BP to the RB (hence the difference in price). The RB units will also be far safer than the BP as these consider various input parameters and adjust the fueling accordingly while the BP ONLY fools the ECU by lowering the ambient temperature.
I wholeheartedly disagree with you. There is no reason to mess with the Lambda sensor / closed loop operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have you read this: https://www.rapidbike.com/en/rapid-bike/technology/

It explains some of the limitations of the stock ecu and mapping
I have and I guess we both have to admit that both my quote and your link boil down to not much more then angled marketing hype. It just a matter of who you believe and what you want to buy at that point.

RBE is GREAt I am sure - I just dont agree with people dismissing the BP.
 

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RBE is GREAt I am sure - I just dont agree with people dismissing the BP.

True! The BP and RBE will do much the same thing.... The BP is small and very easy to hide... however the BP has zero adjustability compared to the much larger RBE. Over here the BP is "expensive" for what is really inside the module. The RBE is more expensive but you get a little more "substance" and adjustability. In the end both devices do what they say to a certain degree. (I used a BP on my Ducati XDS and had an issue with the locked Bosch ECU - I then bought a RB Evo - roughly 6X the price of the BP.... never worked well on the Ducati...)
 

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I have and I guess we both have to admit that both my quote and your link boil down to not much more then angled marketing hype. It just a matter of who you believe and what you want to buy at that point.



RBE is GREAt I am sure - I just dont agree with people dismissing the BP.


The BP is defo marketing hype. Personally I won’t be buying either or any tuning module, because I’d rather spend the money on upgrading me as a rider

My issue with the BP comes from my memories of the car “tuning” boxes being sold for £50ish that were all the rage a few years ago claiming power increases etc which were just a resistor in a box. No doubt, the BP is a step up from that with the ambient temperature sensor, but in my eyes, all it does is make that resistor a variable potentiometer instead (this is even mentioned on their own website), which probably explains the size of the module lol

The fact that BP has the quote below on their website has made me write them off as a reputable company with a decent product, and I wouldn’t even consider giving them any money

With the BoosterPlug you will have a better solution than the complicated and expensive Power Commander that is almost impossible to set up correctly.
What an absolute load of bollocks to compare their resistor to a renowned, legitimate, remappable piggyback ECU


The RB easy isn’t massively complex by the looks of it. The two trim adjusters give it an element of “resistor” type behaviour, but because the lambda signal is oscillating, it requires more processing. They’re enriching fuelling by altering something that measures the air fuel ratio directly, instead of messing with temperature sensor.

Anyway, if I was to get a tuning product it would be to gain power via remapping with supporting mods, and the choice would be Between power commander, powertronic, rapidbike evo.

I think it says a lot that Boosterplug don’t have any comparable products to the above
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The BP is defo marketing hype. Personally I won’t be buying either or any tuning module, because I’d rather spend the money on upgrading me as a rider

My issue with the BP comes from my memories of the car “tuning” boxes being sold for £50ish that were all the rage a few years ago claiming power increases etc which were just a resistor in a box. No doubt, the BP is a step up from that with the ambient temperature sensor, but in my eyes, all it does is make that resistor a variable potentiometer instead (this is even mentioned on their own website), which probably explains the size of the module lol

The fact that BP has the quote below on their website has made me write them off as a reputable company with a decent product, and I wouldn’t even consider giving them any money



What an absolute load of bollocks to compare their resistor to a renowned, legitimate, remappable piggyback ECU


The RB easy isn’t massively complex by the looks of it. The two trim adjusters give it an element of “resistor” type behaviour, but because the lambda signal is oscillating, it requires more processing. They’re enriching fuelling by altering something that measures the air fuel ratio directly, instead of messing with temperature sensor.

Anyway, if I was to get a tuning product it would be to gain power via remapping with supporting mods, and the choice would be Between power commander, powertronic, rapidbike evo.

I think it says a lot that Boosterplug don’t have any comparable products to the above
I can say for 100% BP never claims HP gains. I would venture to say RBE doesn't make this claim either. You aren't comparing apples to apples as far as I can see.

Trying to tune your bike (something I have 0 interest in) vs. just trying to compensate for an OEM lean condition and remove the low speed shudder (something I am very interested in) are very different.

If I could go in with a screwdriver and manually adjust my AFR to make it richer with out any product at all I would. Short of that BP has more than met my need.

thank you for your opinion.
 

