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2013 KTM Duke 390
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the whole saga with this bike began a year ago.

This bike came up for sale through an old friend of mine who owned it since new in 2013. He was asking a very reasonable price for it which tempted me a LOT. However, my good friend was on the lookout for a nice bike and I let him get first dibs. As expected, he snapped up the bike. Ofcourse I was happy for him and I kept looking out for known and unabused exampels of older Duke 390 for myself.

A week later, he dropped off the bike with me for some TLC. The bike did not come with handguards and was missing stickers on the tank. My friend wanted them both on.

The bike after its first wash



Right off the bat, I spotted a few problems.

Leaky valve cover gasket



Leaky rear shock absorber



Bike came with Michelin Pilot Street tyres but they were very old, nearing 5 years and there were some light cracks forming. There was a stupid legislation passed recently in our neck of the woods that banned imports of motorcycle tyres, leaving only horrible local tyres as options.

The brakes were very mediocre. This was a known issue with the 2013 dukes with the front master cylinder being the culprit. Having worked on another 2013 Duke 390 belonging to another friend, I knew the master cylinder had to be replaced with the unit from the latest batch of Dukes. I thought of deferring that purchase and see what I could manage with just a flush and bleed of brakes.

The old brake fluid. It was bad.

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Brake feel improved a lot post flush and bleed. I decided to leave them as is and postpone replacing the front master cylinder.

New handguards are in!



So are the stickers. Glossy black and white parts got a polish and looked much better than before.




Earlier this year, I went into the nearby tyre store to get a slow leak on my car's tyre fixed. I strolled inside their warehouse and spotted these





I immediately called my friend, he came in the next day and got these tyres for the Duke.
 

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2013 KTM Duke 390
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Fast forward to 2nd week of August, I get a call from my friend. He told me he's barely using the bike and wants me to have it so it can be utilised well.

This took me back - he knew very well I was on the lookout for another early Duke 390 and we had talks of going on rides together. It turns out the pillion seat is uncomfortable for hiw wife and he will get something else that is more comfy for her.

I did not need convincing - I took the train and visited my friend's place the following week. He did tell me the bike wouldn't start and he had recently replaced the battery with a new unit in May. This got me thinking as to what the culprit could be. I pushed him more, he checked again and told me the dash lights up fine but all he hears is a click when he tries to start the bike. Good news, it might just be the battery. I made sure to take my Ctek charger with me.

I visted his place and the first thing I did was swap the battery with one from my other bike. I was relieved when the duke started up! Phew!

So we went upstairs, conntected the duke's battery to the ctek. 6 hours later, the battery was fully charged.

The duke is home, next to my big bore Apache.



First impressions - the brakes simply dont work.This is when I made the call to change the front brake master cylinder, something that I had put off last time. Unfortunately though, two KTM dealers around me did not have it in stock. The next best thing would be to give the brake fluid a good flush and bleed. As luck would have it, I only had ~100ml of brake fluid with me. I did manage to bleed and flush the front using just 50ml and the result wan instantaneous with a better brake feel that a lever that did not feel like using drum brakes. However the remaining 50ml was not enough to flush out the rear brakes and the fluid in the rear was HORRIBLE - it resembled black coffee and I am not exaggerating.

Next, the chain was bone dry with all links being rusted. Picked up a can of Motul chain lube and gave the chain a good spray. Gave the chain another soaking the following day to make sure it was lubed well. Went to the NGK authorised retailer and bought a LKAR8AI-9 plug as well.

With the brakes working somewhat, I rode out back to my home town. Stopped at a lake for some pictures





I saw another problem once I reached home. Water in the meter. Sigh.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The first order of business was a good wash! It rained well on the way so the bike did get fairly dirty. There was a lot of muck on the rear alloy from the excess chain lube so that needed to be cleaned off as well.



Took the bike out for a spin



After a thorough cleanup, I noticed there was a lot of oil around the outer edges of the clutch and magnet covers as well as lot of oil on the belly pan. I suspected few oil leaks.

Next, I took out the pads of both front and rear calipers, gave them a good inspect and clean. The pads were fairly new with tons of life left. I did hear that the new 390 Adventure came with Brembo sintered metal brake pads and I did have that in my list of upgrades.

Both calipers got a general helping of copper grease



One of my pet peeves is hatred towards rusty bolts. Almost every bolt on the bike was rusted so they will be replaced with better ones.

no. Just no



New Stainless Steel M6x35 bolts for both sides. Much better!



Made a trip to the local KTM dealer and bought these parts : Front and rear brake master cylinders, slipper clutch, Fuel, oil filters with new orings and new clutch and magnet cover gaskets. Not pictured were new valve cover gaskets.



