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Discussion Starter #1
Youtube Video
SO basically, having this problem for 3 months. At the beginning when driving "intense" and with high revs, the engine will turn off, if i continue throttling, and it would do a stupid amount of POPS and BANGS (propably due to the not burned fuel). The more I continued driving with this issue, the earlier (with less and less RPM/throttle) the engine turns off. Coming to now, where you can barely drive with 0.1% of throttle, if more, the engine just dies. So luckily i found this guy having the excact same issue i can say.
The guy said in the comments, it turned out to be the valves being to tight, especially the exhaust ones, and a valve adjustment with proper sized shims fixxed the problem.
My question now:
1.Do I have ONLY have to adjust the SHIMS, or do i have to check the valves theirselves too?
2. I d like to know WHY such a problem occured and how it can be prevented.
 

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Do yourself a really big favor, and [diagnose, or have someone qualified diagnose] the actual nature of the problem. As in first.
Unless you are just that bored, then of cors, indulge yourself until you eventually cry "for the luvva gOD! ftW!"
[but i digress...]

One of the guys in the UK section, Graham(?), had an 'ignition coil' weakness/failure that progressed so much he could barely start the engine at times... and it was basically [about new].

Then of cors, there are others who discovered, once all the facts were in, that they had a second hand bike with a clogged fuel filter or contaminated fuel supply or defective spark plug. Yeah, it happens.

Here's an idea: begin by indicating the year and mileage of your bike, and its history.
Are you the first owner, or did you purchase it used?
Do you know its past maintenance ritual?
Stuff like that.

oh yeah -- i just saw this is your first and only post, slash just joined -- welcome to the club!
 

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Hi,
Just by watching your video without reading your post, I will say: "This is fuel injection trouble, check pump and fuel filter, even air filter".
But after reading your post, is it possible that the ignition system could be the trouble: Check your spark plug, the wiring, the coil.

If the valves were not properly adjusted, your engine would not run "round", but not stalling like it does (my guess).

And welcome ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do yourself a really big favor, and [diagnose, or have someone qualified diagnose] the actual nature of the problem. As in first.
Unless you are just that bored, then of cors, indulge yourself until you eventually cry "for the luvva gOD! ftW!"
[but i digress...]

One of the guys in the UK section, Graham(?), had an 'ignition coil' weakness/failure that progressed so much he could barely start the engine at times... and it was basically [about new].

Then of cors, there are others who discovered, once all the facts were in, that they had a second hand bike with a clogged fuel filter or contaminated fuel supply or defective spark plug. Yeah, it happens.

Here's an idea: begin by indicating the year and mileage of your bike, and its history.
Are you the first owner, or did you purchase it used?
Do you know its past maintenance ritual?
Stuff like that.

oh yeah -- i just saw this is your first and only post, slash just joined -- welcome to the club!
It s a 2016model with 24000km run, I'm the second owner at 18k km, I suppose the bike has a sketchy past.
My mechanic also told me it should be either an ECU issue, or something with the fuel system. So we changed the gas in the deposit, changed sparkplug, bought new fuel filter, even did the 15 min idle reset twice. Nothing changed. I told my mechanic that I found this guy on yt having the EXCACT same problem and that it was the valves. So we re gonna try it soon, must be done anyway.
Hi,
Just by watching your video without reading your post, I will say: "This is fuel injection trouble, check pump and fuel filter, even air filter".
But after reading your post, is it possible that the ignition system could be the trouble: Check your spark plug, the wiring, the coil.

If the valves were not properly adjusted, your engine would not run "round", but not stalling like it does (my guess).

And welcome ;)
After 3 months it has come to this point to just turn off with very slight throttle. As I said in the other comment, fuel filter, ignition spark has been changed. And that s not my video, I have the 2016 model with 24k on the clock, but it is the exact same problem. Thanks for the answers tho.
 

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If you actually have leaky valves, a compresion test can help verify that. Follow up with a leakdown test at TDC and listen to the intake and exhaust for air leakage. Do you take my meaning?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you actually have leaky valves, a compresion test can help verify that. Follow up with a leakdown test at TDC and listen to the intake and exhaust for air leakage. Do you take my meaning?
can u explain it a little more detailed, i m a newbie to all this mechanic stuff.
 

