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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What’s up fellow riders,
I received all parts required to do head gasket replacement, but I’m looking at the bike and really wondering if I can get it done with engine in place. I don’t have a garage and would prefer to leave engine/exhaust in place - has anyone done the job with engine on frame?

thanks a lot for your help, my duke is a 2015. I’ve already taken tank and airbox off (air box cracked)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I really want to know if the head with come out between frame bars so I can properly clean the pieces. If it won’t come out then I’ll have no choice. Anyone tried? I have the tools but not the space for engine, can’t leave it in the street or in the kitchen.
 

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This is one of those moments were you really should just drop the engine. I have been taking engines apart and working on cars for years and one thing I've learned is that taking short cuts can cost you a lot of time and frustration in the end. It will find a way to snow ball and really make your life terrible.
 

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He Duke373,
I have not done it with the engine in the frame but would think it possible if you remove the radiator.
It might even be possible to remove the cyl-head upwards through the frame but I am not certain.
In the end, why not try it and if the **** hits the fan you can always still lower the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mirius, Democracy only allows for one vote per person lol

last day to vote work begins tonight !

(Definitely not getting the impression anyone has tried this)
 

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Mirius, Democracy only allows for one vote per person lol

last day to vote work begins tonight !

(Definitely not getting the impression anyone has tried this)
I know someone who has tried it which went a long way to forming my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
tonight I’ll take head off. Definitely room to slide head out through front. The only issue I see so far is hard to see timing marks on camshaft sprockets, but I can see enough to say if about 5deg early (timing chain stretched?)
F692F7ED-C373-452A-804C-C58B1646BCD7.jpeg 054B021C-BB99-4C7A-B55E-988213564FAB.jpeg 11112BD0-0400-4BC2-B310-E1644592409E.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No problems getting the head out, luckily it’s not warped either. The head gasket wasn’t visibly cracked but fraying apart between layers.

All my valve clearances are 0.013mm - ok for exhaust but just a bit too big for intake. I’ll put it back together tomorrow night with a smaller shim.

i included a picture of the swivel extension i used for head bolts but maybe I’m just used to working in tight spaces and it doesn’t bother me.

have to get this baby running for Sunday !
79BC2C0E-ABCB-4EF8-A3B5-ED58E9308011.jpeg F6D3A08D-C11A-4DA3-BCC4-9FC141568ECB.jpeg 89D0CD64-2847-4AD8-8785-248D92622970.jpeg D24D3615-E756-4881-8FED-D996644F1901.jpeg 16785271-99EB-4B2D-A743-21FBEF37FB43.jpeg
 

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Duke373,

Surely a typo the 0.013mm valve clearance gap ;)

Please also see my post on the response from KTM Austria on the valve clearance:
After speaking to our R&D department I can give you the following feedback:
During the product development process, the valve clearance values have changed from MY17 to MY18.
The new values (intake: 0,10-0,15mm; exhaust: 0,15-0,20mm) can also be used retrospective for the old models.


Thanks for sharing.

No problems getting the head out, luckily it’s not warped either. The head gasket wasn’t visibly cracked but fraying apart between layers.

All my valve clearances are 0.013mm - ok for exhaust but just a bit too big for intake. I’ll put it back together tomorrow night with a smaller shim.

i included a picture of the swivel extension i used for head bolts but maybe I’m just used to working in tight spaces and it doesn’t bother me.

have to get this baby running for Sunday !
View attachment 53449 View attachment 53450 View attachment 53451 View attachment 53452 View attachment 53453
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Oops! Yes 0.13mm see pictures. mine is a 2015 model, The service manual says 0.08-0.12 for intake and 0.13-0.17 exhaust. I think I’ll use 0.10 intake and 0.15 exhaust - that way it will conform to both (or maybe .13 and .17 for new values). I’ll read your post for more details

i think my gasket failed because somehow the timing was early. This considerably delayed the opening on the exhaust valves (theory very debatable)

5A4316EA-6917-47F0-A1AE-27AF200B9977.jpeg 5A618D6C-457A-4A6D-81D8-00A952D8AA8F.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So engine is all put back together. I had to redo valve clearance twice to get it right but besides that everything went smoothly.

inconveniences of leaving engine in bike for head gasket job:

It was a bit tricky to get head on while avoiding knocking the chain rail out of place (it actually has a notch that sits below head gasket) and not easy to use feller gauge on intake valve side.

Valve clearance note: so the shim kit only gives you 0.05 increments so you can’t set the value you want unless you order specific thicknesses. Final clearances are Intake side set at 0.12mm and exhaust at 0.15mm.

timing note: far from precise adjustment. You can get pretty close but in the end your either gonna skip a tooth on the chain or not. I was off before I started the job, now it’s closer but as close as it’s gonna get.
Take a look at the picture, in CW rotation the intake cam shaft (LHS) and exhaust camshaft RHS) are both above the line so when they both turn cw, intake becomes horizontal and exhaust is above. This is taken with crank aligned at TDC. Camera angle is slightly above horizontal. (Maybe the timing chain crank pulley is keyless and can be uncoupled / offset / recoupled without moving the piston. Pitch between 2 camshaft sprockets is perfect
042F524B-1A6D-441F-8292-A04CD27294B6.jpeg
 

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Congrats, job well done.
The cam sprockets can (unfortunately) only be fitted in 1 position.
The markings in your picture are as good as it gets.
On my old race car, I had the option to set the position of the cam-sprockets where I wanted which (obviously) made the setting of the timing a lot more precise. I guess manufacturing such cam-shafts and sprockets will be an expensive exercise.
The later models of my car also came only with the fixed confuguration.
 
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