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Discussion Starter #21
oh man thank you!
It'll take a couple days to come up with directions for installing the mount.

In the meantime, the bars you need are 51mm with a 3 inch rise. I bought Woodcraft (12-5551-78B). You also need a 10mm spacer kit (12-spacer1.5), otherwise the triple clamp gets in the way.

Most clip-ons, including the Woodcrafts, have a negative rise (they slant downward as you move toward the end of the grip). This is a real problem for the Duke because its fairings practically engulf the upper forks. If you install the clip-ons with a negative rise, you won't be able to turn lock-to-lock. There is a simple solution with the Woodcrafts. You just mate the left riser to the right clamp. This produces a positive degree rise instead of a negative rise. It also maintains the motocross-like grip position of the stock Duke.

I set the bars with about 10 degrees sweep. With that setup, the bars are about two inches lower and four inches forward. There is ample clearance to turn lock to lock.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll give a similar explanation of the mount in a day or two.
 

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It'll take a couple days to come up with directions for installing the mount.

In the meantime, the bars you need are 51mm with a 3 inch rise. I bought Woodcraft (12-5551-78B). You also need a 10mm spacer kit (12-spacer1.5), otherwise the triple clamp gets in the way.

Most clip-ons, including the Woodcrafts, have a negative rise (they slant downward as you move toward the end of the grip). This is a real problem for the Duke because its fairings practically engulf the upper forks. If you install the clip-ons with a negative rise, you won't be able to turn lock-to-lock. There is a simple solution with the Woodcrafts. You just mate the left riser to the right clamp. This produces a positive degree rise instead of a negative rise. It also maintains the motocross-like grip position of the stock Duke.

I set the bars with about 10 degrees sweep. With that setup, the bars are about two inches lower and four inches forward. There is ample clearance to turn lock to lock.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll give a similar explanation of the mount in a day or two.
It'll take a couple days to come up with directions for installing the mount.

In the meantime, the bars you need are 51mm with a 3 inch rise. I bought Woodcraft (12-5551-78B). You also need a 10mm spacer kit (12-spacer1.5), otherwise the triple clamp gets in the way.

Most clip-ons, including the Woodcrafts, have a negative rise (they slant downward as you move toward the end of the grip). This is a real problem for the Duke because its fairings practically engulf the upper forks. If you install the clip-ons with a negative rise, you won't be able to turn lock-to-lock. There is a simple solution with the Woodcrafts. You just mate the left riser to the right clamp. This produces a positive degree rise instead of a negative rise. It also maintains the motocross-like grip position of the stock Duke.

I set the bars with about 10 degrees sweep. With that setup, the bars are about two inches lower and four inches forward. There is ample clearance to turn lock to lock.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll give a similar explanation of the mount in a day or two.
bro thank you so much!
 

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My fixation on the brakes comes from 20+ years of mountain biking. Those brakes have incredible power and feel. The stock front brake on the Duke doesn't really lack power, but it has no feel.
MTB brakes are probably going to have more feel as the bike is a lot lighter. That said, if you are lacking feel then I’d look at bleeding the brakes and checking the pistons are free because those are the normal cause of reduced feel.

The stock front brake seems to be ok for most stunt riders to do stoppies with so I’d say it has enough feel for that.

You might also want to consider upgrading the front disc before master cylinder or calliper.
 

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Sorry, I gave incorrect information on the MotoMaster rotor.
First of all, they are called Flame (not Stealth, this is the SuperSprox sprocket) and then the later models with the 320mm rotors do not seem to have the floating Flame rotors from MotoMasters (yet?)
As for the rear shock have a look at this Öhlins model:
I run the KT301 on my 2015 390 with Andreani fork inserts and springs for my weight.
 

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I run dual front flames on my Bandit but that is a fairly heavy bike so they work very nicely. So far the Galfer is doing the job on the Duke.
 

