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2020 KTM Adventure 390. 馃崐 No quick shifter.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Unique Maintenance tip for those OCD people who prefer to change their oil every ~3000km... I met a few.
So I went crazy and bought a newer 2020 Adventure with 1800km on it for a good price. (I'm selling my older 2020 Adventure with only 13,700km). When I got it from the dealer I noticed that the oil was overfilled, so I knew I better fix the oil level right away.
After the bike was delivered to my house, my hands were itching to just change the oil and inspect everything. I immediately dropped the engine guard and started draining the oil into a clean container. (The oil in it was Motorex Top Speed 4T Sinthetic.)
What I saw next was very surprising.
Firstly, at 1800km the oil was super clean and fully transparent golden in colour. I looked at the plastic traps and the big trap was moderately dirty around the magnets and had a few metallic shards trapped in the net. The small trap was almost clean and not attached to the 13mm drain bolt as it should be! This was weird. It's a new bike and the traps are relatively clean, so where are the rest of the metal shavings, I wondered?
Well, the answer came soon after I looked at the bottom of the drained oil container. It had a motherload of metallic shavings, gasket material and some paint as a sediment that settled down in about 30 minutes after I drained the oil. I was shocked. Those plastic nets and the oil filter do a terrible job at capturing the crap in the oil! Be warned.
Maybe this is because the little net was not inserted into the bolt properly and was not filtering right? Don't know for sure, but I do know that the oil quality is still very high and there is no point in throwing it away so soon. It had a lot of life still in it, so I was determined to save the perfectly good oil and reuse it. Then I remembered that I have a bunch of old drip coffee paper filters and an Idea came to me... Why don't I just filter all the oil through a coffee paper filter and make sure that none of the crap on the bottom of that container gets back into the engine?! I did it. It took some time as the oil is quite a bit more viscous than coffee, but in the end I rejuvenated and cleaned my oil wich still serves me well.
For people who enjoy changing oil more frequently than the manufacturer recommends - do not throw away your oil - just clean the plastic filter nets and strain that oil through a coffee filter (or two) to remove all the gunk and metal shavings and go ahead and continue to use your rejuvenated cleaned oil (especially if it's synthetic) until your recommended maintenance period.
Moreover, if your oil is fully synthetic and you don't race on it, its useful life is around 12,000km-15,000km, so you can just change/clean the filters and filter the oil and continue to use it for 2 service intervals! Now, in reality, most people will like to change their oil anyway, but at least now you know that it's possible with fully synthetic oil only. If your oil is (the recommended in the manual) semi-synthetic variety, do not do this and change your oil at regular intervals. Most importantly, I want to stress that there is absolutely zero point in replacing your oil more frequently than recommended unless you're racing or you like to ride really hard and torture the engine shifting at ultra high > 8000rpm on a regular basis. Replacing the oil sooner than recommended is a waste of oil, your money and it's polluting unnecessarily when you can just strain the oil/clean the plastic traps with kerosene as often as you like and get unlimited OCD satisfaction as well.
 

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Two things,
You did not mention the paper oil filter, only the strainers. Have you renewed the paper oil filter?
2) it is a second hand bike with 1,800 km. Now if the service was (correctly) done at 1,000 km you are 800 km into the second fill of oil.
There is absolutely no way this oil will be new.
You mention it was overfilled, I am very suspicious on this bike's history and maintenance.
An oil in a wet-clutch engine will be murky after 800 km.

Now oil in wet-plate clutch engines will deteriorate over time, additives will break down, pertol dilution, viscosity deterioration etc etc.
This 'filter through a coffee filter' advise is imho not a good advise.
 

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Two things,
You did not mention the paper oil filter, only the strainers. Have you renewed the paper oil filter?
2) it is a second hand bike with 1,800 km. Now if the service was (correctly) done at 1,000 km you are 800 km into the second fill of oil.
There is absolutely no way this oil will be new.
You mention it was overfilled, I am very suspicious on this bike's history and maintenance.
An oil in a wet-clutch engine will be murky after 800 km.

