The thing is, and I checked the sticker and manual to make sure, the quoted 5-7mm isn't for chain "slack", it is the distance between the swing arm and the chain when pushing the chain upwards. I realize this is not the usual way that required chain slack is indicated on motorcycles. Although it is somewhat easier to eyeball as it is a "static" measurement (push up, look at distance between chain and swingarm) vs. trying to gauge how much the chain is moving.I agree with roadster. I have adjusted my chain so that it has 15 mm slack loaded. I have found that this reduces the amount of chain slap, and provides smoother gear changes. If you want to follow the maintenance manual advice and set the slack at 5-7 mm, this should be done with the bike loaded by the rider.
Yeah, looks like that's the "KTM way". It also means that a smaller number means more slack (able to push the chain closer to the swingarm).My EXC is the same mate, grab it at a certain point and lift. With both KTM's I use the same method, find one point and use that as my eye guide. Never experienced this chain slap that people have mentioned all over the forums.
False, it must be done on the ground.Its advised too but I dont.
False, you need a torque tool.No. Just loosen the wheel nut and wind the tensioner bolts (next to the rear axle bolt) out till you have 3-5mm chain slack (unloaded). The tool kit has everything you need.
True.Just make sure you move the wheel and check the tension at few points and not just one.
Every chain tension adjustment must be done with rider and all the weight.I agree with roadster. I have adjusted my chain so that it has 15 mm slack loaded. I have found that this reduces the amount of chain slap, and provides smoother gear changes. If you want to follow the maintenance manual advice and set the slack at 5-7 mm, this should be done with the bike loaded by the rider.
.... 3-5mm chain slack (unloaded)....
....15 mm slack loaded........ set the slack at 5-7 mm...
...... 5-7mm isn't for chain "slack", it is the distance between the swing arm and the chain when pushing the chain upwards. ...
The arrows on the figure are pretty clear as to what the measurement is.
Doe's anyone have some advice about this? I am no mechanic, but I should be able to check the chain tension. I find the figure in the owners manual to be confusing, it is the same figure that is present on the swing arm of the 2016.When pushing the chain up at the designated spot, with no load and in neutral, is it the distance from the top of the chain to making contact with the swingarm; or is it the distance from the top of the chain to the outer lower edge of the swingarm? The manual doesn't say. The picture looks like the arrow points to the outer lower edge, but my chain pushes up behind that lip and has around .2" to making contact with the swingarm. I have 100 miles on it....the sticker SUCKS, all KTM mechanics told me you must adjust the play, not the distance in between. As the manual suggest.
Thanks, but my issue is not with adjusting the chain, it is with determining the correct tension in the first place.you dont have to lift rear in order to adjust the chain. Just unscrew a little the rear axle nut and adjust the small nuts. Like other members said, the rear axle must have same distance left and right, in order to be completely aligned with the front wheel. Better a little loose chain then very tight.
The chain slaps when it is loose.