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Discussion Starter #1
Here's my review of the SW-Motech crash bars available in Australia from Motorrad Garage, www.motorradgarage.com.au.

I decided to get these bars instead of the KTM Power Parts Crash Bars (or the copies) for 3 reasons:

1).. The SW-Motech ones fit a lot higher on the frame & I think would give much better protection to the radiator in the event of a fall.
2).. In my opinion they are much less obvious once installed.
3).. I like to be different !

Purchasing was simple from the Motorrad Garage website. The bars arrived within a week and were very well packaged. Inside the box were the 2 crash bars, all fasteners needed & a detailed set of fitting instructions. The bars themselves looked great... very well made with meaty welds & powdercoated in a satin black finish. First impression is that they are HEAVY.. heavier than I expected & weigh-in at around 900g each, but I have no experience with other brands of crash bars to compare them to.

You'll need 2 x 14mm sockets & ratchet bars, a 15mm socket, an 8mm Allen key, a 10mm Allen key & a tube of thread locker.

These crash bars bolt to the front 3 engine mount locations, so just follow the instructions & start on the LHS one first. Remove the lower through bolt then the 2 upper socket head bolts. Fit the LH crash guard using the spacers & new bolts provided in the kit, apply thread locker & loosely bolt it up. Repeat on the RHS. Once everything is fitted loosely, tighten everything to the torque specs.

Stand back and admire !

The whole installation takes a leisurely 25 minutes from the time you unlock the shed.

Hope this helps.
 

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I considered Motech's crash bars also, but ended up with the originals, as they were already bolted on to the bike I bought. Based on the pictures I found then, it seemed like Motech's should give better protection on low sider situations... Have you tried which parts would touch the ground first in case the bike lays down on the ground? :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hei,

I eyeballed a planes between:

- The crash bar, the swingarm bobbin & the pillion handrail.
- The crash bar, the swingarm bobbin & the rear tyre.
- The crash bar, the front fork bobbin & the handlebar end.
- The crash bar, the front fork bobbin & the front tyre.

and in these cases everything expensive seemed to be protected. Foot controls might cop a beating in any case.

The engine cases looked vulnerable in a plane between the crash bar, the the swingarm bobbin & the front fork bobbin, but I believe its very unlikely the bike would slide touching those 3 points 'coz I reckon it'll fall over more.
 

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I like those crash bars. They'll certainly provide more protection than frame sliders (crash mushrooms).

Can you confirm if those crash bars won't drag at high lean angles, in a track environment?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There's absolutely no chance of the SW-Motech bars hitting the ground @ high lean angles.
 

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Hey Phil,

I had a question about removing the 15mm nut and bolt. Mine will NOT give. Instead of a ratchet, I even tried using the leverage of a long torque wrench set to ~65 lbs and nothing.

It won't budge.

Any tips?

Thanks,

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Alex,

Jeez mate, sound's like yours was tightened by an ape at the factory. From memory, mine was tight but not that bad. The factory in India are renowned for getting 'creative' with their torques so nothing surprises me. They also use a red thread-locking compound that's a bugger to break, so while mine didn't have any on it, yours might.

I'd go old school & spray the nut with a liberal amount of WD-40, CRC 5-56 etc. & leave it for a few hours before trying again. You might need to lean on it a bit harder to get it to looses but don't worry if you damage it 'coz it gets replaced by the one in the crash bar kit anyway. :)
 
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Thanks Phil!

Good to know I'm in the minority and not missing something obvious. I'll give it another go.

Anyone on this thread know anything about thread-locking compound? Would it help for the engine to be warm/hot and try again or will the heat only cause the aluminum to expand, tightening it even more?

Thanks!
 

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Alex, If you need to break loose a fastener secured with red threadlocker, conventional wisdom recommends heat from a propane torch to break the bond. Be careful and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Their stuff sure seems well designed and fabricated!
They are, but they ruin it right at the very end with the stickers they put on. They aren't curved to fit the tube very well, but thankfully they are very easily removed :)
 
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So, here the success story. Second attempt was a no go.

Third attempt...

I started the bike and waited until I got nearly full bars on the temp guage and the AUX fan came on. I turned of the bike, was mindful of the hot exhaust and main bolt came off like butter. It was very easy to get off. It appears that a very small amount of loctite is used.

That does the trick.

Hot tip: If it won't come off, warm up the engine first and try again. Don't strip the bolt or ruin your tools.

Good luck!
 

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They are, but they ruin it right at the very end with the stickers they put on. They aren't curved to fit the tube very well, but thankfully they are very easily removed :)
I like the stickers on mine and consider their contouring to be entirely satisfactory. Perhaps yours were fitted by the 16 year old apprentice :)

I have both the SW M crash bars and rack. Quality, design, fit , finish, instructions, packaging and value all very good in my opinion.

So, here the success story. Second attempt was a no go.

Third attempt...

I started the bike and waited until I got nearly full bars on the temp guage and the AUX fan came on. I turned of the bike, was mindful of the hot exhaust and main bolt came off like butter. It was very easy to get off. It appears that a very small amount of loctite is used.

That does the trick.

Hot tip: If it won't come off, warm up the engine first and try again. Don't strip the bolt or ruin your tools.

Good luck!
A nicely elegant solution !

Don't know if I would have thought of that, probably would have just reached for my propane heat gun.
 
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Does anyone know what the torque specs are?
 

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The directions don't mention anything about how much to torque the (6) bolts.
 

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Use the service manual and factory spec for those bolts.
 
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Found it! ??
 

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Can you confirm if those crash bars won't drag at high lean angles, in a track environment?
There's absolutely no chance of the SW-Motech bars hitting the ground @ high lean angles.
I eyeballed a planes between:

- The crash bar, the swingarm bobbin & the pillion handrail.
- The crash bar, the swingarm bobbin & the rear tyre.
- The crash bar, the front fork bobbin & the handlebar end.
- The crash bar, the front fork bobbin & the front tyre.

and in these cases everything expensive seemed to be protected. Foot controls might cop a beating in any case.

The engine cases looked vulnerable in a plane between the crash bar, the the swingarm bobbin & the front fork bobbin, but I believe its very unlikely the bike would slide touching those 3 points 'coz I reckon it'll fall over more.
Phil, I'm switching to the SW Motech bars from the KTM Powerparts-style Chinese bars I have currently. I dragged the right side ever so slightly at the track on Saturday so want to gain more clearance. Keep in mind this is with a lowered Duke (45mm F&R) so not expected otherwise.

My question is, per your comment above, do you still feel the engine cases are exposed?

If so, I'll look to order the R&G covers I think, but just the regular ones and not the Race version with replaceable pucks. I think with crash bars, it's unlikely the pucks would come into contact with the ground...
 

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I think the SW Motec bars, along with the new R&G engine case sliders, would be a very protective -and cost-effective - combination.
 
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