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Just a thought, shouldn't that be mounted near or even in the air box? Air temps near the fairing could be colder due to the colder air being measured from outside of the bike. My intake air temps are usually 100* or high, I could see how this could change the way this unit works.
I have had several conversations with them, bottom line is they recommend to install in ambient air with good airflow around the sensor, and as far away from engine/radiator as possible.
I guess that they have calibrated the BP to compensate for the dif in ambient to airbox air temp.
 

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I putt mine BP on the leftside on the airfilterhousing and lead the airtemp sensor under my withe frame and fixt it under the cover of the back.
So the riding wind is going between the frame and bodypart and you dont see the sensor.

It still working fine with no powerloss or stalls whatso ever..... i have drivin 2500 kms now and still happy with the BP
 

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Woohoo my obd bluetooth reader is here


I ordered a bosch 4 wire "TMAP" connector. Couldn't find a matching male end for the exact connector (like https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...yI/AAAAAAAABQ8/uwhzCPWP8p4/s1223/DSC_3041.jpg)
But I found a different generation of the connector pair that I think will fit with minimal modification. It will be here on Thursday. Then I can intercept the IAT without cutting wires
 

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I found an extender cable to intercept the AIT sensor for $25. It has newer generation Bosch connectors but they connect and seal with our OEM sensor:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D41VNCX

I was also looking at 10kOhm thermistors on Digikey but have not ordered anything

I got the bluetooth OBD reader going. The repair manual shows 2 air intake temperature sensors, one part of the 4-pin TMAP sensor that the Boosterplug intercepts. And another 2 pin sensor that has a different connector number than the TMAP but the same wire colors. Weirdly unplugging the TMAP did not disrupt the Air Intake Temp reading in Torque but it did trigger a MAP high fault on the ECU. I'm not sure if or where another air intake temperature sensor exists on the bike.

Next step is cutting my new extender cable and add a pot. Then build a chart of AIT temp, OEM AIT sensor resistance and how much resistance I have to add at various temperatures to drop the intake air by 5,10,20*C
 

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I found an extender cable to intercept the AIT sensor for $25. It has newer generation Bosch connectors but they connect and seal with our OEM sensor:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D41VNCX

I was also looking at 10kOhm thermistors on Digikey but have not ordered anything

I got the bluetooth OBD reader going. The repair manual shows 2 air intake temperature sensors, one part of the 4-pin TMAP sensor that the Boosterplug intercepts. And another 2 pin sensor that has a different connector number than the TMAP but the same wire colors. Weirdly unplugging the TMAP did not disrupt the Air Intake Temp reading in Torque but it did trigger a MAP high fault on the ECU. I'm not sure if or where another air intake temperature sensor exists on the bike.

Next step is cutting my new extender cable and add a pot. Then build a chart of AIT temp, OEM AIT sensor resistance and how much resistance I have to add at various temperatures to drop the intake air by 5,10,20*C

Your still have to los your cat;)
 

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I found an extender cable to intercept the AIT sensor for $25. It has newer generation Bosch connectors but they connect and seal with our OEM sensor:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D41VNCX

I was also looking at 10kOhm thermistors on Digikey but have not ordered anything

I got the bluetooth OBD reader going. The repair manual shows 2 air intake temperature sensors, one part of the 4-pin TMAP sensor that the Boosterplug intercepts. And another 2 pin sensor that has a different connector number than the TMAP but the same wire colors. Weirdly unplugging the TMAP did not disrupt the Air Intake Temp reading in Torque but it did trigger a MAP high fault on the ECU. I'm not sure if or where another air intake temperature sensor exists on the bike.

Next step is cutting my new extender cable and add a pot. Then build a chart of AIT temp, OEM AIT sensor resistance and how much resistance I have to add at various temperatures to drop the intake air by 5,10,20*C

A few updates:

Most recently I got a boosterplug used but I am sorting a wiring issue before I can install it. If you have a 2017-2018+ and have a boosterplug connected on the left side of the bike and aren't feeling any effects, PM me. I.e. if you completely unplug the left-side sensor, turn bike on and ECU fault code is MAP signal high but not AIT signal high. KTM seems to have changed the bike wiring and it's not clear when.

