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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Went on a breakfast trip to a nearby hill station. Few pictures!









Total run was 214+ KMs, there was a lot of instances where speedo dropped and stayed at 0. Need to check the root cause soon.



I've ordered a new meter shell so will be taking apart this meter again next week.
Finally got it. I did not get too lucky, it has a few scratches. Oh well, scratches are better than holes



Once a year we clean and line up all out automobiles to thank them for their service and many more years of trouble free riding. Here's a family picture

 

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BTW: Those handlebar rubbers the bars are mounted on are notorious for being loose. Been there (Documented on my thread I’m sure). I’ve even read f some ‘rattling’ straight from the Factory….

Not the easiest things to be able to ‘feel’ how much to tighten either. Although there is a Nyloc nut on the bolts - so even though the torque to tighten / get rid of any slack is low. They shouldn’t come loose easily….

Fingers crossed
I recently swapped out the rubber pieces for the MNNTHBX aluminum pieces.

 

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I recently swapped out the rubber pieces for the MNNTHBX aluminum pieces.

That’s a better idea (for me…..) More solid, more direct blah blah. And I don’t do enough miles to ever benefit from the damping the rubber provides.

Infact for as few miles as I do - I probably suffered more from the extra vibrations / shaking I got when they were / worked loose 🤣

How are you finding them ?
 

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Had them in a drawer for a couple years and finally decided to put them on. Happy with the result, definitely feel more connected, less flex, but it's subtle.

I think i bought them on clearance at ~$9, but they're only $5 now!

 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
After the first outing, I realised there was too much play in the clutch level and it was moving up and down too much. So I put in a M6 washer of the right thickness under the lever and that made it reasonably tight. If I tightened it all the way, the lever would start binding, I had to back off half a turn after getting it fully tight.



This meant I ended up adjusting the clutch cable slack too, having a 19mm spanner made moving the clutch arm so easy.



Replaced all the fake bolts on the fuel cap with real ones. Used M5x12 Allen bolts with regular M5 nuts underneath to hold the fake ones in place. The 3 Allen bolts that held the gas cap needed M5x40mm long bolts.



Fake bolts with nuts BARELY clear the underside. Its better to use thinner nuts if you get them.



The meter cover I received had a LOT of scratches on the transparent section. This was absolutely unacceptable for me



Some time spent with my rotary and a 2 inch pad, this was the end result. It isn't perfect but it will do just fine



Looks good and all set!



Plugged it back on the bike and the low beams worked. I then realised a small mod I could do to make the switch more reliable, however I'll leave it for another day. The low beam seemed dimmer than the high beam, it could either be the extra resistance or the low beam being 5W lesser than high beam (60W vs 55W) but this will do for today.
I posted this and the ****ing headlight stopped working.

Since the headlight was removed for swapping the meter cover, I took off the left switch assy as well.

Disassembled the switch



Lo-Hi switch taken apart. There is a small spring not in the picture, between the triangular metal piece and the black plastic switch



I then realised a small mod I could do to make the switch more reliable, however I'll leave it for another day.
It was adding a 3x1 o-ring o the base of the spring, so there is more tension and the triangular plate makes better contact. This worked! The switch is now slightly stiffer but its worked and keeps working after about 50 cycles.



The pass switch was feeling very rough, as if it was full of sand. Opoened it to clean and it indeed was. I used up some krytox 205 lube for the switch, it was leftover from another hobby of mine. Put back everything together and it feels muuch smoother.



Finally a friend visited the USA for couple of weeks and he got me this



To complement this, Ive ordered new OEM rotors for both front and back. I already have the new ABS rings as well as all new bolts to freshen up this section too
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Well, the bike has been chugging along and there is not much to report nowadays.

This morning I gave the bike a wash and checked on brake fluids. The front caliper had one bubble of air in the caliper and forced it out. The brake feel has improved a bit, especially at the initial stages of pressing the brake lever. The rear brake fluid in the reseervoir had turned yellow when the new fluid I had replaced was clear. I passed thru about 60ml of brake fluid through the system and it became clear again.

