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Having just completed the valve adjustment procedure on my 390 Duke, a few observations.

1)

Thanks to @Luc again for his super comprehensive tutorial, having a load of detailed pics to refer to is certainly a useful supplement to the workshop manual. However it is worth pointing out that on my bike at least, the mark for TDC is a 'T' mark (Luc found something different on his). Still that's fairly incidental - essentially when the camshaft sprocket marks are in the correct position relative to the cylinder head, there will be a mark (of some sort) visible through the rotor inspection window and that mark (whatever it may be :) ) is your reference.

So, this for those of you NOT wanting to drain the cooling system and remove radiator entirely to check valve clearances:

Answering my own question re: radiator loosen vs remove.

Exhaust valves are checkable without totally draining and removing radiator. If radiator mounting nuts/washers are removed, the radiator can swing forward an inch or two, increasing available space and allowing reasonable access to get a feeler gauge in there.

Gotta say, after doing mostly Moto Guzzi's with the jugs hanging out in the breeze, and having never worked with shims, this job is a real PITA!
2)

I completed the job without removing the radiator, however unlike John above, I found that simply freeing the rad from the rad mounts was nothing like enough for decent access, so I also removed the fan. This may be to do with the fact that my 2015 bike has the very bulky shrouded fan. With the fan out of the way access to the exhaust valve access was easier than the inlet valves.

Put simply (on a 2015 bike anyway) it isn't the rad that's in the way, it's the fan.

A zillion thanks to Luc for his great tutorial!!

Another recommendation after doing the job that helps with reassembly. It seems, for me at least, that it's nearly impossible to remove/replace cams without the cam chain jumping teeth on the lower sprocket. I degreased two spots on the chain with lacquer thinner and marked the exact chain pivot at the "T" marks on each sprocket so I could get them re-oriented with the correct number of links between. If counting each link as two pivot points and counting the first "T" as #1 , the second "T" engages the chain at #1 3 pivot. It's not that easy to see if you're out of time by a half link (one pivot), so this might help someone tackling the job.
3)

Marking the sprockets and chain is GOOD advice. You want to be sure the sprockets and chain go back exactly as they were, so marking them relative to each other only takes a few seconds but provides a whole heap of extra peace of mind.

4)

This bike is certainly not the easiest to adjust the valves on, but armed with the right mindset (patience !) and equipment it's fine. Like the guy in the magazine artilcle above, I did this job with the bike sat on a work bench - something i can't recommend enough.
 

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Know what, 640, you caught me! I forgot that I had previously done the fan swap, and didn't think about the greater interference with the OEM fan shroud/knee warmer (/noise maker?) ;-)

Was it pretty nigh impossible with the OEM fan shroud, or just more fiddly?
 

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Was it pretty nigh impossible with the OEM fan shroud, or just more fiddly?
Don't think there is any way I could have done it with that fan in place without putting a stupid amount of strain on the rad hoses (and it still being very awkward).

Of course I tried - all the while thinking "that guy in the states managed it just by slackening the rad mount screws....." . Then it dawned on me that you'd probably fitted a Spal :laugh:

Difference with the thing removed was like night and day.
 

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Good things come to those who wait. And enough of waiting..Keep it coming. Glued.

Cheers!
V
 
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Don't think there is any way I could have done it with that fan in place without putting a stupid amount of strain on the rad hoses (and it still being very awkward).

Of course I tried - all the while thinking "that guy in the states managed it just by slackening the rad mount screws....." . Then it dawned on me that you'd probably fitted a Spal :laugh:

Difference with the thing removed was like night and day.

HAHAHAHA! I think I heard you say, "Friggin' Yanks!!" :x :eek: >:D
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Having just completed the valve adjustment procedure on my 390 Duke, a few observations.

1)

Thanks to @Luc again for his super comprehensive tutorial, having a load of detailed pics to refer to is certainly a useful supplement to the workshop manual. However it is worth pointing out that on my bike at least, the mark for TDC is a 'T' mark (Luc found something different on his). Still that's fairly incidental - essentially when the camshaft sprocket marks are in the correct position relative to the cylinder head, there will be a mark (of some sort) visible through the rotor inspection window and that mark (whatever it may be :) ) is your reference.
It's really nice knowing that the time spent doing this "how-to" is appreciated. Glad to know it can be of some help!

Thanks
 

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Nice write-up and pics, Luc. Thanks for that. I'll be tearing into mine one of these days now -- only have about 500 miles on it so far -- and your post will be helpful. I've done this twice on a V-Strom and it all looks pretty similar, except that the cam chain tensioner on an ABS-equipped 'Strom can be reinserted only with about 3 wobble extensions on a socket wrench to get around corners and the steady hands of a brain surgeon. Honestly that was the hardest part of the entire job. The Duke's tensioner is, contrary to every other component placement on this bike, amazingly accessible (obviously an oversight at the factory).:D

I wish there was a "shim exchange" thread somewhere in this forum. The idea of buying a complete shim kit just for a few shims kind of bothers my midwestern farm-bred sense of frugality.

BTW Luc, you said that your adjusted valves were clacking a little. Just remember that old axiom, "A slappy valve is a happy valve."
 
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