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If you believe that one or more valves is held open, by either misadjustment or possible physical damage,
a compression test may produce a weaker than expected result, in which case...

if you place the engine on top dead center of the combustion stroke, when both valves are supposed to be closed...
and begin pressurizing the cylinder gradually with compressed air, that air will leak into either the exhaust system or the intake manifold, (or into the crankcase in the case of actual piston or ring damage). It's called a leakdown test and we use it to refine our estimations of actual damages to a customer's engine, prior to disassembly. Part of the K.I.S.S. strategy and policy.

So if you have access to confirmed trained mechanic, he should actually have such a tool in his personal arsenal, right?

So before you actually go through the somewhat tedious and expensive process of 'adjusting' those valves, have him try to confirm if any of them are 'damaged' and leaking.

Cool?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you believe that one or more valves is held open, by either misadjustment or possible physical damage,
a compression test may produce a weaker than expected result, in which case...

if you place the engine on top dead center of the combustion stroke, when both valves are supposed to be closed...
and begin pressurizing the cylinder gradually with compressed air, that air will leak into either the exhaust system or the intake manifold, (or into the crankcase in the case of actual piston or ring damage). It's called a leakdown test and we use it to refine our estimations of actual damages to a customer's engine, prior to disassembly. Part of the K.I.S.S. strategy and policy.

So if you have access to confirmed trained mechanic, he should actually have such a tool in his personal arsenal, right?

So before you actually go through the somewhat tedious and expensive process of 'adjusting' those valves, have him try to confirm if any of them are 'damaged' and leaking.

Cool?
If you believe that one or more valves is held open, by either misadjustment or possible physical damage,
a compression test may produce a weaker than expected result, in which case...

if you place the engine on top dead center of the combustion stroke, when both valves are supposed to be closed...
and begin pressurizing the cylinder gradually with compressed air, that air will leak into either the exhaust system or the intake manifold, (or into the crankcase in the case of actual piston or ring damage). It's called a leakdown test and we use it to refine our estimations of actual damages to a customer's engine, prior to disassembly. Part of the K.I.S.S. strategy and policy.

So if you have access to confirmed trained mechanic, he should actually have such a tool in his personal arsenal, right?

So before you actually go through the somewhat tedious and expensive process of 'adjusting' those valves, have him try to confirm if any of them are 'damaged' and leaking.

Cool?
Ok Sir that makes sense. I will tell my mechanic. I ll also try to clean the throttle system before i go into the valves, cause i found another duke having stalling issues on youtube fixxing it by that, and it seemed pretty easy. I ll let you know what worked for me. Thanks!
 

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Do yourself a favor. Adjust the valve clearances to within specs!
you admitted your motorcycle has a sketchy past, so I would jump to the conclusion That they have never been checked/readjusted since new! Is there any evidence of tool marks, rounding of the corners of the valve cover bolts? This would indicate if the top of the head has ever been looked into.
The valves get out of specification (usually tighter clearances, which prevents the valve from fully closing OR closing for a long enough duration) because while you and/or the previous owner(s) are hammering/pounding on the outside of your motorcycle, the valves are hammering away (on the valve seats) on the inside of your motorcycle.
SO do yourself a favor and have your valve clearances checked and adjusted So that your engine can run properly.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Do yourself a favor. Adjust the valve clearances to within specs!
you admitted your motorcycle has a sketchy past, so I would jump to the conclusion That they have never been checked/readjusted since new! Is there any evidence of tool marks, rounding of the corners of the valve cover bolts? This would indicate if the top of the head has ever been looked into.
The valves get out of specification (usually tighter clearances, which prevents the valve from fully closing OR closing for a long enough duration) because while you and/or the previous owner(s) are hammering/pounding on the outside of your motorcycle, the valves are hammering away (on the valve seats) on the inside of your motorcycle.
SO do yourself a favor and have your valve clearances checked and adjusted So that your engine can run properly.
UPDATE: I saw another video with stalling issues, fixing it by cleaning throttle body and injector. So as it is by far easier I just did it today.
Outcome: I testdrived it, first 2 km went almost perfect, because there were some little "pops and bangs" coming out of the exhaust like usual... But no stalling or weird behavior. So, I get on the highway, banging through all gears till Rev limit, NO PROBLEM, reaching almost 180kmh with a big fckin smile on my face, as I turn to go back to the mechanic, it started the "stalling attempts" Again, and completely stalled some meters later. Wtf. My mechanic told me it must be the "input turbine speed sensor". So I m gonna order one tomorrow. Your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE: I saw another video with stalling issues, fixing it by cleaning throttle body and injector. So as it is by far easier I just did it today.
Outcome: I testdrived it, first 2 km went almost perfect, because there were some little "pops and bangs" coming out of the exhaust like usual... But no stalling or weird behavior. So, I get on the highway, banging through all gears till Rev limit, NO PROBLEM, reaching almost 180kmh with a big fckin smile on my face, as I turn to go back to the mechanic, it started the "stalling attempts" Again, and completely stalled some meters later. Wtf. My mechanic told me it must be the "input turbine speed sensor". So I m gonna order one tomorrow. Your thoughts?
Ouh just noticed the sensor was burned by the exhaust... Keeping u updated guys.
 

