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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 2018 Duke 390 last year. It's my first motorcycle. I immediately found that track riding is by far what I enjoy the most. So I've made a number of tweaks for track riding, with more to come.

Here's me at my third track day.

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Before I did anything else, I installed a tail tidy. The factory fender was surprisingly heavy. That swap saved at least a couple pounds.

Next, I swapped the stock front brake pads for EBC HH. Frankly, I didn't notice a huge improvement in power or modulation. But they certainly weren't any worse. Improved brake feel and bite remains on my list of upgrades.

Quickly I felt that the Duke's upright riding position was a detriment. The upright position makes it more difficult to feel what the front tire is doing. And it makes the cockpit feel cramped. I explored swapping the Duke 390 for an RC 390, but that would have cost over half the bike's value. So I decided to instead spend the money on making the Duke more track-friendly.

Moving the handlebar position down and forward was the first order of business. But that is difficult. I couldn't find a kit that would do the trick. Ultimately, I decided to use a set of Woodcraft clip-ons with a riser and a spacer. This moved the bars about four inches forward and two inches down.

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It wasn't a super-simple swap. The Duke's controls aren't designed to be plug-n-play. The handlebar, display, and turn-signals are all supported by a large and heavy cast aluminum assembly with massive steel bolts.

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Going to clip-ons without replacing the mounts for the display and turn-signals would leave this heavy, ugly mount exposed. Instead of taking half-measures, I chose to eliminate the bulky mount altogether and use LED strips for indicators.


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I still needed a mount for the display, but no aftermarket mount is available. So I 3D printed a mount. The stock mount weighs a couple pounds. My mount weighs an ounce or two. It also lowers the height of the display by a couple inches to maintain the relative positions of the controls and display.

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In the course of swapping the bars, I removed the stock grips. I replaced them with (vastly superior) Renthal soft grips.

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Here's a side view comparison showing the much lower profile of the display with the new mount.

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After changing the bar position, I became - perhaps unnecessarily - fixated on the exhaust system. The pre-muffler is massive and shaped like a boat anchor. To be fair, it is quite heavy and - as long as you dont care about noise - useless. The same for the catalytic converter. I replaced both with items from Competition Werkes.

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With the exhaust overhaul, it was obvious that the stock passenger pegs and the muffler-hanger were overweight and unnecessary. Evotech in the UK offered an inexpensive solution.

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That's where I am today. Future plans include better front brake feel, and much better suspension. The stock suspension has a tendency to dive and pogo - though that could be my ham-fists on the controls.
 

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Nicely documented.
Should’ve bought the RC instead of the Duke. When in the riding position, the front fork legs feel as if they are an extension of your arms.
The EvoTek exhaust hangar is incredibly light compared to the two buddy pegs/brackets it eliminated
You are having FUN and that is what life with motorcycles is all about! Enjoy
 

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RC top yoke/ tree and bars are an alternative but you still have the issue with the screen mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did consider that. However, I took some measurements on an RC and concluded that the Duke's fairings would prevent the RC bars from turning lock to lock.
 

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Interesting that you went so far with weight savings but haven't considered upgrading the suspension? Is it even set for your weight?
Also, stock tyres?

Seems to me like you might have focused on the wrong farkles :)

Also, removing the rear fender to save weight but keeping the heavy crash bars, instead of investing in crash pads. Most of these changes look like accessorizing for the street rather than the track, save for those handlebars (props for that)
 

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Definitely the Andreani fork inserts and an Öhlins rear shock.
For brakes, upgrade have a look at Frando (Taiwan) great products and a worthy improvement over OEM at a fraction of the cost of Brambo.
Frando MC 7NB and calliper F80A.
For a rotor have a look at the MotoMaster Stealth, Galver or EBC.
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Thanks!

Any track riders out there have an opinion on what should be next?

Andreani fork cartridges, or a Brembo master cylinder for the front brake?
51124
 

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IMO you'll notice the biggest improvements in this order:

  • Tyres. The M5s are fine for the street but they're not comparable to modern hypersport or track tyres. It's by far the best bang for the buck upgrade.
  • Further ergonomic improvements (Are your rearsets where you want them to be, now that you've moved the steering? Stompgrips on the tank? Are your levers where you need them?)
  • Suspension, front and rear. The front could maybe be salvaged by dumping heavier oil in it, the rear is hopeless.
  • Brakes, maybe

I'm saying "maybe" because the best way to ride low-powered bikes on track is to try to break as little as possible and carry a lot of speed into the corners. You don't need super powerful anchors, I find the stock brakes good enough. That's unless you're racing and want to have the best possible everything in order to win trophies, but if you're training, you'll get more out of your money for buying track time and lessons :)

BTW do you intend to ride this on the street or are you converting it to a 100% track bike?
 

