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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Today and found a small issue on my Duke's exhaust, one of the nuts used to fix the cosmetic shield under the pan is loose. In order to shut off the constant tinkle generated by this looseness, I temporarily added some copper thread to fill the gap. I'm sure it wont last, but eventually will last until I decide what to do.

looseFnut.jpg

Since removing this pan is a PITA, I'd like to get some opinions of possible solutions to solve it without removing, welding (TIG), and put it back in place...

I've found this liquid metal but I have not any experience with this kind of products, therefore have no clue if it could eventually be something to consider

Also, very reluctant on welding it in place (removing battery connections) and in a well aired environment; would it be safe for the electronics (?)

What do you think?

Thank you all!

RM
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello all!

Exhaust is off! Yes, it's Sunday in the afternoon, and rainy, why not dive into this? 😅

I printed and followed the procedure from the repair manual, nevertheless, of course it wouldn't / couldn't be as simple as stated in this procedure, otherwise it wouldn't be know as PITA task...

Well, I write this to share with you some details I've noticed during the procedure, that should, from my point of view be included in the standard procedure, since they add almost no time/work and can save you some head hakes and paint scratches.

1) remove the header - in order to do it you need to
1.1) remove the lower mounting points of the radiator, otherwise lambda probe will have no room to move forward
1.2) also assure the lambda probe cable has enough play to do this move, in my case I had to undo two plastic zipper in order to have this freedom assured
1.3) loosen the exhaust clamp and assure it is free

2) remove 4 (the ones that stay underneath be bike) of the 6 that fasten lower fairing - at some moment you might have the muffler stuck between the swing arm and this fairing, since the whole assembly has to tilt in order to get out of the frame

3) loosen the 4 screws that fasten the footrest brackets to the frame - when I did this the muffler wiggling effect started to produce much more noticeable results

4) remove the 2 upper muffler mounting points screws - in my case I didn't have to remove neither the sprocket cover or rear braking fluid container - with the right tools it is perfectly doable

5) remove the muffler lower mounting screw

6) compress the suspension - in my case I used a ratchet strap, a piece of wood and a few rags to avoid any kind of scuffs

7) wiggle the silencer while pushing it downwards.

Some picture attached; Hopefully the mount process will just the reverse of this, will tell you if not...

IMG_20210509_155429.jpg IMG_20210509_163247.jpg IMG_20210509_163257.jpg IMG_20210509_163304.jpg IMG_20210509_165852.jpg IMG_20210509_170211.jpg IMG_20210509_170226.jpg IMG_20210509_170240.jpg IMG_20210509_171001.jpg

Ride safe!

RM
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello all!

Just to update: muffler back in place (hopefully for at least a very good while). Took the opportunity to give it a sand blast and new paint ;)

PXL_20210529_090019897.jpg PXL_20210530_171537534.jpg
 
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