Starting off with front brakes - The fluid had already turned cloudy, this is with just 2 days and one ride! I feel much better at deciding to replace the whole MC by now.



Fresh fluid throughout the front circuit now.


Next up was replacing the rear brake MC



So the new fluid mixed with the old and the entire thing still resembled black coffee


While I am very good and bleeding brakes, this puzzled me till no end. I passed nearly 100ml of fluid through reverse bleeding and yet I had no pressure whatsoever. My last refuge was a trick local mechanics here do - pump and hold the pedal while quickly loosening then tightening the MC banjo bolt. I did that with nothing to lose and it helped! There was finally a tiiiny amount of pressure though the system now. I ditched the reverse bleed process and decided to pass fluid through the old fashioned way. About 50ml in, a HUGE amount of air just came out of the caliper bleed nipple and I was so relieved! Kept doing same till I got no more bubbles.

I ended up using only about 60ml for the front and the remainder 440ml went into bleeding rear brakes. Oh well they're sharper than they were ever before and I will take that as a win. I had an accident where the syringe came off and I ended up spraying brake fluid everywhere. a cleanup was in order and that's why water and soap all around.



I then took off the belly pan and cleaned the underside thoroughly to make sure I could find out any new oil leaks post replacing gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I forgot to include the final link in my previous post and I don't see an option to edit posts. Sigh here we go.



I spoke with my local mechanic to swap out the valve cover gaskets, slipper clutch and clutch, magnet gaskets.

The spark plug hole had oil in it. I did not expect this but it should get solved with all new gaskets. Replaced the Plug with a NGK LKAR8AI-9



The cams and everything else under the valve cover looked good. The red oil looked like Motul 7100.



Slipper clutch went in along with new gaskets.



The mechanic pointed out one of the clamps holding the exhaust had broken off and there was a strange gash/hole with exhaust leaking out.

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The exhaust was taken out and welded up. Turns out one of the rubber bushes on the bottom mount disintegrated, that caused the exhaust to be tilted and broke off one of the clamp. No explanation for the hole though. The KTM dealer did not have new rubber bushes but he managed to put in a rubber bush of similar dimensions for now till I get the original part.

I then poured in 1.5L of Motul 300V 15W50 and headed home.

Next day, I made up a ghetto OBD2 adaptor



I check on fault codes and there was one staring at me - P0130 indicating a faulty O2 sensor. I cleared it but it soon reappeared. I did fire up realtime stats on torque and I could see the O2 voltage cycling. Was the O2 sensor really gone bad?

I decided to change it anyway. However, the KTM service did not have it in stock. I was wondering if any Bajaj bike had it as well.

So I got checking. The O2 sensor's part number is JG511010



Turns out a Bajaj bike with engine similar to the 390 had the same part number for its O2 sensor.


I headed to the main Bajaj dealer and he had it in stock.

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The Bosch part number for both old and new O2 sensors are exactly the same. I also got the rubber bushes which it turns out a 200cc variant had it in common.

Changed the O2 sensor. Plugged it back. Fired up torque, cleared the code and started the bike. The code popped back again. Ugh whats happening?

I then installed OBDlink on my phone. Strangely this one did not report any faults. Right now I've left this as it is.

I filled up the bike with some 95 octane gas - coupled with new oil and slipper clutch, the bike has become lot smoother and more of a joy to ride!
 

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wow this is cool, The engine looks not that bad to work on. even putting on new timing chain access to top and bottom like that. Makes me not worry was much about buying a used one.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you check the valve clearance while you had all that off? Looks pretty good inside the head.
No, I didn't. I should have, but this slipped out of my mind. Oh well I will check for it next time.

Next on the list of fixes was the speedometer. The Set button broke off soon and I put a patch of duct tape on both buttons to ensure no water goes in. I did want to take apart the speedo, inspect what went wrong and make amends.

I took off the meter from the bike, took off 3 screws holding the trim piece and I was greeted to this sight



So someone used double sided tape. The first owner must have complained of rattles and this was their fix.

Turning the meter around I saw some distressing signs. This looked like a Synthetic Rubber adhesive used locally that goes by the name Fevibond.



Turns out they used Fevibond to join the two ends of the o-ring string that made up the gasket. I have no idea why it even spilled out. No wonder there were many issues with speedos of earlier dukes failing so often. I'm surprised mine is still functional after all this time



Fortunately I have a roll of new 2mm o-ring string to make up a new gasket.

It was measured to length



Both ends joined together with CA glue as it should have been. The old perished seal is next to the new one



Inside of the lens had etch marks from the condensate settling on the lens. Both the inside and outside of the lens was polished, all scratches from the outside were removed.



I kept the speedo open for a day to make sure all the water inside had evaporated. In hindsight, I should have added a small packet of silica gel to ensure the inside was completely free of moisture. The new o-ring was lubricated with silicone to give it a better chance of survival.



