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Discussion Starter #2
Alternatively anyone have the 'rapid bike easy' module? How easy is it to fit and how effective?
 

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It´s pretty old and It´s sold as a lambda sensor modulator with temperature compensation.
If I´m not wrong there is a guy that disassembled it and just found resistors.
I have a Rapid Bike Easy in my bike working very well and I tested it with an oscilloscope to see how it affect the lambda sensor and It appear to be more than just a few resistors but I would have to disassembly it to understand completely but it´s impossible without break it.
It worked very well for my needs improving the low/mid response and make it very pleasant in the city.
Let me know if you want any additional information.
Luis
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is it simple to install? Just one plug into the lambda sensor? Any panels need removing or just the seat? I cannot find instructions online.
 

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The Lambda connectors is ahead of engine and over the radiator. You can access on the left of the bike. Need to cut a few zip ties but it is a simple task.
Luis
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The Lambda connectors is ahead of engine and over the radiator. You can access on the left of the bike. Need to cut a few zip ties but it is a simple task.
Luis
Thanks, so you just remove the seat, feed the cable down towards the engine, connect and away you go? nothing else?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It´s pretty old and It´s sold as a lambda sensor modulator with temperature compensation.
If I´m not wrong there is a guy that disassembled it and just found resistors.
I have a Rapid Bike Easy in my bike working very well and I tested it with an oscilloscope to see how it affect the lambda sensor and It appear to be more than just a few resistors but I would have to disassembly it to understand completely but it´s impossible without break it.
It worked very well for my needs improving the low/mid response and make it very pleasant in the city.
Let me know if you want any additional information.
Luis
Hey just wondering if you have removed your airbox lid as well? If so did you keep the fuel ratio at +2 or did you increase?
Cheers
B
 

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Hey just wondering if you have removed your airbox lid as well? If so did you keep the fuel ratio at +2 or did you increase?
Cheers
B
Yes I did. In fact it is in 2 but closer to 1. If you get too rich when cold after the night it will blink the engine light indicate that it is not trusting in the lambda value so you have to return a little bit.
It was I did.
Luis
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would also be interested to see your findings on how well this works.
Tested this morning, all working fine, nice growl from the engine. Only thing I noticed was a fair bit of smoke out of the exhaust when starting from cold. after a minute or so it had gone. I wonder if the ECU was making it quite rich due to the extra air, until the engine had warmed a little (choke?). Or maybe it was when the rapid bike easy started up that the mixture was correted?

Anyway RBE and taking the airbox cover off works well.
 

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Tested this morning, all working fine, nice growl from the engine. Only thing I noticed was a fair bit of smoke out of the exhaust when starting from cold. after a minute or so it had gone. I wonder if the ECU was making it quite rich due to the extra air, until the engine had warmed a little (choke?). Or maybe it was when the rapid bike easy started up that the mixture was correted?

Anyway RBE and taking the airbox cover off works well.


I imagine the issue is because of the controller. When in "Open loop" the fuel mixture is rich until the system comes into operating temps and then it goes into "Closed Loop", the controller more than likely goes a little more to the rich side to play it say or is still trying to learn the proper fuel fixture. Did you do the 15 min idle relearn?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I imagine the issue is because of the controller. When in "Open loop" the fuel mixture is rich until the system comes into operating temps and then it goes into "Closed Loop", the controller more than likely goes a little more to the rich side to play it say or is still trying to learn the proper fuel fixture. Did you do the 15 min idle relearn?
What is the 15min idle relearn? is that necessary for the rapid bike easy? surely only for the EVO?
 

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I imagine the issue is because of the controller. When in "Open loop" the fuel mixture is rich until the system comes into operating temps and then it goes into "Closed Loop", the controller more than likely goes a little more to the rich side to play it say or is still trying to learn the proper fuel fixture. Did you do the 15 min idle relearn?
What is the 15min idle relearn? is that necessary for the rapid bike easy? surely only for the EVO?
and one more question, is it worth replacing the air filter with a high flo one?
The 15 min idle relearn is when you pull the fuse to the ecu causing it to reset (you should leave it unplugged long enough to allow for that so I would say a couple of mins. Should do it) and then you reinstall the fuse and run the bike at idle. This allows the ecu to relearn how the bike idles and make adjustments to how it runs (to help smooth out operation). Ideally this should be done after adding any mods or even after making valve adjustments to allow the ecu account/make what ever adjustments are needed (within it's basic functions that is).

As for the filter I would say yes, in fact most people end up with a tuner because they want to run a filter with an open air box for more power and better sound quality. I opted for a simple k&n drop in and will be getting a different air box lid once I get a way of controlled AFRs.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The 15 min idle relearn is when you pull the fuse to the ecu causing it to reset (you should leave it unplugged long enough to allow for that so I would say a couple of mins. Should do it) and then you reinstall the fuse and run the bike at idle. This allows the ecu to relearn how the bike idles and make adjustments to how it runs (to help smooth out operation). Ideally this should be done after adding any mods or even after making valve adjustments to allow the ecu account/make what ever adjustments are needed (within it's basic functions that is).

As for the filter I would say yes, in fact most people end up with a tuner because they want to run a filter with an open air box for more power and better sound quality. I opted for a simple k&n drop in and will be getting a different air box lid once I get a way of controlled AFRs.
Do you have to pull the fuse? the guide I read on here just says to let the bike idle for 15 mins, no mention of pulling the fuse...
 

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The 15 min idle relearn is when you pull the fuse to the ecu causing it to reset (you should leave it unplugged long enough to allow for that so I would say a couple of mins. Should do it) and then you reinstall the fuse and run the bike at idle. This allows the ecu to relearn how the bike idles and make adjustments to how it runs (to help smooth out operation). Ideally this should be done after adding any mods or even after making valve adjustments to allow the ecu account/make what ever adjustments are needed (within it's basic functions that is).

As for the filter I would say yes, in fact most people end up with a tuner because they want to run a filter with an open air box for more power and better sound quality. I opted for a simple k&n drop in and will be getting a different air box lid once I get a way of controlled AFRs.
Do you have to pull the fuse? the guide I read on here just says to let the bike idle for 15 mins, no mention of pulling the fuse...
Yes , in order to reset the Ecu you need to pull the fuse.
 
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