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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to change my clutch lever.

2017 Duke - the clutch has the clutch cable attached.
But, there is another wire attached to the clutch lever at it's base.

What is that wire for?


Reddirt
 

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Red. First you remove two tiny Phillips head screws, that are on the underside of the clutch lever perch. They retain the safety switch. Then take away the little switch assembly. After that you can safely remove the lever pivot bolt and jam nut that retains the clutch lever
 

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I guess I should have added that if your new lever can’t mount the switch then you will need to bypass the switch by adding a jumper wire between the contacts if you want to be able to start the bike in gear.
 

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Be careful shorting or permanently opening the switch as it may have unexpected results!
The clutch switch and neutral switch are most likely linked to the ECU. They are used to stop you starting the bike in gear with clutch out, but, the ECU may alter the timing for easier starting and also apply a rev limiter as it will assume there is no load on the engine.
I don't know if this applies to the 390, but worth finding out before getting rid of the switch :)
 

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Yes. It does on mine Red. I have the matching front brake lever as well.

Do you need me to measure and post a picture of the lever adjusted to the closest reach?
 

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Looking to change my clutch lever.

2017 Duke - the clutch has the clutch cable attached.
But, there is another wire attached to the clutch lever at it's base.

What is that wire for?


Reddirt
This comes from the exp of breaking it - allows me to spare you.

There is a little "box" under the clutch lever. 2 screws hold it on. REMOVE THIS BOX before removing the old clutch lever.

The box has a little switch inside of it which you will see. It tells the bike if you have the clutch pulled in or not.

I broke the little plastic "switch" off the box when I first replaced my clutch lever and it was a pain to figure out WTF was going on. Good news is it is a $7 part. ;)
 

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Also, if you purchase the genuine KTM PowerPart lever as Red has posted a picture of, it comes with an instruction sheet detailing the exact steps to remove and replace the lever in order to have success without needing any other replacement parts
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I'm good

Yes. It does on mine Red. I have the matching front brake lever as well.

Do you need me to measure and post a picture of the lever adjusted to the closest reach?
Whyzee - that's ok, it only needs to be a small bit closer that the stock.
 

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This comes from the exp of breaking it - allows me to spare you.

There is a little "box" under the clutch lever. 2 screws hold it on. REMOVE THIS BOX before removing the old clutch lever.

The box has a little switch inside of it which you will see. It tells the bike if you have the clutch pulled in or not.

I broke the little plastic "switch" off the box when I first replaced my clutch lever and it was a pain to figure out WTF was going on. Good news is it is a $7 part. ;)
How hard was it to replace the clutch safety switch? I appare broke mine according to the dealership.
 

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How hard was it to replace the clutch safety switch? I appare broke mine according to the dealership.
Plugs in inside the headlight so that’s just three Allen bolts plus the screws under the lever. Just make sure you get it set right under the lever.

Or just don’t bother.
 

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How hard was it to replace the clutch safety switch? I appare broke mine according to the dealership.
SUPER easy to replace...as long as you know it it there ;)

The box removes with 2 screws from underneath.

But if your bike is at the dealership you might just want to have them replace it while it is there. The part cost was like $8 USD for me and they threw it on for free....
 

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Be careful shorting or permanently opening the switch as it may have unexpected results!
The clutch switch and neutral switch are most likely linked to the ECU. They are used to stop you starting the bike in gear with clutch out, but, the ECU may alter the timing for easier starting and also apply a rev limiter as it will assume there is no load on the engine.
I don't know if this applies to the 390, but worth finding out before getting rid of the switch :)
This question has come up twice now that I sat down to finally figure out what to do about a broken switch. During the interim I was going to tape the switch to always indicate "clutch engaged" just for those notorious times the Duke wants to stall coming up to or taking off from a red light. I have not found an answer - does the ECU do anything different if it sees the clutch is engaged, or can I ride without worry?
 

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SUPER easy to replace...as long as you know it it there ;)

The box removes with 2 screws from underneath.

But if your bike is at the dealership you might just want to have them replace it while it is there. The part cost was like $8 USD for me and they threw it on for free....
It's somehow astounding that I cannot google find a replacement switch. The only one so far is $12.80 from a U.K. distributor. Is there anything in the U.S.? Where did you get the $8 switch from?
 

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On my 2015 first-gen 390 it is part # 90111049100 SWITCH CLUTCH
 

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This question has come up twice now that I sat down to finally figure out what to do about a broken switch. During the interim I was going to tape the switch to always indicate "clutch engaged" just for those notorious times the Duke wants to stall coming up to or taking off from a red light. I have not found an answer - does the ECU do anything different if it sees the clutch is engaged, or can I ride without worry?
So I taped up the switch to indicate "clutch engaged," and rode into work. This is one of the cooler mornings we've had in a while, about 70F or so. First thing I noticed is much more excessive popping and sputtering when off throttle and slowing down. It even stalled out a couple times. After 6 miles, I stopped, took the tape off the switch, and flipped it in the other direction, i.e., "clutch disengaged." What a difference, back to normal. The ECU undoubtedly changes engine parameters based on switch position. Next thought, that's probably exactly why the bike stalls at lights from time to time when the switch is installed and working as designed. The stalling issue has really been tee'ing me off, and it seems I found the culprit. Short of pulling up the schematics, is there a way to enable the safety portion of the switch and not letting the ECU know what's going on??
 

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On my 2015 first-gen 390 it is part # 90111049100 SWITCH CLUTCH
Thanks, that popped up in ktmworld for $6.38. That site came up in my previous search, but once you drill down into your specific bike, it brings you right to the parts blow-up drawings. No luck finding it from that angle. I will have to call to make sure 2nd gen part is the same.
 

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90511049000 for gen 2. I’m surprised it has a different number but I suspect it is the same switch. Maybe the plug is different?
 
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