I'm still on the hunt for a rear caliper minor rebuild kit so I can take out the piston and replace the seals. I want to delay hanging everything on the rear ( new rotor, abs rings, all fasteners and brake pads) until I get the seals. I'm actually getting second thoughts of whether I want to replace the seals? there is nothing outwardly wrong with it

To complement this, Ive ordered new OEM rotors for both front and back. I already have the new ABS rings as well as all new bolts to freshen up this section too
I received new rotors but I am also tempted to try the brembo sintered brake pads on the old rotors once. I might get them - I'm debating this sicne the last 2 weeks and I can't come to a conclusion if I want to get brembo pads and try it out, or just swap rotor to new unit and use up with EBC HH pads.

Total run was 214+ KMs, there was a lot of instances where speedo dropped and stayed at 0. Need to check the root cause soon.
So this got much much worse and 80% of the time the speedo stayed at 0. I had resigned tot he fact I have to live with a bike with a defective speedo.

I had been suspecting a bad battery lately, I assumed the battery was down on charge. Took off the seats and hooked on the Ctek and it immediately went on standby, which meant the battery was on full charge? Since the seats were out, I had a look at the fuse box, took out all the fuses, inspected if any were blown. Many of the fuses had "fused" onto the holder, as in they were never taken out of their slots. I sanded down the fuse legs a bit before putting them back as there was oxidation on all of their legs.

Started the bike and rode away. I immediately noticed the speedo was working and working very well. Went on an hour's ride and the speedo never went to 0! t this point, I'm not sure what fixed it, was it just taking out the fuses and cleaning the contacts? I honestly don't know but I feel that had something to do with it.

Visited the KTM service center today and the belly pan + brackets I had ordered have arrived. I'll ceramic coat these and install it sometime later



Few miscellaneous pictures of the bikes from recent rides





 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Once I posted the previous update, I suddenly had an urge to work on the bike even more. It also helped I had the whole morning free today.

So decided to tackle cleaning the throttle body. This was on top of the things to do when I first bought the bike, however I was put off because of the sheer number of things that needs to come off the bike just to take it out.

I made up my mind and started early in the morning. Surprisingly it didn't take long to remove all the panels and then the airbox. I couldn't get the cable for the seat lock out despite removing the clip, so I kept the plastic piece on the chassis itself.



The throttle body, as expected, was caked up in carbon





Even the holes for the IVAC and injector were full of carbon



Port for the MAP sensor had a layer of varnish in it



Intake ports looked excellent. No caked on residue anywhere. The exhaust ports looked similar when I had taken out the exhaust so I'm very happy about the way the engine is right now.

To begin with cleaning the throttle body, I took out the MAP sensor, IVAC stepper motor and the injector. I left the TPS on the throttle body - I took out the TPS from my car's TB few years ago and it was a royal pain to put it back together.

Since any rubber/plastic parts around the throttle body were removed, I attacked the insides with Acetone. All the carbon on the venturi and throttle plate came off right away. I used some q tips to clean out the 2 passages that go into the stepper motor port, they came out very nice and shiny.

Next, I cleaned the outside with some all purpose cleaner and water. Got the outside looking good, then I doused the insides with some 99% iso propyl alcohol - it has a propensity to absorb water so any water that went inside the TB passages when cleaning the exteriors will get absorbed by it.

The results were excellent. See it for yourself!







MAP sensor and stepper motor had a LOT of gunk on them



Cleaned them with IPA. I was careful not to touch the center portions of the MAP sensor, I just scrapped off all the carbon from the surrounding cage then sprayed IPA on the sensor few times



Used some Dow Corning grease to lubricate the o-rings on all the sensors and injector before putting them back into the throttle body. I left the injector alone this time.