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While I am no expert, that doesn’t look like a burn to me. It looks like somebody cut spliced some wires and used tape instead of solder and heat shrink tubing for the repair.
also the wires do not look so good where they exit the engine cover.
what is an input turbine speed sensor?
Hopefully soon you will have it running properly
 

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Once again, the plot thickens... as D.I. geok99 turns, he witnesses a hatter with a mad laugh, and a bit ungainly manner, disappearing into the next alleyway; upon which, he pursues, in great haste, with his alarm whistle shouting alert to his legal brethren.
I have every confidence he will once again solve this most elusive case of solitary wits.

what is an input turbine speed sensor?
That's the wiring for the crank reference signal. And for the gear position sensor.
Cool stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Once again, the plot thickens... as D.I. geok99 turns, he witnesses a hatter with a mad laugh, and a bit ungainly manner, disappearing into the next alleyway; upon which, he pursues, in great haste, with his alarm whistle shouting alert to his legal brethren.
I have every confidence he will once again solve this most elusive case of solitary wits.



That's the wiring for the crank reference signal. And for the gear position sensor.
Cool stuff.
Once again, the plot thickens... as D.I. geok99 turns, he witnesses a hatter with a mad laugh, and a bit ungainly manner, disappearing into the next alleyway; upon which, he pursues, in great haste, with his alarm whistle shouting alert to his legal brethren.
I have every confidence he will once again solve this most elusive case of solitary wits.



That's the wiring for the crank reference signal. And for the gear position sensor.
Cool stuff.
yo wtf
UPDATE: So my mechanic did some taping over the cables and just put it back in position. IT RUNS PERFECT. He says it s his bad he didnt check the cables first. So the cables (whatever it s called) were touching on the exhaust system, and burned slowly. Anyway im gonna check the valves soon, but first, i ll absolutely terrorize the streets of Greece.
 

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It's my way of kidding around, I guess... as though it is all or may only be just another
masterpiece mystery variant...
because, apparently, anything and everything that actually gets resolved around here is usually...
the result of the OP discovering the true nature of what they have only overlooked.

Glad you got it resolved. (y)
 

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I think the plot is always thick in instances where mechanical apparatus are let’s say, neglected 🙂
 

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dude!!!

oh wait a minit... you weren't actually callin' me a mechanical apparatus, or suggesting i was neglected as a child, were ya.

my bad... everybody just ignore this 🤪
 

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because, apparently, anything and everything that actually gets resolved around here is usually...
the result of the OP discovering the true nature of what they have only overlooked.
I’m estimating that when I get people ask me questions over the internet and the problem is resolved, 90% of times the resolution is the result of something the asker has overlooked or forgotten to mention and has nothing to do with what they are asking about.
 

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I totally agree. But I guess that's why we're all here(?), just as someone else to bounce a random idea across(?).

Sometimes it even goes so far that I feel like I am [willingly participating in my own aggravation] to be helpful on some level...

but that is why I instead decided to start [viewing it all] as an episode of a detective/murder mystery -- one where no one, at first, is aware of any of the real details of what has actually occurred...

and the true entertainment in this case is actually the OP's experience with self-discovery. (y)
 
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