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Discussion Starter #121
Probably impossible to get rid of the chicken strips on rear M7RR in 150 width. Tire profile almost vertical at edge. I'll try Bridgestones next year and use 140 rear.

I'll also raise the bike back to stock height if tracking again. The engine case touching down is directly related to the lowered suspension I think. Would never be a problem on the street but at the higher lean angles at the track, it became a liability.

Again, no injuries, relatively minor damage to bike and a few scrapes to the leathers and gloves.

 

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Discussion Starter #124
Also wondering if you tried switching maps? Noticeable? Was torque app logging?
I won't run Ben's map from Competition Werkes, logging with Torque showed it was quite a bit leaner. Only been running Chad's Akra exhaust map.

I didn't realize why until today but I thought the Bluetooth dongle had failed at the track. Turns out the fuse I pulled to disable the lights also disabled the OBDII port... So, unfortunately, no data there :(
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Spot the difference?



 

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Discussion Starter #128
Totally worth it.

Going to reduce kill time to 55ms. At 65ms for 1-2 and 60 everywhere else but 55 is enough according to other posts. Chad sets 52ms if shift kit installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #129

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Discussion Starter #130
Pro-Bolt order arrived.

Anodized aluminum alloy M10 bolts for spools. Have left sliders off to reduce leverage in case of crash.

Replaced crappy fairing bolts as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Wasn't cheap, mostly because of the shipping.

The 2 orange alloy bolts plus 8 dome cap screws were £31.65 GBP shipped, about US$42 or C$52 to the door.

Aluminium Race Spec M10 x (1.25mm) x 55mm Etched
SKU: LHX1055FROE
Colour Orange 2 £6.86

Stainless Steel Dome Head Bolt M5 x (0.8mm) x 16mm
SKU: LSSFB516XL
Colour Polished Stainless 8 £14.80

Subtotal £21.66
Shipping & Handling £9.99
Grand Total (Excl.Tax) £31.65
 

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Hi,

I've got to say - your build is pretty inspiring. ;)

I've got a question about rearsets: did you have any problems while installing them? I've got slightly different ones and they appear to be thinner than the oems which results in shifter colliding with swingarm axle bolt. :|

And the second question - would you recommend 320mm rotor?
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Didn't have any issues with shifter - post pics of your clearance problem?

Definitely recommend the 320mm rotor. However, before the rotor, upgrade the pads, those make a significant difference as well and much cheaper to boot.
 

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Didn't have any issues with shifter - post pics of your clearance problem?
I think that spacer should do the trick... Other than that Everything seems to be in order (well, I've also had to buy shorter bolts for pegs, because I have folding ones).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TL4g-MZnqfN5L-EfdmUXLpnO8j0e_dKW/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YoU9KO3Xx1RFRl7iW9UtNEjaWDxb-amL/view?usp=sharing

Definitely recommend the 320mm rotor. However, before the rotor, upgrade the pads, those make a significant difference as well and much cheaper to boot.
I wasn't in a hurry to upgrade brakes, because they seemed to be competent enough, I've experienced some rather stressful fading. ;) This winter I'm planning on changing brake fluid and pads as a total minimum. But if I change pads and then decide to change rotor it would be wise to change new pads once again.

Is the Power Parts rotor good choice? It is a full set, which is nice. ;)
 

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I wasn't in a hurry to upgrade brakes, because they seemed to be competent enough, I've experienced some rather stressful fading. ;) This winter I'm planning on changing brake fluid and pads as a total minimum. But if I change pads and then decide to change rotor it would be wise to change new pads once again.

Is the Power Parts rotor good choice? It is a full set, which is nice. ;)
How many fingers do you use to break? I'm 2 fingers breaker so I'm using a Er-6n MC that has a 14mm piston and I would say that it is almost perfect with EBC HH pads. A 320mm rotor would be a future upgrade since it would give me a more resistant setup in case of abuse.
Are you using the bike in a track day? I have a hill between my house and customers and I never saw any fading. Take care of MC because the 12mm oem has to be squeezed too much to break. In a hard break I used to squeeze my left 2 fingers with oem mc even with adjustable lever in the far position.
Luis
 

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It might seem weird, but I'm using 4 fingers for braking. ;P In normal use I haven't noticed any fading, but yes, I'm using her on the track. And I've had few situations that scared me - when some guy braked harder than I expected. Fading is suboptimal in situations like that. ;)

So you say you've upgraded your master cylinder to ER-6 one? And the caliper is stock?
 

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Discussion Starter #138
I think that spacer should do the trick... Other than that Everything seems to be in order (well, I've also had to buy shorter bolts for pegs, because I have folding ones).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TL4g-MZnqfN5L-EfdmUXLpnO8j0e_dKW/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YoU9KO3Xx1RFRl7iW9UtNEjaWDxb-amL/view?usp=sharing



I wasn't in a hurry to upgrade brakes, because they seemed to be competent enough, I've experienced some rather stressful fading. ;) This winter I'm planning on changing brake fluid and pads as a total minimum. But if I change pads and then decide to change rotor it would be wise to change new pads once again.

Is the Power Parts rotor good choice? It is a full set, which is nice. ;)
Did you reuse the castellated spacers out of your OE rearsets? You shouldn't have that much bolt thread showing. Pic of the original rearset with the spacer removed...

Also, the alignment of mine when I first set them up.

Regarding pads and fluid, change out your fluid if you're already experienced fade. It's a simple operation and worth doing if you haven't already. My rear brake was garbage even with new sintered pads until I changed the fluid. It was poor from new, bubbles and cloudy. You won't need to change pads when you install new rotor either, just need to bed them into new rotor with a few hard stops.
 

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It might seem weird, but I'm using 4 fingers for braking. ;P In normal use I haven't noticed any fading, but yes, I'm using her on the track. And I've had few situations that scared me - when some guy braked harder than I expected. Fading is suboptimal in situations like that. ;)

So you say you've upgraded your master cylinder to ER-6 one? And the caliper is stock?
Yes the caliper is stock. Yes the MC is from Er6n since it is a 14mm piston. I tried 16mm but I had to make a lot of effort to break. The HH pads dissipate heat much faster than the oem and a 320mm rotor would help as well.
I think that this setup would support your track day. There are some guys here that used aftermarket radial MC with excellent results but I got the easiest path since er6n is sold here.
Luis
 
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