Somewhat related I found that the repair manual is correct about the AIT not being in the TMAP. I found the real AIT on my 2017 on the airbox on the right side of the box, very close to the rear brake reservoir. It has a cover secured with a retained crosshead screw. From this sensor on the right I can read the resistance and its temperature reading can be read over CAN BUS (torque app). Maybe they relocated the sensor to avoid warranty claims from heatsoak-induced lean fueling in their hottest markets. And didn't bother to change it on the RC because it's supposed to be either racing on the track or turned off? Anyway, the TMAP doesn't even seem to contain a thermistor, pins 1 and 2 are a completely open circuit!. If you look from the harness side with both sensors disconnected, the ground (shared with the MAP) is the same as the AIT ground But the temp signal wires going into the TMAP and AIT harness are not connected even though they share the same color code (gr-wh). I stay awake at night wondering where that TMAP temp signal wire terminates.

I've been taking readings of my AIT resistance and indicated temperature and will post data soon. Without a harness to hack apart I can't experiment with a pot to lower temps yet. I bought a nice one for the TMAP but it's useless now. I am building something similar for the AIT but the male connector is difficult to source outside aliexpress. The female side is common on honda civics and pigtails can be found easily online. I think the civic uses that connector for every 2 wire sensor on the **** car. I have decided not to post anything more than my observations of the resistance-temp readings and the resistances required to lower the AIT. That way the DIYers have the data and I'm not cutting into someone else's business.

Along with that I would like to get a wideband o2. My requirements are 1) bosch 4.9, 2) narrowband simulation so I can replace OEM o2, 3) small and no gauge required, 4) output over CAN BUS so I can read/log in torque app. Most products that do ADC with CAN BUS output are multi-channel and industrial in nature ($$$, big). I was thinking of a Arduino and CAN-BUS shield in a waterproof box and using the ADC to sample the output of opensource 14point7's free2's wbo2 controller. That's about $145 (add $40 for GPS) for something clunky with a lot of potential, i.e. expanded into a secondary ECU. I was also thinking about an Innovate LC-2 wbo2 controller as I have had a LC-1 on my track car and a MTX-L on my Sunday car for ages and I'm happy with them. I would take the digital serial output from the LC-1 and feed it into a TinyIOX (re-purpose some megasquirt tech) which sends it out the CAN BUS. That's $260 and avoids DAC->ADC signal conversion, also allows a proper 52mm gauge. Innovate actually announced the LC-3 in the beginning of the year which basically is a LC-2 that outputs over CAN BUS. But they attained this product through acquisition and it doesn't look like they've started to produce it yet. Finally I looked at another favorite, Zeitronix. And their new Zt-3 checks all the boxes like the LC-3 but you can actually buy it for $180. The narrowband simulation can be biased which likely results in behavior similar to the rapidbike easy. Pretty cool. The Zeitronix Zt-3 is what I've settled on.


I forgot what else I was going to say
 

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I received my replacement boosterplug, installed it on the right side of the bike and confirmed via CANBUS that AIT was 77*F before, 37*F after. Will ride it tomorrow



KTM did not put much time into engineering the new AIT placement. Must have been an overnight decision. The AIT connector cover screws into an abrasive nut which spins freely when you try to back the screw out. KTM used crap glue that does not hold up to the exhaust heat. My process for removal of the cover is pulling on it with my hand and installation via percussion
 

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I wonder if this was the reason that the 2017 models in North America were sitting at the port for many months before they arrived at dealers. The delay was supposedly related to emissions or DOT compliance so one possibility is the bikes failed to meet emissions targets during a spot check at the port and KTM USA had to relocate the AIT upstream to the airbox in order to pass. And maybe they held up the Canadian bikes so the NA models were uniform.

On the other hand that is a lot of changes to make post-factory. The TMAP was switched out to a MAP with dummy temperature pin (if this was done urgently then why not just leave the original sensor there), the harness was modified by disconnecting the wire from the TMAP at the ECU and extending a new sheath and sensor out to the airbox, and the entire airbox was switched out. The repair manual shows the same separate AIT sensor for the 2017 EU/AU/JP/AR/MY/PH markets.

In conclusion, I dunno
 

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how did the ride go? did you feel any difference with the BP installed ?

Very good! I went out in 85*F weather with high humidity. I noticed an increase in low to mid RPM grunt immediately. To leave my place I have to cross a crowned highway which goes uphill immediately after you go over the crown. I normally gun it in 1st across the crown and then quick shift into 2nd as I hit the hill. On my test ride the front wheel lofted up a couple feet in 2nd gear and even stayed up for a bit. That's definitely not happened before in 2nd gear without dumping the clutch. I also noticed that it is a lot more squirrelly in turns on cold tires. I reckon it's making more torque now. The jumpiness when cruising in traffic at mid RPM is tamed as well. You can tell that the ignition is still hunting around but the bike doesn't lurch and my old neck injury is no longer aggravated from that. I'm going to keep it installed next track day. I think the valves will run cooler! I haven't installed the temp probe permanently yet. It sort of sits underneath and behind the pillion seat now. I'm going to move it to a better location for airflow. I am very happy with this product
 