With the throttle body done, my focus was back on the chassis. It had a lot of dust on it owing to the bike being 9 years old. SO this time I gave the entire chassis a good clean, every nook and cranny of the orange frame was cleaned in detail



Lots of wiring harness tape had started to come off, the glue had gone bad.



Peeled off all the bad tape and I taped them back using Tesa 51036 Engine Loom tape.



My focus the turned towards the airbox. It was very common for airboxes to crack - thankfully mine was crack free. There was some oil deposited below - another complaint. The seals below were all intact so I'm guessing the oil deposits were from the loose crankcase breather.

I was having a look at the breathers and the insides had a bit of "milkshake". I doused the inside with IPA and some of it came out. I also noticed that the breathers for both crancase and head were connected? I also saw the markings on it ( B for head vent and D for crankcase vent ) and was feeling suspicious if this was some kind of simple air-oil separator for vapours coming from the head with oil draining back via crankcase breather? Oh well.



Soon I put back everything on the bike, primed the bike about 4 times and it immediately started up with no errors. The behaviour of the bike is pretty much unchanged from before, however the bike seems to start a fraction quicker - requiring less cranking.

I'm still on the hunt for a rear caliper minor rebuild kit so I can take out the piston and replace the seals.
I went to a bajaj dealer and I got a seal kit for a pulsar. Pretty much all bajaj and dukes use the same rear caliper so it should work, hopefully. I popped into the KTM dealership and got couple of new front caliper bolts since the old ones looked tired. Once I was back home, I remembered I should have gotten a new battery belt as the one on the bike now is close to breaking. Oh well, there is always a next time.



Hopefully on Sunday I'll get to finally tackle the rear end and refresh it!

Went on an hour's ride and the speedo never went to 0! t this point, I'm not sure what fixed it, was it just taking out the fuses and cleaning the contacts? I honestly don't know but I feel that had something to do with it.
I celebrated too early, now whatever I've done has brought back the issue. Its not as bad but the speedo does go to 0 few times now. I suspect its the battery, I'll get it replaced with a new one next week as its still under warranty. Hopefully this will fix it
 

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@JingalalaHoe - isn’t it ‘funny’. Back in the old days your car / bike / ride on lawnmower was starting and running just fine until one (cold) morning it just refused to start. Maybe you gave it one last try by charging it overnight: but a few days later you realise the damned battery just won’t hold a charge and needs replacing.

These days it doesn’t matter if I’m on the Porsche forum I use, the RenaultSport forum or here: a post by someone who’s vehicle is showing the first sign of electrical gremlins - someone always recommends a new battery. And often rightly so !!

These modern vehicles are so sensitive to voltage drop and so heavily rely on constant, full power - any less and they spit their dummy out and light up the dash like a Christmas tree.

Placebo (?) 🤷‍♂️…….but many on different forums talk of new / uprated batteries fitted gets people saying the feeling was like it’s given their cars / bikes some extra pep. Almost like a very mild Dyno Tune !

All I know from experience is a battery in tip top shape is Uber important on modern vehicles.

Great work as always btw. Good Luck with the new battery / speedo issue….👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Hopefully on Sunday I'll get to finally tackle the rear end and refresh it!
So I got started on Sunday working on the rear brakes. This is how the old stuff looked



First step was taking off the wheel. I had never taken off a rear wheel before - I struggled a LOT with it. I just knew for some reason I'd suck at this and I did not disappoint myself heh. Hopefully I don't ever have to remove the rear wheel again!

Took off the old rotor and ABS ring. This is 9 years of muck hidden behind the rotor



After few rounds of cleaning



Things weren't so clean on the other side as well. There was a TON of rubber powder? as well as melted rubber.



Gave it a round of cleaning too and came up well



Insides of swingarm were given a deep clean, all old traces of chain lube and dirt were removed



With wheels done, I focussed back on the caliper. I made sure I removed the pads and extended the piston as much as possible by pumping on the pedal as much as possible.I pulled out the caliper and found the insides pretty clean with only few black flakes.



