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1jzsupra,
but yours is a 2016... [right?]
and your IAT is incorporated to the MAP sensor mounted on the throttle body; i.e. GN wire pin 2 of the MAP, component B45 on page 4 of 9 (US) (wiring) of the Repair Manual. I don't have one of those to test.


The TMAP number on a 2019 is 93041085000, and on a 2016 it's 90141071000. They are totally different incarnations (and of cors a different controller), so only someone with a 2016 TMAP could tell you if 'it' registers resistance values comparable to the data I already provided.
Addendum: even tho the 2019 Repair Manual indicates the 2019 TMAP still incorporates a thermister, it does not. I only know that because I tested it, but... funny, the wiring and terminal is still there. :rolleyes:


you alrdy knew that stuff , I'm sure; I'm just throwing it back out there, about the pre/post 2017 differences, in case someone's reading this and they really just need to keep the diffs str8.


And your current fuel injector is 90241023000? $79.28 USD? Oh wow, that's the same number they still use on 2019.


But the top cap that incorporates the fuel nipple is 'clipped' in place, like a Bosch GM injector...


and not all KTM injectors use this same setup; some (a lot) use a capture manifold that's actually 'bolted' in place, with no 'clip groove' to keep pressure form forcing it apart.


Ok, so here's a thot -- why not just inquire with CJWells if he's still got any of the injectors 'he' was selling for this motor. According to their original claims, when he started doing the 2K motor mods, the injector they adopted flowed 20% more, cost the customer about 120, and already included an adapter that made it plug and play (electrically).

[Didn't I read somewhere that CDN Duke bought one of these?]

Is the PCV capable of tweaking a 20% fuel adaptation? Whuddum I saying... oh yeah, it is.;)
 

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Yeah I've been thinking about whether or not it's even worth it. I'm not sure that it would be to any advantage unless I get more air in and to be honest it's been doing great so far without it. The good thing is that in all conditions it is still running a better in terms of fueling than it was with a stock setup. It is crazy how lean these bikes run from the factory.
 

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I only wanted the bike to run smoother at low RPM
The engine power was fine, easily fast enough for me.
I fitted the RBE which alters the fuelling by intercepting data from the exhaust sensor and telling the ECU it’s too lean a mixture.

It seems to work just fine, the bike is much smoother at low RPM and nicer to ride.

I think the RBE module is more than just a resistor, it has a microprocessor and is adjustable, the problem was my insurance classed it as a “tuning box” and wouldn’t cover the bike!!
Even though it doesn’t increase BHP at all.

So l had to disconnect the module however my insurance is due for renewal soon so l will find one that will cover the bike with the module fitted.
 

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I only wanted the bike to run smoother at low RPM
The engine power was fine, easily fast enough for me.
I fitted the RBE which alters the fuelling by intercepting data from the exhaust sensor and telling the ECU it’s too lean a mixture.

It seems to work just fine, the bike is much smoother at low RPM and nicer to ride.

I think the RBE module is more than just a resistor, it has a microprocessor and is adjustable, the problem was my insurance classed it as a “tuning box” and wouldn’t cover the bike!!
Even though it doesn’t increase BHP at all.

So l had to disconnect the module however my insurance is due for renewal soon so l will find one that will cover the bike with the module fitted.
Am I missing something here.... Where do you live that your insurance looks at what you have on the bike to determine whether they will cover you or not? The RBE is like two connectors.... I'd just pull it off, get it "inspected" put it back on. And if anything ever happened you could just remove it again like it was never there.

Also on a side note I have a post on here about the RBE with a little data if you ever get bored and want to look at it.
 

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The problem arises if you have a crash, the bike gets recovered from the roadside without you being able to remove the module.
The insurance assessor looks at the bike, finds the “tuning box”
And cancels your insurance, refusing to pay out due to “undeclared modifications”
 

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Well that was weird.

In case anyone actually read any of the [incessant blathering] I contributed to this thread recently... in regards to the "Dual/Series IAT sensor" slash BP Clone I started experimenting with (just as recently)...

I just finished a week of assessing it in different riding scenarios and I am absolutely content with giving it an oh H***no! But I'll keep the why really simple.

At 90 mph, with the 16x43 gearing [on an otherwise stock 2019 D390], it no longer felt like it wanted to just keep pulling, as it did previous to this weird experiment of mine.

Pardon me for saying so, but that's a pretty good admission of loss of top end power, IMO.
I'm not even interested in trying to explain that to my self.:eek:

So it's OUT.

Now I'll spend another week [on a fresh table clear] to reevaluate my previous stock D390 likes/dislikes.
[wait a minute -- i just remembered -- i don't actually have any D390 dislikes]
 

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What a shame the ECU can’t just be remapped like you can do on most cars.

I know many bike ECU’s are now “tamper proof”
For instance l have been told on many Triumph bikes if you attempt to tamper with the ECU it locks out and the bike won’t run at all, and it can only be reset by a dealer.
 

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My impression is that Euro 4 locked down the ability to remap stock bike ECUs just as it appears to have made baffles non removable. I’ve made no attempt to delve into the legislation to evidence that however.
 

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A little investigating shows that Japanese bikes still run reflashable ECUs. I wonder if that will still apply for Euro 5? KTM, Akrapovic and Triumph being Euro countries are perhaps more likely to feel the need to dot all the i’s and cross all the t’s.
 

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Just had a booster plug installed and it has made riding in a big city (Chiang Mai) much smoother in lower gears at lower speeds. Not noticed any other improvements with it. I think the price is extortionate. Should be half the price it sells for.
 

