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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Just picked up my 390
It’s a 2014 8.5k miles
I’m having a few issue and wondered if any one could help
I removed the aka exhaust and put the stock back on
Left the bike idling for about 20 minutes and got a warning on the screen “high coolant temperature”
So turned the bike of, all the levels are ok
Thought I’d have a look this morning
Started her up and it got one bar from high in about 5 minutes then I noticed the MIL was flashing one long then 7 short flashes
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you
James
 

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Does the radiator fan switch on after a while? It should. Otherwise the coolant temperature will be too high.
How fast that happens depends obviously a lot on the outside temperature and if the bike is moving or standing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi ede thanks for the reply
The mil light does the one long and 7 short flashes with just the ignition on,
And the bike came up with the coolant message whilst it was just idle and haven’t driven it, as soon as I saw the coolant warning I turned it of
I don’t no if this is all because I swapped the the stock back on from the aka
I’ve not rode it yet probably yet funnily enough maybe 5-10 minutes as I wanted to put the stock exhaust back on and noticed these issues 🤨
 

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Have you had the manifold off as well?
The flashes indicate an O2 error.


As for the temperature, what Ede said. Does the fen come on at all?
If not I'd first check if the fan actually works, disconnect the contactor and put 12V from a battery to the fan to check is it spins.
If it does I can suggest (from my very recent experience) disconnecting the temp sensor plug, back of the engine, a blue one, spray the sensor side and the connector side with some WD-40, let it evaporate and re-connect.
In my case, this solved a 6 year long big question mark.
How did you check if there is enough oil in the sump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi masean
Thanks you for the reply
I don’t no if the fan came on as when I saw the coolant warning I turned the bike of,
I did take the manifold of to re fit the stock exhaust
All I did to check the oil was standing the bike upright and useing the site glass?
I haven’t tried to run the bike up yet as I was a little worried about the MIL flashing at me
So the help is much appreciated 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi ede,
I tested the fan by disconnecting it and powered it up, the fan works
Think it’s ok to try to run it up again with the MIL light flashing? And make sure the fan kicks in?
When I got the coolant message before the bike was just idleing in the my garage for around 20 minutes
Thanks James
 

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20 min is a long time for any bike to sit at idle, even with the fan running most will start to have temp issues. (I’ve seen a few guys with triumph twins idle for 10-15min literally melt the oil pump gear and weld the engine together, they are air cooled but still)

Just because you can power up the fan with direct power that does not mean the ecm is actually turning it on when it needs to so a live test would be advisable. I would also pop the radiator cap when cold, make sure it’s topped off and the opening is on the high side and let it run for a few minutes to ensure you don’t have any trapped air anywhere just be careful not to let it boil out, re install the cap and take it for a spin close to home, you should be good.

If not then I would get your radiator cap tested it may not be holding pressure or you could have a leak elsewhere. Have you tried pulling the battery cables for a while to see if it will get rid of the MIL light and maybe the parameter adaptions set by the ecm for the other exhaust? Works on most FI bikes but haven’t had a chance to try it yet on my 390.
 

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As the fan works, I would do the disconnect of the sensor and spray the contacts.
On my bike (for 5 or so years) I learned to live with the high-temperature warning and the block indicator on the dash all the way up.
By accident, I found that all is working okay and that an oxidated contact (probably) caused this issue.
As for the MIL code, I would re-check the Lambda sonde connections and wires as this most likely is your issue here.

I would start the bike and have it idle.
The fan (on my bike) comes on at around 92 - 94 Celcius so if you can find an infrared temperature gauge (there are also some available on the Google Play Store for your mobile and cuts out at around 84 - 85 C.

I honestly do not see any problem in running your bike idle for 20+ minutes IF all fluids areas should be.

On the oil level: because your bike is from 2014 (8 years old) with only 18,500 km (1,700/year) and you probably don't know the service history (or being told a story) the very first thing I would do is drain the oil, clean the strainers, replace the oil filter and put 1.7 litres of fresh oil into the sump.

Good luck on the work and hope you'll be a happy Duke rider soon.



Hi ede,
I tested the fan by disconnecting it and powered it up, the fan works
Think it’s ok to try to run it up again with the MIL light flashing? And make sure the fan kicks in?
When I got the coolant message before the bike was just idleing in the my garage for around 20 minutes
Thanks James
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi guys thank you for the replies
I have unplugged the sensor like you said and gave it a spray with wd40
I have also ordered a service kit which should be here tomorrow 🙂
I also disconnected the lamda sensor and re attached it
I disconnected the battery before I went home so we’ll see what happens in the morning
Quick question regarding the coolant
With he bike on the side stand and taking the rad cap of, water starts coming out immediately even when the bike is stone cold, is this normal?
I did follow the instructions in the booklet to bleed it by opening the bleed screw and lean to the right, so not sure if that’s normal or not?
thanks again guys
 

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You should have no circulation when cold if the thermostat is working properly. It may not be your whole problem but it sounds to me like you’re t-stat could have failed in open or possibly a semi open/closed state allowing you to see the circulation all the time but not allowing maximum flow when it really needs the cooling, definitely worth looking into.