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If you fit a booster plug are you then changing the air filter and opening up the to of the air box or just leaving those parts as standard?
 

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I left mine as was, didn't see the point to try to squeeze a few hp out of the bike, it's never going to be the fastest bike on the road anyway ;)
But you could do that probably, I don't see any problem apart form that, at least over here (Norway), all mods influencing power output automatically deleted the warranty on the bike..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you fit a booster plug are you then changing the air filter and opening up the to of the air box or just leaving those parts as standard?
Standard. BP isnt meant to replace a power commander set up where you are trying to get more HP out the bike - it is meant to smooth out the low range choppiness. As other have said - it is a pretty simple device.
 

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I wasted thinking about more power, how this works is to make the bike think it’s colder then it actually is therefore it adds more fuel at low revs basically it thinks it not up to temp yet a bit like having the choke still on. If the engine is up to temp and you put more fuel in it will produce more carbon deposits so I was just thinking would it not need more air to help rectify this problem?
Thanks
 

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As I understand it, but happy to be corrected...
The BP has a temp probe attached to it which is measuring outside air temp and making the ECU think the air outside is colder, and therefore denser than in reality.
Denser air means more oxygen available and therefore more fuel needed to maintain the target ratio. The result is a mixture richer than the ECU intended, and smoother running at small throttle openings.
There are other sensors that report engine and coolant temperature to the ECU, so it's not trying to make the engine appear cooler, just the outside air.

If you open the airbox, then perhaps the BP is enough to prevent lean running when the throttle is wide open, but that's not the intended use and I wouldn't rely on it to make that sort of correction. With small throttle openings I would imagine the engine can get all the air it needs with a standard airbox.

As already mention in the thread somewhere I think, the AFR that emissions standards require is very lean. I don't think the extra fuel from the BP is likely to cause carbon build up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
As I understand it, but happy to be corrected...
The BP has a temp probe attached to it which is measuring outside air temp and making the ECU think the air outside is colder, and therefore denser than in reality.
Denser air means more oxygen available and therefore more fuel needed to maintain the target ratio. The result is a mixture richer than the ECU intended, and smoother running at small throttle openings.
There are other sensors that report engine and coolant temperature to the ECU, so it's not trying to make the engine appear cooler, just the outside air.

If you open the airbox, then perhaps the BP is enough to prevent lean running when the throttle is wide open, but that's not the intended use and I wouldn't rely on it to make that sort of correction. With small throttle openings I would imagine the engine can get all the air it needs with a standard airbox.

As already mention in the thread somewhere I think, the AFR that emissions standards require is very lean. I don't think the extra fuel from the BP is likely to cause carbon build up.
This. Exactly This. Well said!
 

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As I understand it, but happy to be corrected...
The BP has a temp probe attached to it which is measuring outside air temp and making the ECU think the air outside is colder, and therefore denser than in reality.
Denser air means more oxygen available and therefore more fuel needed to maintain the target ratio. The result is a mixture richer than the ECU intended, and smoother running at small throttle openings.
There are other sensors that report engine and coolant temperature to the ECU, so it's not trying to make the engine appear cooler, just the outside air.

If you open the airbox, then perhaps the BP is enough to prevent lean running when the throttle is wide open, but that's not the intended use and I wouldn't rely on it to make that sort of correction. With small throttle openings I would imagine the engine can get all the air it needs with a standard airbox.

As already mention in the thread somewhere I think, the AFR that emissions standards require is very lean. I don't think the extra fuel from the BP is likely to cause carbon build up.
I 100% agree that it would be too much. I made a post a while back with some data that I logged and these bikes run lean. I was running a RBE as at the time and since then I have an open air box with a PCV and I have maxed the output of the injector and it is still running at 13.8 AFR wide open. So not only is it too much air, but the injector isn't really sized enough to fully respond to it either. I will say that 13.8 AFR at WOT is still not as bad as factory fueling at WOT.
 

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Well, l fitted the RBE to my 2019 Duke 390 and what l can say is, that

a/ the bike doesn’t feel any faster, but it won’t, RBE doesn’t claim BHP increase.

b/ it’s transformed at low RPM, will drive smoothly down to 2,000 in 1/2/3 without needing the clutch

c/ it uses a little more fuel, down from an indicated 73mpg to around 68mpg
d/ the unit is currently disconnected/module removed as my insurance didn’t want to know the bike with the unit fitted !!

e/ when my insurance is due in March l am going to find a company that will accept the bike with the module installed.
 
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