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So.......... It seems that my duke likes to cut out/stall when braking sharply (with the clutch in) once I come to a stop? Anyone else experienced this at all???
Just recently started to have this problem after 2 years. Felt like I just started riding bike again but I noticed my clutch cable is handling on by like 2 threads not sure if that’s the real reason why it staled if i am not constantly reving my bike in traffic.
 

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Right. In the case of both fox250fox and dukeofmark, I'd say 'idle learn' them both, b4 I even considered anything else. But for different reasons, of course.
Have either of you tried doing the '10 minute idle relearn' on your bikes, just in case noone else did, after their batteries were reinstalled, b4 delivery to a new 'you'?
I’m new so it’s the first I’ve heard this. I’ll look it up and give it a go. Thank you
 

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I changed the spark plug for an ngk irridium and did the 10 min idle re set last night.The bike was definately smoother this morning will just have to wait and see if it cuts out again
 

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So.......... It seems that my duke likes to cut out/stall when braking sharply (with the clutch in) once I come to a stop? Anyone else experienced this at all???
It happened to me today for the first time, i got to a red light and went to make the right turn and my bike was off, but only happend once so maybe i accidently hit the kill switch who knows.
 

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Ok ,after doing a hundred miles yesterday i can confirm the bike is still cutting out,3 times to be precise :mad: I will be contacting the dealer this week although i know its a waste of time.
Surely the cure is just a software update so why wont Ktm do something !!! :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Is there a fuel cut out sensor in case of accident on these things? Wonder if sharp breaking could set such a thing off?
 

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I’ve read somewhere I’m sure that KTM do or did a fuel cut to assist heavy braking which if true would account for a software fix. It would certainly increase the odds of stalling.

In practice I’m also wary of claims that the clutch was fully in. It might be fully in by the time you stop but doesn’t mean it wasn’t still in the process of being pulled in and dragging at the point the engine actually stalled.
 

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Mirius,the bike cuts out long before i come to a halt, it literally just cuts off instantly when the clutch is pulled in to change down. I would be interested to know if anyone with an ecu piggy back is having this issue?
 

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I never had this happen on either Duke 200 or 390 both with a PT (first gen bikes).

Mirius,the bike cuts out long before i come to a halt, it literally just cuts off instantly when the clutch is pulled in to change down. I would be interested to know if anyone with an ecu piggy back is having this issue?
 

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So is that just when braking? What happens when you just let off the throttle and change down? I suspect you need to pin down exactly what is happening when this happens and see if you can then get it to consistently repeat. Heavy braking, any braking etc. Is it caused when both clutch and brake levers are pulled? Does it happen with the back break?

It’s going to be hard to get a fix if you just walk into the dealer and tell them the bike randomly cuts out because they will then need to replicate it themselves.
 

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Replace the fuel filter and clean the throttle body throughly.. when we slow down the bike the engine requires some fuel for idling but due to dust in Throttle body it doesn't get sufficient amount of fuel for idling.. cleaning Throttle body and changing the fuel filter helped me.. i guess it will work for you too.
 

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2019 KTM Duke 390 w/RapidBike Evo ECU piggyback
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So.......... It seems that my duke likes to cut out/stall when braking sharply (with the clutch in) once I come to a stop? Anyone else experienced this at all???
In my case it’s cutting out when I downshift with clutch fully in. I noticed that to greatly reduce this problem there is a hack. What you have to do from now on is wait for solenoid clicking sound about 10 seconds after you turn the ignition key on. The first thing you hear is the fuel pump priming click, that’s not it. You have to listen to the quiet humming sound under the tank that goes on for like 10 seconds after the fuel pump stops priming. Once that second solenoid click happens then you start the engine.
Do this every time to greatly reduce the likelihood of stalling in the middle of the road when downshifting or breaking.