While the speedo was out, I had problems with the headlight. The low beam was not working when I got the bike. Going by occam's razor, I bought a new headlight bulb and replaced the old part. I did notice the old bulb's low beam filament was intact but I did not think much of it as the low beam worked with new bulb.

Few days later, the low beam wouldn't work. It did again intermittently and I suspected something else was bad. There was a 4 pin connector connecting the headlight plug to the harness, two pins in it looked corroded/full of something weird. I did not have a can of electric contact cleaner, I then depinned each of the 4+4 pins, cleaned them with IPA and a brush then put them back. This seems to have fixed the issue for now.



The speedo goes back in! Love the clear display now.

 

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Duke 390. Surprising huh…..
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Good stuff - on all work so far 😎 Pics say a thousand words too 👍 Bike is gonna be an absolutely fabulous example by the time you’ve finished your great work.

Like you perhaps: I’ve already swapped ‘hundreds’ of original bolts / fixings over for Stainless…..and some Titanium….too.

So your engine casing ‘notes’ caught my eye. As something I’ve not managed yet for whatever reason.

I know you noted down that they were M6 x 35. Is that true of ALL the casing bolts - on both sides ?

And I presume you had no troubles with leaks - presumably taking one bolt out at a time and swapping old over for new ?

Thankyou. And carry on the GREAT work 🙏
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I know you noted down that they were M6 x 35. Is that true of ALL the casing bolts - on both sides ?
Well yes - 12 bolts on the clutch side and 12 bolts on the magnet side are M6 x 35. The sprocket cover needs 3x M6x50 bolts in addition to 12 M6x35.

Water pump needs 5x M6x20 bolts. I have the older casing so my oil filter cover has M5 bolts.

This is how they look right now





And I presume you had no troubles with leaks - presumably taking one bolt out at a time and swapping old over for new ?
That's how I changed the bolts. Few bolt holes started leaking out oil when I was changing them over, this was another indication I had a bad gasket, thus I changed both.
 

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Great info - ta !

Sprocket was done when I fitted a Carbon Fibre cover. So looks like ‘just’ the 6 x 35’s for engine cases and 6 x 20’s for the Water pump will do me. Brill 👌 **(I’ll see what’s in the Stainless Stores at work tomorrow 🤣 )

Plenty of pics on various bits / upgrades / fixings etc I’ve swapped over on my thread. You might find some small bit of inspiration - as I did from you:


Good luck and thanks again !
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So looks like ‘just’ the 6 x 35’s for engine cases and 6 x 20’s for the Water pump will do me. Brill 👌 **(I’ll see what’s in the Stainless Stores at work tomorrow 🤣 )
The parts catalog I refer to also has the sizes mentioned in them. That will also be an useful resource for anyone swapping nuts and bolts





 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The one point I forgot to mention before is I have another hobby I'm into and that's Detailing.

I want to ideally strip down the whole bike, clean everything, restore whatever that can be restored otherwise paint/replace then ceramic coat everything so maintaining it would be easy.

First off, I need the bike to be stable and not on the side stand all the time. Rummaged around what I had, couple of M10 bolts, M12 nuts and jack stands came in handy



Since the belly pan was out and I cleaned the underside of the engine, it was the first to receive some ceramic coat. Clutch side of the engine was done as well. I later noticed I did not clean a portion under the water pump, this will be fixed soon.



Belly pan was cleaned of years of oil and mud, it was also given the ceramic treatment inside and out



Rear shock absorber, swingarm and clutch side of the engine were next. They were given a deep clean first



Plastic pieces now look real nice, especially the chain cover - it's finally back to black.



All the parts back together



It rained the next evening. The ceramic coat is working as expected with lovely beads all around



Getting a correct replacement for the shock protector bolt thingy was tricky. Ended up using M6x10 CSK bolts with an anodised aluminium washer. The original bolt is a M6x8 and my steel guy did not have anything smaller than 10mm. The special washer was sanded and given a coat of zinc again since it had already rusted outThe bolt holding the rear shock was also changed to a SS unit with a SS nylock nut on the other side



Replaced the clutch lever with an adjustable unit as well. The pivot bolt hold on the old lever had become oval and had lot of slop in it. Shout out to @Syer Shulver , master cylinder cap has M4x12 CSK SS allen bolts ;)



Next was the exhaust.

The KTM dealer did not have new rubber bushes but he managed to put in a rubber bush of similar dimensions for now till I get the original part.
I did get the new bushes and it was the reason why the exhaust came off so I could swap it out. The temporary bush put in its place had already started melting



End can got few coats of black hi temp paint. The pipe got a very thorough clean (no abrasives were used) and it revealed some shiny metal behind it.