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Good to find you here Dhaval,
Sent you a message on your FB page in order to buy your side stand bypass but never received an answer?
Not sure if I understand why one would want to reverse the gear shifting?

I have modded my 2013 Duke 390 with 1Up/5Down gear shift and have also made side stand eliminator switches for the older and new models to remove the side stand for track use.
Please check out my facebook page for other mods.
 

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Sorry I haven't been very active on Facebook for some time except for a few random posts.
Where are you located? I have a few pieces of the side stand Bypass available but won't be able to send out due to the COVID-19 lockdown.

Reverse gear pattern is mostly used on track and wanted to try out on my Duke 390 for my regular use. I found it to be convenient and haven't gone back to the traditional shift.
Here is the link to a video of my commute to work

 

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I'm based in the Lao PDR,
Not in a hurry but on my Duke 200 the magnet bolt broke off and I now have it taped on.
Not going to be a long term solution though.


Sorry I haven't been very active on Facebook for some time except for a few random posts.
Where are you located? I have a few pieces of the side stand Bypass available but won't be able to send out due to the COVID-19 lockdown.

Reverse gear pattern is mostly used on track and wanted to try out on my Duke 390 for my regular use. I found it to be convenient and haven't gone back to the traditional shift.
Here is the link to a video of my commute to work

 

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Not sure if I understand why one would want to reverse the gear shifting?
There are two often-cited reasons why people go for reverse shifting:
1. A kick down on the lever can be tiny bit faster than navigating your boot under it and pulling up. This may yield you fractions of a second when accelerating & upshifting on straights, whereas it's usually not so important to be lightning quick on your downshifts.
2. If you need to upshift in the middle of a left-hand turn because you've ran out of revs, you sometimes don't physically have the room below the lever to slide your foot in, there's asphalt in the way when you're leaned hard enough.

Both are extreme corner cases and I believe most people who reverse their shifters really do it because their racer idols do it, or because someone told them it's better. Plenty of professional racers actually stick to the conventional shift pattern, so it's not objectively faster or anything, a matter of what works for you.
 

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Would you consider making more of the mount you made for the display and selling it? Reason I ask is cause the setup you have is what I was trying to do to mine but haven’t had the time to make it work. Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'd be happy to share the 3D file and instructions. I can't vouch for the longevity of the mount as I've only put about 50 miles on it. But it handles 80mph on the freeway no problem.

Let me know if you're interested and I'll put together a complete explanation with part numbers, 3D file, where to order the print, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'd be happy to share the 3D file and instructions. I can't vouch for the longevity of the mount as I've only put about 50 miles on it. But it handles 80mph on the freeway no problem.

Let me know if you're interested and I'll put together a complete explanation with part numbers, 3D file, where to order the print, etc.
BTW - Here's what the mounts look like up close.

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I'd be happy to share the 3D file and instructions. I can't vouch for the longevity of the mount as I've only put about 50 miles on it. But it handles 80mph on the freeway no problem.

Let me know if you're interested and I'll put together a complete explanation with part numbers, 3D file, where to order the print, etc.
oh man thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
IMO you'll notice the biggest improvements in this order:

  • Tyres. The M5s are fine for the street but they're not comparable to modern hypersport or track tyres. It's by far the best bang for the buck upgrade.
  • Further ergonomic improvements (Are your rearsets where you want them to be, now that you've moved the steering? Stompgrips on the tank? Are your levers where you need them?)
  • Suspension, front and rear. The front could maybe be salvaged by dumping heavier oil in it, the rear is hopeless.
  • Brakes, maybe
I'm saying "maybe" because the best way to ride low-powered bikes on track is to try to break as little as possible and carry a lot of speed into the corners. You don't need super powerful anchors, I find the stock brakes good enough. That's unless you're racing and want to have the best possible everything in order to win trophies, but if you're training, you'll get more out of your money for buying track time and lessons :)

BTW do you intend to ride this on the street or are you converting it to a 100% track bike?
As of right now, I have about 400 miles on the bike with 300 at the track. It's mostly a track bike, but I enjoy riding it to store or the office from time to time.

The ergonomics are certainly a question. Drastically changing the position of the handlebars makes the whole riding position different. However, this was a winter project and it's still winter here in Minnesota. I won't be able to really get a feel for the new position till our tracks open in May.

The stock tires only have one or two more track days in them. I figured I'd replace them with Dunlop q3+ early in the season.

My fixation on the brakes comes from 20+ years of mountain biking. Those brakes have incredible power and feel. The stock front brake on the Duke doesn't really lack power, but it has no feel.

That said, I think the unsettled suspension is more of an issue. Especially since I'm not particularly smooth yet. Any suggestion for the rear shock? The WP unit seems over-priced.
 
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