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cool, that's great news! very impressive that you managed to find the solution for it, despite DOT meddling with our toys ;)
As I wrote a few weeks back, I mounted mine under the tank shroud on the left side of the tank, while John van Muijden placed it under the tail plastics.. so sky's the limit on the placement
The only thing I wouldn't recommend is to zip-tie it to the sub frame where I placed mine to begin with. It turns out that the sub frame draws heat from the cat box. So the sensor heats up as well resulting in lean mixture all over again
 

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A few updates:

I.e. if you completely unplug the left-side sensor, turn bike on and ECU fault code is MAP signal high but not AIT signal high. KTM seems to have changed the bike wiring and it's not clear when.

Hi Crazy Uncle Jon!


I've done what you suggested i.e. completely unplugged the left-side sensor and turn bike on to check if boosterplug is plugged in in the right place. Since nothing happened I swithed off the bike an left it sit for the night. In the meantime manufacturer confrimed that my boosterplug is faulty and they will send me a new one. However when I sterted the bike up next morning I got a yellow exclamaition mark warning on my TFT. I guess it has to do with me running the engine with left-side sensor unplugged the other day. And now my question - is it possible to make the warning light go away wihout plugging computer to ECU? eg. resetting ECU by unplugging battery etc.?



Thanks in advance for any advice :)
 

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EDIT what lights up is malfunction indicator lamp (yellow engine) and not the general warning light (yellow exclamation mark).
 

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I don’t have my BoosterPlug yet, but I’m trying to figure out how I’m going to cleanly mount/zip-tie it to something. I don’t meant the temp sensor, I mean the rest of the wiring and module that will presumably be hanging off the front of the airbox on a 2018 Duke. Anyone with a good picture of it mounted would be my hero.


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I don’t have my BoosterPlug yet, but I’m trying to figure out how I’m going to cleanly mount/zip-tie it to something. I don’t meant the temp sensor, I mean the rest of the wiring and module that will presumably be hanging off the front of the airbox on a 2018 Duke. Anyone with a good picture of it mounted would be my hero.


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Are you planning on getting one? What do you plan on doing in terms of mods? I started with a BKE and went to a PCV.
 

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Are you planning on getting one? What do you plan on doing in terms of mods? I started with a BKE and went to a PCV.


I have a slip-on Yoshi, and that’s probably all I’ll do. But I had a BoosterPlug on my F800GS (also with a slip-on) and it improved the ridability in a big way. No more surging and stumbling, which is my only goal with this bike. Plus running a bit cooler is never a bad thing. So yes, I do plan on getting one. The location for it was much better on my GS, hence my question.


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I have a slip-on Yoshi, and that’s probably all I’ll do. But I had a BoosterPlug on my F800GS (also with a slip-on) and it improved the ridability in a big way. No more surging and stumbling, which is my only goal with this bike. Plus running a bit cooler is never a bad thing. So yes, I do plan on getting one. The location for it was much better on my GS, hence my question.


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Ah ok, that should work just fine then.
 

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I don’t have my BoosterPlug yet, but I’m trying to figure out how I’m going to cleanly mount/zip-tie it to something. I don’t meant the temp sensor, I mean the rest of the wiring and module that will presumably be hanging off the front of the airbox on a 2018 Duke. Anyone with a good picture of it mounted would be my hero.

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hi
the wiring is short (not to the sensor but the rest of it) and it plugs in at the rear of the cylinder head cover, on the left side of the bike, so I just tucked it all in behind the frame, didn't even zip-tie.
the good thing is that on the 2017-> models you don't need to take anything off the bike to install it, it really takes just 5 min if you just zip-tie the sensor to the frame

hope this helps
 

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hi

the wiring is short (not to the sensor but the rest of it) and it plugs in at the rear of the cylinder head cover, on the left side of the bike, so I just tucked it all in behind the frame, didn't even zip-tie.

the good thing is that on the 2017-> models you don't need to take anything off the bike to install it, it really takes just 5 min if you just zip-tie the sensor to the frame



hope this helps


Thanks much, but my confusion about that is because of the instructions on BoosterPlug’s web site. For the 2017+ Duke it shows the plug to use is hanging off the airbox on the right side of the bike just behind the rear shock. Then weirdly for the RC390 it shows where you’re talking about. I can’t imagine why it would be different between the two bikes.


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