Now oil in wet-plate clutch engines will deteriorate over time, additives will break down, pertol dilution, viscosity deterioration etc etc.
This 'filter through a coffee filter' advise is imho not a good advise.
agreed
 

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I agree with KTMasean, something isn鈥檛 adding up. I bought my 2018 390 from a dealer with 400 miles, which is close to the same distance as the 800km, the oil for me was dirty and had shavings in the filter, the mesh and some in the oil. The dealer told me they did not do the first maintenence. Clearly! So you have clean oil but shavings and with synthetic oil? Hmm
I replaced the oil and filters and everything else at that point. After 1000 miles the (normal) 15w-40 diesel oil I used looks better than the breakin oil with barely any shavings in the mesh filter nor oil, so I think it鈥檚 okay the oil looks clean still for you, the shavings however would tell me they didn鈥檛 clean anything, maybe didn鈥檛 even do the first maintenance, just replaced oil.
If it was me, the oil wouldn鈥檛 get reprocessed, many reasons, primarily because oil is the bloodline of the engine, secondly, you had shavings, reusing that oil that was taken out moved around and put through a coffee filter, even if it鈥檚 synthetic, came from the same dealer that sold you a bike with shavings in it after 1800km. That alone would be ( and was I my case) why I would start with a clean new filter, thorough cleaned mesh and brand new oil.
I鈥檓 in no way saying your suggestion isn鈥檛 right for you and others, especially after a few K on engine, I wouldn鈥檛 do it in general, but that鈥檚 me as mentioned above, but merely that as a starting point the shavings seems concerning and I would spend a few dozen dollars and get a good and known oil in my newly purchased bike. Will your suggestion break anything, more than likely not, is the oil been sitting in the bike longer than a few months? Remember, oil has a time and distance limitation, cleaning it doesn鈥檛 reset that time frame.
I鈥檓 OCD I would replace my oil earlier than normal only because I need NEW oil in my engine not because I filtered it, probably no better than the oil filter I already have in the bike.
I don鈥檛 want you to think I鈥檓 criticizing your suggestion, just throwing out reasons it鈥檚 not for me, and something to think about as far as it being a viable option.
Personally, leave the oil alone and replace it per the KTM manual. Less work, better oil in the end.
 

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The proper way to determine if your oil is still good is to have it tested by someone like Blackstone Labs.

They can tell you how your engine is wearing and about the the anti wear additives remaining.
 

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CDN Duke,

I do not understand what you are trying to achieve this way?
Do you mean rather than spending a few bucks on fresh oil and a filter, you take a sample, send it to a lab for analysis (and more money than the 1.7 Ltr. of oil plus a paper oil filter) and in case of a positive lab report drain all the oil from your engine, filter it through a paper coffee filter to get 2 or 3,000 more km's out of it?
I think in your bike's life span you'd be better off not buying fork springs & custom spacers, DJ quickshifter,& piggyback, the Gray Aria air box, & injector, open lid, K&N air filter, the exhaust and the TYGA front pipe.
What you do to your bike is, obviously, up to you but to advise more mechanically challenged forum members to start filtering their oil through a coffee filter is neither beneficial to the forum members nor their engines.

B.t.w. there was an oil test from various motorcycle brands a while ago (I believe by ForthNine) in which KTM scored above average so to check your engine oil in between the recommended oil change intervals, is basically a waste of time.
You having shavings, gasket parts and the like in your drained oil would worry far more than the price of 1.7 litres of engine oil and an oil filter.

In your case, I would make 100% sure the 1,000 km initial service was carried out, if there is any oil filter in place and find the cause these shavings and gasket material found their way into the sump. (this definitely should never happen).
While you are at it, I would do the valve clearance check as well.

Good luck with your new 1,800 km bike.
In general, our KTM's are well bedded in at around 4,000 km and only by then will deliver their full power.


The proper way to determine if your oil is still good is to have it tested by someone like Blackstone Labs.

They can tell you how your engine is wearing and about the the anti wear additives remaining.
 

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Duke 390. Surprising huh鈥..
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Novel idea. And i fully support the potential environmental side of the discussion.

But from what i've read; molecular chains in the oil, thus the oils effectiveness in terms of lubrication and cooling does deteriorate through heat cycles and being constantly being 'chopped' at by the rotating crank and conrod etc. Not to mention the pressure the oil is put under normal use. This amongst many other factors effectively 'kills it' over time.