I have no idea what the second humming noise is. I think it’s like some computer starting. If you start the bike before that computer goes through the starting sequence sometimes a software bug is causing the stalling. The second reason is probably the kickstand sensor killing the engine when you run over a deep pothole that moves your kickstand down. Probably.... the spring on the kickstand is probably pulling at the wrong angle and the spring is not as effective to hold the kickstand that was abused for a while and got loose. Inspect and tighten your kickstand bolt! This is a potentially deadly engineering issue.

Hope this helps. (I run a RapidBike Evo Controller to help enrich the air/fuel ratio to prevent stalling/jerking when moving slowly.)
 

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I have a Powertronic on my 2020 390 ADV.
This is an absolute annoyance.
Mine is kept at idle everyday for 10 minutes, and it will cut out at least 5 times by the time I get to work.
From 1st to 2nd, pull the clutch, and it's off.
Braking from 4th or 3rd, and changing down for a corner or a stop light, it's off.
Sometimes, whilst riding, pull the clutch to coast and it's off.
The dealer kept it for 4 months. Changed the ECU, updated the software, And it came back...worse.
I added the PT thinking it would make a difference, but none whatsoever.
I do have the PowerParts Akrapovic (same as David's), the Coober open Airbox lid (REALLY loud, drowns out everything), a K&N Air filter.
I am just going to relegate myself to live with it, as dangerous as it really is.
This is 'er
52820
 

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It happened to me today for the first time, i got to a red light and went to make the right turn and my bike was off, but only happend once so maybe i accidently hit the kill switch who knows.
Exactly the same case as mine.
Now add a barreling bus that is trying to make the turn...from the opposite direction, and have the **** thing cut out on you...oh yes. pucker factor through the roof.

Has anyone sorted this out.
I can confirm it is NOT fuel grade related. I have tried everything from regular al the way up to 99. No difference.
Plug cleaned/changed

It has to be the fantastically lean running at idle (close to idle?), but I though the PT would resolve this.
 

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This is an excerpt from the July, 16th, DirtRider issue...

"The one issue I had was the engine cutting out while riding off road. It only took me roughly 50 miles to figure out what was happening. After numerous close calls and mysterious engine stalls, I noticed the yellow kickstand warning light on the dashboard. My first thought was the kickstand was bouncing and making the engine cut out. After another 3 or 4 miles and paying close attention to the trails, I realized it was not the kickstand moving on its own, but my heel pushing it down. Fortunately, this was easily correctable. There is a small wire loop welded to the side of the kickstand that was sticking out and positioned directly below my heel. I simply bent it in to allow clearance for my foot and, presto, the issue was resolved."

I will try this, but won't hold my breath
 

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Staling can also be caused by clogged fuel filter or faulty fuel pump that stops or slows down the fuel delivery too much under sudden light load.
I suspect a software issue also. When you press the clutch there is a sensor under the clutch lever that tells the ECU the clutch is pressed. (Make sure it’s lubed and working btw) Maybe this somehow causes a glitch in the software telling the fuel pump to stop pumping as much fuel and the fuel pump suddenly stops and then starts again but too late.... 🤷‍♂️ And engine stalls in this gap.
 

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I can also confirm that this may not be the case.
My fuel filter was changed during the service.
The fuel pump, possibly, but then wouldn’t it be a perpetual issue whenever the clutch were pulled, or the bike came to idle? This is more or less random.
 

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I did the oft spoken about magnet-washer mod to the side stand switch. I can confirm it doesn’t work. LOL.
It’s a right PITA, and am quickly running out of options here.
 

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From 1st to 2nd, pull the clutch, and it's off.
Braking from 4th or 3rd, and changing down for a corner or a stop light, it's off.
Sometimes, whilst riding, pull the clutch to coast and it's off.
The evidence really does point at the clutch or clutch switch. It’s the common factor in all the above. I’d also add that we’ve seen a number of complaints about cutting out or starting issues associated with coasting so this is something to avoid.

Clutch switch, clutch drag - my experience is that these engines are really easy to stall, or a software glitch. I’d suggest unplugging the clutch switch, readjusting the clutch and using more revs when using the clutch and see if any of those changes how often it happens. Just having the revs too low with a slightly dragging clutch might do it.
 
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