The new caliper seal I bought was loose. Sigh. The smaller square seal was fine but the main square seal was very loose.



The old seals weren't leaking anyway so kept them as is. The piston had some kind of damage? It had a significant lip that stopped the piston from going back in. Filed off the excess and I could put it back in the caliper.



Rear caliper ready for reassembly. The caliper now moves far far smoother with the proper lubricant for the pins. Replaced the bleed screw with a new unit since the old one was almost rounded.



New parts going in - Rotor, pads, ABS rings, bolts for ABS rings, rotor bolts and new cush rubbers. I painted the rotor with the same color as the silver I've used on foot rests.



New parts were all assembled and it was time to put the wheel back in. While struggling with the spacer that goes on the sprocket hub, I noticed what looked like two balls just hanging out just inside the oil seal? So I took out the oil seal was greeted to this



Few days back, I had adjusted the chain and tightened it. While riding it, I heard a loud BANG when moving around 20KMPH. I slowed and stopped, but couldn't find anything wrong and carried on. A day alter, I asked my mech why does my chain whine a LOT after tightening it? He told me I had over tightened the chain and now its making a racket. oh well, I thought I could fix it during the rear overhaul but oh boy was I wrong...

Next day, I tool the sprocket hub to my mechanic. He used his tools to take out the old bearing race that was stuck inside. It was time to put in a new bearing - A 6005RS. But wait, its too small. What's going on?

The Indian parts catalog clearly says its a 6005RS (highlighted in yellow) but it doesn't fit. Turns out I needed a 6205. Even the nuts holding the sprocket are mentioned as M10x1.25 (highlighted in pink) but in reality they are M8 nuts. So I bought a pack of 6 M8 ss nyloc nuts to replace the plain black ones.



The EU/USA parts catalog had the right dimensions and parts. It's rare to see a mistake at this level though



The old oil/dust seal for the sprocket bearing was CAKED with metal shavings and parts of the bearing cage. Both KTM and Bajaj service centers did not have the new part so had to clean and reuse the old seal. The inner lip is damaged in couple of spots. I have placed an order for a new seal and will replace it whenever it arrives.

Rear is finally done and assembled back. Bleeding the rear caliper as always was a B***H but it was done.



With the rears done, I wanted to finish off the front as well. Propped up the front using two more jack stands on the leg guards and took off the wheel



New parts for the front. This time I went with matte black for the front rotor like the new dukes



Everything put back together. Phew.



The excessive paint wore off almost immediately. This left nice clean lines where the pads don't make contact and will prevent that part of unused rotor from rusting in the future. The rear brakes are now more effective than before BUT they still suck. At this point I have overhauled everything in the rear brake circuit except for the ABS pump. Oh well, the front feels much better thanks to the new rotor and EBC HH pads.

There are more electrical gremlins. The horn stopped working after one honk, I suspect some water got into the fuse box, caused a short and blew the fuse. Turning on the key sometimes does not turn on the speedo console and I have to turn off then on, it works. Pressing the start button there is half a crank, everything goes silent for half a second, crank resumes and bike starts. I'm guessing its the bad battery that's causing these problems. I'll be out of towen this weekend and will give the battery for replacement during that time. It takes few days for it to complete so I should get the new battery once I'm back.

Oh, the rear seat lock refused to work at the KTM service center when I went to buy a new battery belt. Putting the seat back and pressing did nothing. Rode back slowly to my mechanic, he had a look and said the locking portion isnt retracting to lock the seat and needs replacing. Oh great more parts to replace. Sigh. I later tried again and the seat locked!! Opened it up, tried again to be sure and it worked again lol. I'll open the bottom panel and probably grease the lock again. If the problem recurs, I'll replace it.
 

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^^^Good work.