Took the pipe to the next level with some more polishing and ending with a pass with Mothers metal polish for the mirror finish



 

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The one point I forgot to mention before is I have another hobby I'm into and that's Detailing.

I want to ideally strip down the whole bike, clean everything, restore whatever that can be restored otherwise paint/replace then ceramic coat everything so maintaining it would be easy.

First off, I need the bike to be stable and not on the side stand all the time. Rummaged around what I had, couple of M10 bolts, M12 nuts and jack stands came in handy



Since the belly pan was out and I cleaned the underside of the engine, it was the first to receive some ceramic coat. Clutch side of the engine was done as well. I later noticed I did not clean a portion under the water pump, this will be fixed soon.



Belly pan was cleaned of years of oil and mud, it was also given the ceramic treatment inside and out



Rear shock absorber, swingarm and clutch side of the engine were next. They were given a deep clean first



Plastic pieces now look real nice, especially the chain cover - it's finally back to black.



All the parts back together



It rained the next evening. The ceramic coat is working as expected with lovely beads all around



Getting a correct replacement for the shock protector bolt thingy was tricky. Ended up using M6x10 CSK bolts with an anodised aluminium washer. The original bolt is a M6x8 and my steel guy did not have anything smaller than 10mm. The special washer was sanded and given a coat of zinc again since it had already rusted outThe bolt holding the rear shock was also changed to a SS unit with a SS nylock nut on the other side



Replaced the clutch lever with an adjustable unit as well. The pivot bolt hold on the old lever had become oval and had lot of slop in it. Shout out to @Syer Shulver , master cylinder cap has M4x12 CSK SS allen bolts ;)



Next was the exhaust.



I did get the new bushes and it was the reason why the exhaust came off so I could swap it out. The temporary bush put in its place had already started melting



End can got few coats of black hi temp paint. The pipe got a very thorough clean (no abrasives were used) and it revealed some shiny metal behind it.



Took the pipe to the next level with some more polishing and ending with a pass with Mothers metal polish for the mirror finish



Continued great work. A man to my own heart: ‘Do it once - do it properly”……👌

Those shiny new fixings become a fetish right quick don’t they !

At least there not a fully time hobby - like keeping bits mirror polished will be 🤣🤣🤣

Great stuff my friend 👌
 

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Nice work @JingalalaHoe, will look like new when you're done!

What ceramic coating are you using on the engine case?

First time I've seen this shock protector. How is it attached? Just held in place by the spring? I think it might be better fitted at the top instead? The mini fender/hugger is already protecting the bottom half...



The OEM piece I have comes down from above.

 

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What is ceramic coating? Just marketing or actual ceramic? It cleans and protects?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What is ceramic coating? Just marketing or actual ceramic? It cleans and protects?
Ceramic as in its technically a much harder clear coat and costs of silica. It will protect better than any wax/sealant but the surface has to be very very very clean for it to stick and last. Once applied, cleaning becoems a breeze, usually just blasting with a power washer is enough to completely clean the surface instead of having to go through with a brush. Plus it has the added side effect of darkening plastics (as seen on the chain cover)

What ceramic coating are you using on the engine case?
Its some aliexpress special I've had for a while which isn't really good enough to use on big painted panels however it works very well when applying thick on small panels like engine cases and plastics.

First time I've seen this shock protector. How is it attached? Just held in place by the spring? I think it might be better fitted at the top instead? The mini fender/hugger is already protecting the bottom half...
It's a part of the shock absorber. The 2016 RC390 in India came with this shock absorber and is a straight fit on older/newer dukes.

Is that new rear shock bolt of a suitable grade? Can't quite make out the markings on the head.
I had a look again and its a grade 7.0. The threads on the old bolt had gone bad, it wasn't possible to fully torque the nut on it. Hence the replacement
Those shiny new fixings become a fetish right quick don’t they !
Haha shiny things have always been a long obsession for me. When the first lockdown hit, I had lots of free time, I took apart my car's engine bay as much as I could, cleaned, polished and ceramic coated absolutely everything on it - I took a week to do it up slowly. I had already swapped out all the fasteners on it for new ones ;) This car and engine bay was 13 years old at the time of filming the video


With the exhaust out, this finally gave me space to clean the left side of the head and block. The area around the exhaust header and behind the engine were also given a deep clean



Area behind the engine was given a deep clean too, removing all the old chain lube and returning the chassis back to orange was therapeutic



Rear plastic wheel guard? was taken off along with rear grab handles, the area was given a good clean. Removed all lube gunk from the sprocket carrier and around it as well, it spilled over and ended up cleaning the rear wheel as well. The rear wheel has some marks, will polish it out before coating it. Grab handles will be painted matte black.

 

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oh ok cool, How long does it last?
 
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