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Wow!! PT says the 2017-2019 Duke 390 is already over-rich in Open Loop, over 50% throttle, over 7000 rpm.

[Yes, that's the standard Fuel 1 Map1 map for a 2017+, in the pic]



And ya know... that makes a lotta sense, when I consider why my home-made Booster Plug bombed on such a large scale at high rpm/speed.

Keptin, ah think she wuzza drownin'...:eek:
 

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Wow!! PT says the 2017-2019 Duke 390 is already over-rich in Open Loop, over 50% throttle, over 7000 rpm.

[Yes, that's the standard Fuel 1 Map1 map for a 2017+, in the pic]



And ya know... that makes a lotta sense, when I consider why my home-made Booster Plug bombed on such a large scale at high rpm/speed.

Keptin, ah think she wuzza drownin'...:eek:
What was AFR's at in those cells?
 

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What was AFR's at in those cells?
Unknown.
I'm just sorta lickin' at the basic information available to me right now.
But I found everything in that map kindov astounding (and also very different from what you'd find in a pre-2017 D390 map from PT).


The [other] reason I posted it is because the PT map suggests 2017+ fuel is only/maybe 2% lean below 6000 rpm, but only above 70% throttle...


And I was originally interested in the 'BP', for my 2019, if it was gonna add something valuable to my own unique riding style or circumstances...


But you can probably guess now, I don't need it 6-10% richer at low rpms (and 15-20% too fat above 7000) 'if' PT's information is intrinsically accurate for my own circumstances.
I think that's the big question that I haven't yet overcome. Is it?


But let me stop confusing with all the issues, because I don't actually know for certain if this original 2017+ PT map was developed in and for the confines of Bengaluru. As in, 3000 ft elevation, 1015 mb BARO, lower humidity... very different from SW Fl, absolutely.
And I'm not at the point where I'm ready to weld in a wide-band bung just to violate my warranty, I guess I'm actually on a different kinda mission.



So who else's map information can we possibly reference, as a sort of corroboration of what PT is hinting at (about the stock post-2017 D390)?
I'd like to see the PCV 18-023-001 (stock) map, but I can't get my hanz on it unless I also buy the system. See my dilemma? anybody wanna share a screen shot?


Thanks to everybody for all their inputs, by the way.
 

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I guess I'm just trying to figure out how you know you are over fueling if you don't have a way to read air fuel ratio? I don't have a wide band, but I do have a blue tooth adapter, torque pro, and a data logger that will log commanded and current AFR's in real time. All the data I have seen on my 2016 model shows the stock tune to be pretty lean throughout, esp at WOT. It was showing around 14 AFR at WOT, even at over 8000 rpm.... which means it is more than likely crazy lean with like no ignition timing so it doesn't blow up.
 

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I guess I'm just trying to figure out how you know you are over fueling if you don't have a way to read air fuel ratio? I don't have a wide band, but I do have a blue tooth adapter, torque pro, and a data logger that will log commanded and current AFR's in real time. All the data I have seen on my 2016 model shows the stock tune to be pretty lean throughout, esp at WOT. It was showing around 14 AFR at WOT, even at over 8000 rpm.... which means it is more than likely crazy lean with like no ignition timing so it doesn't blow up.
Where do you see the AFR in the TorqueApp?
I have a 2017 Duke and I don't see it anywhere in the logs.
 

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I guess I'm just trying to figure out how you know you are over fueling if you don't have a way to read air fuel ratio?.

And I'm actually agreeing with you about this point, but I was looking for a lotta real knowledge b4 I voted this way or that with my paycheck.


But I will say this: I find myself back in that situation again where I'm trying to rely on a lot of other people's data. And if I attempt to believe the fuel enleanment data in the PT map, beginning at 6500 rpm and above 46% throttle load, they are basically telling me that a 2017-2019 was programmed by Bajaj too rich right outta the factory.


Something I did notice when I was logging [home-made BP] data on my bike was just how sluggish the system was to return to close-loop functioning (from either a quick throttle burst or an extended open loop load). Also curious was the extent of the fuel subtraction that was going on to reestablish closed loop and O2 sensor functioning. My god, it was on the order of between minus 15 and minus 20+ percent (and it would just hang there, for a great deal longer than I have ever witnessed a narrow-band sensor stay stuck without real cause).


In other words, it really was [fill in the phrase here that you think best applies].


The program I was using is called ScanMaster ELM. Are you familiar with it? I wasn't using it from a phone, I was using it from a SSD PC, and it gave me the ability to throw up 6 simultaneous graphs of realtime data in corroboration with each other. I'll see if I can ferret out some stills for you, because the video screen capture software I used just makes really huge files.


Also, I agree with you that the 2016 (and b4), from everything I've been seeing, is a totally different animal. There appears to be an extensive amount of work that was done at the 1st Gen level, but then it sorta looks like things went through some sort of 3-year coasting/corporate hiatus when it came to modding the 2017+ maps. I just feel like there is this huge question mark hanging in the air about what really happened there. I'll reiterate: mine is a 2019, and currently has about 1500 miles.


I'll also hafta re-read this later, to make sure I've actually just made any sense. but I'm running outta weekend time and, believe it or not, I think I'm still going into work for a bit today.
 

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I don't have a wide band...

Here's 2 pictures showing the difference between the stock IAT and my dual/series IAT sensor setup we were originally kidding around about.

You can see there's a 15C difference between the cold engine temp and the dual cold IAT; there's actually a 17C [30.6 F] difference between the single and dual setups, so it's really close to what BP lit was projecting/suggesting was the goal.
 

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