Yes I sucked at removing that sucker of a rear wheel that sucks wanting to come out when I swapped my discs out for Wavy jobs…..

I ended up unbolting the rear fixing of the chain guard - so I could go in at an angle toward the gear-lever; and avoid the rear Caliper. That hugely reduced the swear-words being used 😂

You encountered a few problems in there ! Sounds like you got round all of them one way or another 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I ended up unbolting the rear fixing of the chain guard - so I could go in at an angle toward the gear-lever; and avoid the rear Caliper. That hugely reduced the swear-words being used 😂
Yes, I ended up taking out the one bolt at the rear of the chain guard and it made it easy for me too!

Now that I've had time to reflect, I think I've realised where I was going wrong...

First off, I'm using jack stands to prop up the rear. The tilted V sections (?) of the jackstands protrude into the wheel area and it made removing and fitting back the wheel infinitely hard. I definitely wouldn't have struggled so much if I used a proper paddock stand

Second, I had this irrational fear of not putting the chain on again properly, what if I put the chain one link off? I feel I've already destroyed the sprocket bearing by over tightening the chain, what else will go wrong due to my cockups? putting the sprocket carrier back on the wheel with the chain attached was never happening.

I did not do proper research into removing wheels off the duke before attempting it. I should have watched a few videos before hand. Hopefully I'll do a better job next time - I'll have to take off the wheel again soon to replace the bad sprocket bearing dust cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I was out riding today and got stuck in a big pocket of traffic jam. The temp went up to 9 bars with the fan kicking in. I then stopped at a gas station for fuel and was stationary for about 5 minutes with the engine off while waiting my turn. I filled up the tank all the way up and as the petrol stopped, one of the attendants pointed out some fluid, they assumed it was petrol, flowing from under the tank.

I kinda guessed it wasn't petrol, since I've routed the overflow pipe for it on the left side, away from the exhaust. I felt the fluid which had leaked out and it was definitely coolant. Parked the bike on the side and looked around, there was no leaks from any hose or the thermostat. The fluid level on the overflow bottle was above MAX so I'm pretty sure that's where the coolant came from. After another couple of minutes, it reduced to the max level. I started the bike and set off, I did not have any leaks afterwards.



The other day, I noticed coolant level on overflow tank was bang in the middle of low and high, I topped it upto high. Now the fluid level after the bike cooled down is in the middle as well. Is there a cause for concern for today's overflowing or should I ignore it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
I had to go to another town for a few days for work and decided to use the bike instead of the train. Managed to put about 400KMs and had a great time on the highway.

While I was at the town I checked out another KTM service and got the Sprocket/Coupling dust deal! Also got a set of husqvarna indicators and brembo sintered brake pads as spare.



Got the wheels balanced as well. The front was perfect without any weights, rear needed about 45g





A picture from the ride back



It was finally time to swap out the indicators. Broken standard indicators held together with ugly blobs of tape





New husqvarna indicators. They look so much better and won't break so easily. Old indicators have some sort of inline resistor pack? new ones don't









New indicators (right) are much brighter and have larger spread than the standard ones (left)

 

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Indicators looking GOOD.
I'll check them out when in Bangkok next week.
Are the resistors now inside the unit rather than in the wire?

I had to go to another town for a few days for work and decided to use the bike instead of the train. Managed to put about 400KMs and had a great time on the highway.

While I was at the town I checked out another KTM service and got the Sprocket/Coupling dust deal! Also got a set of husqvarna indicators and brembo sintered brake pads as spare.



Got the wheels balanced as well. The front was perfect without any weights, rear needed about 45g





A picture from the ride back



It was finally time to swap out the indicators. Broken standard indicators held together with ugly blobs of tape





New husqvarna indicators. They look so much better and won't break so easily. Old indicators have some sort of inline resistor pack? new ones don't









New indicators (right) are much brighter and have larger spread than the standard ones (left)

 
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