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I never used Galfer rotors (looking very nice), only a floating EBC and now the Flame.
The EBC issue was that the brake pads (also EBC HH-sintered) were not covering the rotor fully.
Changed calliper as well now to the Frando F80-A, rear a fixed Flame rotor and OEM calliper.
 

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I purchased a 2018 Duke 390 last year. It's my first motorcycle. I immediately found that track riding is by far what I enjoy the most. So I've made a number of tweaks for track riding, with more to come.

Here's me at my third track day.

View attachment 51109

Before I did anything else, I installed a tail tidy. The factory fender was surprisingly heavy. That swap saved at least a couple pounds.

Next, I swapped the stock front brake pads for EBC HH. Frankly, I didn't notice a huge improvement in power or modulation. But they certainly weren't any worse. Improved brake feel and bite remains on my list of upgrades.

Quickly I felt that the Duke's upright riding position was a detriment. The upright position makes it more difficult to feel what the front tire is doing. And it makes the cockpit feel cramped. I explored swapping the Duke 390 for an RC 390, but that would have cost over half the bike's value. So I decided to instead spend the money on making the Duke more track-friendly.

Moving the handlebar position down and forward was the first order of business. But that is difficult. I couldn't find a kit that would do the trick. Ultimately, I decided to use a set of Woodcraft clip-ons with a riser and a spacer. This moved the bars about four inches forward and two inches down.

View attachment 51110

It wasn't a super-simple swap. The Duke's controls aren't designed to be plug-n-play. The handlebar, display, and turn-signals are all supported by a large and heavy cast aluminum assembly with massive steel bolts.

View attachment 51111

Going to clip-ons without replacing the mounts for the display and turn-signals would leave this heavy, ugly mount exposed. Instead of taking half-measures, I chose to eliminate the bulky mount altogether and use LED strips for indicators.


View attachment 51112

I still needed a mount for the display, but no aftermarket mount is available. So I 3D printed a mount. The stock mount weighs a couple pounds. My mount weighs an ounce or two. It also lowers the height of the display by a couple inches to maintain the relative positions of the controls and display.

View attachment 51114

In the course of swapping the bars, I removed the stock grips. I replaced them with (vastly superior) Renthal soft grips.

View attachment 51116

Here's a side view comparison showing the much lower profile of the display with the new mount.

View attachment 51115

After changing the bar position, I became - perhaps unnecessarily - fixated on the exhaust system. The pre-muffler is massive and shaped like a boat anchor. To be fair, it is quite heavy and - as long as you dont care about noise - useless. The same for the catalytic converter. I replaced both with items from Competition Werkes.

View attachment 51118

With the exhaust overhaul, it was obvious that the stock passenger pegs and the muffler-hanger were overweight and unnecessary. Evotech in the UK offered an inexpensive solution.

View attachment 51119

That's where I am today. Future plans include better front brake feel, and much better suspension. The stock suspension has a tendency to dive and pogo - though that could be my ham-fists on the controls.
Hi mjoliat, Romit this side from India. I bought the Gen-2 Duke in 2017 and till now its working like a breeze. Thanks for sharing this post as I am currently considering to go for a clip-on setup (after seeing the Brutale 1000RR:love:)
With the mods you have done, I now have a general idea of what all needs to done. One question though, how is 3d printed console mount is holding especially since you track the motorcycle?
 

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It'll take a couple days to come up with directions for installing the mount.

In the meantime, the bars you need are 51mm with a 3 inch rise. I bought Woodcraft (12-5551-78B). You also need a 10mm spacer kit (12-spacer1.5), otherwise the triple clamp gets in the way.

Most clip-ons, including the Woodcrafts, have a negative rise (they slant downward as you move toward the end of the grip). This is a real problem for the Duke because its fairings practically engulf the upper forks. If you install the clip-ons with a negative rise, you won't be able to turn lock-to-lock. There is a simple solution with the Woodcrafts. You just mate the left riser to the right clamp. This produces a positive degree rise instead of a negative rise. It also maintains the motocross-like grip position of the stock Duke.