So the notion of re-using already used oil (And it being 100% as effective and protective) is a mute one imo.

So for me; I'll take the assurance and insurance of changing mine frequently with quality oil. Which rather than being expensive as you put it: i would say is cheap compared to the possibility of accelerated wear; and replacing or re-building an engine........

Interesting link for reference:

 

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CDN Duke,

I do not understand what you are trying to achieve this way?
Do you mean rather than spending a few bucks on fresh oil and a filter, you take a sample, send it to a lab for analysis (and more money than the 1.7 Ltr. of oil plus a paper oil filter) and in case of a positive lab report drain all the oil from your engine, filter it through a paper coffee filter to get 2 or 3,000 more km's out of it?
All I'm saying is that rather than guessing if the oil is still good or not, it's better to have it tested by someone who can properly evaluate the oil.

Personally, I run full synthetic and change both oil and filter regularly - earlier than prescribed. I have greater peace of mind doing this. To date, I've been running Amsoil 10W50 and been very happy.
 

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Duke 390. Surprising huh鈥..
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All I'm saying is that rather than guessing if the oil is still good or not, it's better to have it tested by someone who can properly evaluate the oil.

Personally, I run full synthetic and change both oil and filter regularly - earlier than prescribed. I have greater peace of mind doing this. To date, I've been running Amsoil 10W50 and been very happy.
Sorry - VERY off-topic; but just seen 'inverted K+N filter' in your signature.

Could you educate the uneducated here 'Why' please :ROFLMAO:
 

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Sorry - VERY off-topic; but just seen 'inverted K+N filter' in your signature.

Could you educate the uneducated here 'Why' please
For first gen bikes, it was a way to increase the volume of the air box. It was dyno proven to increase HP.
 
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Duke 390. Surprising huh鈥..
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For first gen bikes, it was a way to increase the volume of the air box. It was dyno proven to increase HP.

Thanks !!!

It's at times like this (When FREE horse-power is available) i don't appreciate having the "right" filter - but the "wrong" generation bike :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

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2020 KTM Adventure 390. 馃崐 No quick shifter.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
First of all, thanks all, for your ideas.
Keep in mind that I said that this article was meant only for people who prefer to change their SYNTHETIC oil way too frequently - around 3000km (2000mi). My main point was to eliminate the total waste of oil, because synthetic oil has a much much longer useful lile than 3000km (more like 12,000km with normal, non racing use). While it's true that all oil deteriorates over time, but at 3000km (2k mi) the oil deterioration is at approximately 20%-30%!
About giving wrong suggestions to non mechanically inclined people... My post clearly says in its conclusion who this post is for. I clearly said that my unique suggestion only applies to synthetic oil and only in non racing/engine torturing situations. This is NOT only about the cost of new oil being sufficiently low to allow for extra waste and pollution. This is about the principle of efficiency while being reasonably aware of the approximate oil life of fully synthetic oil at only 2000mi of normal use.
.... I'm also now thinking that maybe there is no paper oil filter in there! It could be that the mechanic at the dealership simply forgot to put one in. I better check that...
I also suspect that the dealer could simply quickly replace the oil without cleaning the nets and not allowing for the old oil to drain out long enough to take with it the metal crap... Sigh..
 

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Advised oil change intervals are at 7,500 km if not mistaken (not 3,000).
Fully synthetic can work well up to 15,000 km not sure your paper oil filter can.
I see absolutely no benefit of the coffee filter excersize but as said it is your bike, your rules.
Your catch line, imho, is simply wrong.
 

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2020 KTM Adventure 390. 馃崐 No quick shifter.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Advised oil change intervals are at 7,500 km if not mistaken (not 3,000).
Fully synthetic can work well up to 15,000 km not sure your paper oil filter can.
I see absolutely no benefit of the coffee filter exercise but as said it is your bike, your rules.
Your catch line, imho, is simply wrong.
Right, I should have never suggested to people not to follow the suggested oil change intervals in the manual.
My post focused ONLY on people who love to change their synthetic oil every 3000km (~2000mi). I wanted to suggest to them that it's their bike and they can do whatever they want with it, but what they are doing is wastefulness and wastefulness is irrational even if it's quite affordable.
...And my catch line certainly caught everyone's attention. :)
 
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