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In the past for my newly acquired bikes I would do a hard break in and change the oil around 1900 miles. Just wondering how you guys would go on with your maintenance procedure or if you guys do it any differently.

when I get my 390 Duke I plan to replace the K&N oil filter with the bolt at the end making it easier to remove and some Amsoil for heart fluid.
 

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I didn't do a motoman run-in or anything extreme, just took it out to the mountains behind my house and ran her up and down a few times the day I bought her. Running an engine in on crowded city streets is the worst thing you can do, besides cold starts. I always idle and wait for the coolant temp to hit 2 bars before riding the bike. If the coolant temp is very high after a hard ride, I would idle the bike for 2-5 mins before shutting off the engine.

Accelerate smoothly up to the 7500RPM mark in each gear and use the same gears coming down as up. Use the engine to decelerate coming down. I swapped my factory oil and oil filter out at 200Kms. It's a Nikasil coated precision part, you don't need 1000Kms to wear it in, but you can ruin it in the first 100Kms if you're not careful.

There were visible flecks of Aluminum at 200Kms, and when I swapped out the oil at 1000 for the "1st service", there were hardly any flecks at all. The mech who worked on my bike mentioned the oil he drained looked great.

Perhaps the only thing different I would do if I could would be to use a mineral oil upto 1000Kms from my 200 Km oil change instead of the Motul synthetic which it will run on forever now.
 
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Good read, good to know this. Do you know people running the oils you mentioned below or what? Seems like you are speaking from personal experience or from the experience of others
 

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I didn't rev up to 7500 RPM each time/gear, it was the max I hit if I did go that high. Going uphill and downhill taxes the engine well enough to warrant accelerating cleanly in each gear. It's no motoman run in, by far.

I believe my Duke came with mineral oil from the factory. It's currently running the manual recommended synthetic oil. I do have some experience with blocks and pistons, having changed over 2 dozen in my high revving 2-stroke bike.
 

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All KTM's come from the factory with Mineral Oil in them until their first service. In regards to running in its pretty much each to their own I find. Mine seen 10,000rpm a few times before the 1000km and has always lived around the 7000 area. Doesnt use a drop of oil or miss a beat.
 

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I changed mine at 320kms and then later around 1200kms.
The first change showed quite a lot of metal shearings stuck to the magnetic filter.
Took the bike straight out to the freeway and did about 150kms with lots of gear/RPM changes and occasional burst of RPM all the way to 8000RPM.
 

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I changed mine at 320kms and then later around 1200kms.
The first change showed quite a lot of metal shearings stuck to the magnetic filter.
Took the bike straight out to the freeway and did about 150kms with lots of gear/RPM changes and occasional burst of RPM all the way to 8000RPM.
Hi,

Im coming up on my first service shortly as well. Whats the best oil to use? Has anyone tried Motul 300v 15w50 Factory line.?

Im from India, we dont have Motorex oil here.

Thanks!
 

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Hi,

Im coming up on my first service shortly as well. Whats the best oil to use? Has anyone tried Motul 300v 15w50 Factory line.?

Im from India, we dont have Motorex oil here.

Thanks!
Yes, Dan is right. I am using Motul 7100 15W50 full synth.
I am told that 300V is even better. Whichever you choose, its good to stick to the brand/model.
 

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Hi All,

Had the oil changed to Motul 300v 15w50 today. The bike runs real smooth now. This is the only oil thats gonna be put in my bike from now on.:)
 

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Hi All,

Whats the exact quantity of oil that was put into your bikes on the first oil change. Just want to confirm whether it was 1.5 or 1.6 litres.

Thanks

nobody doing the Phil's way ???
Whats Phils method? :)
 

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Hey all,
Is this a good video to follow?
https://youtu.be/y590BZljv-U
I would say that it shows pretty much what you need to do to change the oil, but it's full of bad practices and omissions.

It's a good idea to change O-rings when you change the oil. Cuts down on the chance of leaks.He seems never to have heard of a torque wrench. He also lubes the chain with the engine running and the bike in gear.

A buddy of mine used to do that too, until he lost the tip of his finger. He hasn't done it since.
 

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I have yet to see my owners manual...but the one for the RC390 that is on line here asks for 15/50 partial synthetic and not full synthetic with oil change. What do you make of that? My Fiesta ST manual says the same thing....
 
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