I set the bars with about 10 degrees sweep. With that setup, the bars are about two inches lower and four inches forward. There is ample clearance to turn lock to lock.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll give a similar explanation of the mount in a day or two.
Hello, new to forum, my 3nd KTM. I'm interested in doing a similar setup, could you please show a pic of where the 10 mm spacers go to avoid conflict w/triple clamp. Maybe a birds eye view, can't make out what you are referring to w /side pics. Also if you or anyone wants to make me some of those 3D printed mounts for the speedo I'd be glad to pay reasonable amount. I live in the mountains of North Carolina, the best i could do is bending some stock aluminum plate and paint it, I'm from the generation of transistors, 3 D printing beyond my ability.
 

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FYI, 1st gen R6 shock or 06-07 R1 shock are popular mods for RC guys..... Formula390 - Parts

Both are fully adjustable and work well from what I have read. Some change spring rates on the R6 shock to one a bit stiffer (depending on weight). I have a R1 shock for mine, just haven't taken the time to install it yet. Will be soon though, as I am prepping mine for track days and racing myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Hello, new to forum, my 3nd KTM. I'm interested in doing a similar setup, could you please show a pic of where the 10 mm spacers go to avoid conflict w/triple clamp. Maybe a birds eye view, can't make out what you are referring to w /side pics. Also if you or anyone wants to make me some of those 3D printed mounts for the speedo I'd be glad to pay reasonable amount. I live in the mountains of North Carolina, the best i could do is bending some stock aluminum plate and paint it, I'm from the generation of transistors, 3 D printing beyond my ability.

Hello,

Life took a bit of a turn and I've been away. Unfortunately, this forum does not permit me to attach the 3d print file (.stl) to this post. But I am happy to share it. Simply send me an email address to send the file to. Once you have the file, upload it to the 3d print service of your choice (e.g. Shapeways), choose a glass-filled plastic and color, wait for delivery, and install. You'll need some additional bits from the hardware store, but it should be fairly easy.,

With respect to the spacers, they are the standard Woodcraft clipon spacers. They go between the clamp that attaches to the fork legs and the clamp that attaches to the bars. Check out the Woodcraft site. I used 10mm spacers and 3" riser clamps oriented upwards. This worked perfectly. But there may be other combinations that would work.

Happy trails.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hi mjoliat, Romit this side from India. I bought the Gen-2 Duke in 2017 and till now its working like a breeze. Thanks for sharing this post as I am currently considering to go for a clip-on setup (after seeing the Brutale 1000RR:love:)
With the mods you have done, I now have a general idea of what all needs to done. One question though, how is 3d printed console mount is holding especially since you track the motorcycle?
Several months and no problems.
 

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Hello,

Life took a bit of a turn and I've been away. Unfortunately, this forum does not permit me to attach the 3d print file (.stl) to this post. But I am happy to share it. Simply send me an email address to send the file to. Once you have the file, upload it to the 3d print service of your choice (e.g. Shapeways), choose a glass-filled plastic and color, wait for delivery, and install. You'll need some additional bits from the hardware store, but it should be fairly easy.,

With respect to the spacers, they are the standard Woodcraft clipon spacers. They go between the clamp that attaches to the fork legs and the clamp that attaches to the bars. Check out the Woodcraft site. I used 10mm spacers and 3" riser clamps oriented upwards. This worked perfectly. But there may be other combinations that would work.

Happy trails.
Thanks for helping me understand, turns out there are 3D services in Asheville, where I have t go next Friday anyway. A search says that some UPS stores do it. Went to Woodcraft, eventually sort of figured out, they and the clip-ons are being shipped. Along w/ radial m/c, Galfer rotor, HH pads, Ohlins 301, monoshock, and these tires.
Michelin Power Cup Evo Tires - Cycle Gear
 

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Hello,

Life took a bit of a turn and I've been away. Unfortunately, this forum does not permit me to attach the 3d print file (.stl) to this post. But I am happy to share it. Simply send me an email address to send the file to. Once you have the file, upload it to the 3d print service of your choice (e.g. Shapeways), choose a glass-filled plastic and color, wait for delivery, and install. You'll need some additional bits from the hardware store, but it should be fairly easy.,

With respect to the spacers, they are the standard Woodcraft clipon spacers. They go between the clamp that attaches to the fork legs and the clamp that attaches to the bars. Check out the Woodcraft site. I used 10mm spacers and 3" riser clamps oriented upwards. This worked perfectly. But there may be other combinations that would work.

Happy trails.
One more question, I am unsure which process to specify, FDM($13), SLA($82), or SLS($72- in nylon only)?
 

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In progress pics, got the mount made by Shapeways as per OP's direction but had to order bolts long enough to mount. Till then this is what it looks like w/ stock mount, cut the ears for turn signals off w/ dremmel, touched w/ spray paint and removed steel backing plate. Bought bike used w/ 1383 mi <3 weeks ago. So far did the Woodcraft clip-ons as per OP, Ohlins shock, Andreani cartridges, cat/mid pipe delete, Rapid Bike Evo, EBC HH, Power Cup Evo Tires, SV Racing Warmers and a bunch of stuff don't remember at moment. Have Magura HC-1 radial MC but not installed yet. This is the peak riding season here for bikes and cars, had a group of older 911's come blasting past house twice yesterday, met them Fri-they were screaming- some were older race cars w/numbers and Malboro paint jobs, met a highly modified GPZ type Corvette on Thur.
 

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That's awesome! I'm thinking of getting Andreani cartridges and Ohlins shock, did you install them yourself? Anything turned out problematic?

Any idea if the fork caps with clickers will fit under stock handlebars?
 

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That's awesome! I'm thinking of getting Andreani cartridges and Ohlins shock, did you install them yourself? Anything turned out problematic?

Any idea if the fork caps with clickers will fit under stock handlebars?
The shock was very easy didn't need to remove mudguard, maybe 15 min. The Andreani carts were installed by Fast Bike Industries, called them and they said they were backed up for 1-2 weeks. Had to go to Asheville for Dr appt so dropped them off on Thur pm and spoke w/ David the owner, next Tue am they called and said they were ready( that was 3 business days!). It had rained all but one day so didn't miss out riding. Not difficult installing back on bike.
No issue w/ stock handlebar and caps, stuck it on there for illustration, see pics.
 

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The shock was very easy didn't need to remove mudguard, maybe 15 min. The Andreani carts were installed by Fast Bike Industries, called them and they said they were backed up for 1-2 weeks. Had to go to Asheville for Dr appt so dropped them off on Thur pm and spoke w/ David the owner, next Tue am they called and said they were ready( that was 3 business days!). It had rained all but one day so didn't miss out riding. Not difficult installing back on bike.
No issue w/ stock handlebar and caps, stuck it on there for illustration, see pics.
Here you can see how much farther forward and lower the clip-on are relative to stock handlebars. They will go lower I think but haven't tried. The clip-ons make a huge difference in feedback, maybe 50% more but it also introduces engine vibration which is an issue since you no longer have the rubber isolation. Right now have lead shot / silicone in the bars and Pro grip 788's, road race glove help alot as well. Had epoxed nuts in end of bar for stock bar ends and mirror but they came loose after couple rides, will use molten lead on next try. For a mostly dedicated bike i like the clip-ons, a guy who mostly uses the bike to commute would probably hate them. I forgot to mention that I went up one tooth on the fr sprocket and down 3 on the back now its 16/42. That's way taller than but suits my riding conditions, I ride it like a 125GP bike, 1st and 2nd are just to get rolling, I'm usually in 4th or 5th will drop down to 3nd for tightest turns.
 

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