If you do end up replacing the t-stat I would go ahead and flush it again just incase it has debris from the failure, get a new radiator cap and look into doing the lower temp t-stat switch:


I would definitely not just ignore it and live with it, sounds like minimal work and investment to get it right and keep you safe from a melted engine and a really bad day.

On a side note and not to distract from the problem at hand, what are your plans for the aka exhaust? Not sure what shipping would cost to my location but I would be interested in taking it off your hands if it’s in good condition, I have some water crossings in my future and I’m looking for a can to make a higher mount exhaust for my 390 adv.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Elbra
Thanks for the reply
Yeh obviously I checked the levels and wasn’t sure about the water coming out immediately from the rad cab when cold
Can I remove thermostat and place into boiler water to test to see if it opens and closes?
i re attached the battery this morning and still have the MIL light on with just the ignition on, one long flash followed by 7 short ones 😔
Not run it up yet or taken it for a ride as I can’t insure it till next week to ride it anyway
As for the aka I have no plans for it to be honest
Thanks
 

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Quick question regarding the coolant
With he bike on the side stand and taking the rad cap of, water starts coming out immediately even when the bike is stone cold, is this normal?
I did follow the instructions in the booklet to bleed it by opening the bleed screw and lean to the right, so not sure if that’s normal or not?
thanks again guys
As far as know the nobody should open the cap on the radiator. The water level should be checked in the reservoir. I find it difficult to see the water level on the reservoir and I tried to add water because I didn't see it was already full.
 

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I'm probably reading this wrongly, Elbra..
With a cold engine, there definitely is circulation (with the thermostat working properly) in the coolant system it only bypasses the radiator until the coolant is at such temperature to gradually open the thermostat and allow for the coolant to run through the radiator.

If there is coolant running out of the radiator when taking off the cap you will have enough coolant to run the bike.

If you have checked that the wires (3x) from the O2 sensor (green connectors) are good and connected you might want to try and clean the O2 sensor by taking it out of the manifold and soaking it in hot water for a while.

You obviously could play around on the thermostat (which I believe will be a waste of time) and test if it opened BUT you can do this as well by starting the bike and check the engine's temperature with an infrared gauge.
You can also put your finger on the thermostat or hoses just after you have started the engine.
The hose running to the radiator shall remain cool up until the thermostat opens, while the other hose (running into the thermostat on the opposite side of the hose running to the radiator will become warm/hot pretty soon.

When you have the oil service kit, drain the oil (you can unplug the oil-drain plug now) replace the oil filter by the new one, clean the strainers (some kits come with new strainers) and measure out 1.7 litres of fresh oil to go in.

In my experiences with the first-Gen Dukes, I have so far not come across a thermostat failure nor a burned engine with sufficient oil.

DO NOT order the suggested forged thermostat switch as you can see on the KTM Twins page that:
  • Fits ALL KTM Adventure, Enduro, & Sport except the following models:
    • 390 Duke/RC 390 (all years)
 

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James023,

Our cooling fans are switched on- and off by the ECU.

Hi Elbra
Thanks for the reply
Yeh obviously I checked the levels and wasn’t sure about the water coming out immediately from the rad cab when cold
Can I remove thermostat and place into boiler water to test to see if it opens and closes?
i re attached the battery this morning and still have the MIL light on with just the ignition on, one long flash followed by 7 short ones 😔
Not run it up yet or taken it for a ride as I can’t insure it till next week to ride it anyway
As for the aka I have no plans for it to be honest
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi ktmasean
Thanks again for replying
I’ve got all the plastics of waiting for my service kit to turn up tomorrow
So I may as well take the lambda sensor out and give it a clean see if that will help like you suggested
Once that’s done and all serviced
I’ll run it up again and see if I get the coolant warning again, would it come up with that warning if it was just idleing? Im not sure if the fan was on when that came on as soon as I saw it I turned the bike off
like I said earlier I’ve not ridden it really yet,
And that sucks that the ecu controls the fan, any common issues with the ecu having issues? 😔
 

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KTMasean, correct there is always circulation in the engine just not visible movement or pressure pushing anything out of the radiator when cold unless there’s a failure, assuming you don’t have the expansion tank full. Also correct about the billet thermostat, most of my hands on Ktm/ husky experience is based on the bigger bikes so my bad there.

Ede, why are you hesitant to touch a object thats made to be removed as long as the bike is not already hot and built pressure in the system and again the expansion tank empty??
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Slight update if anyone has any ideas,
Decided to run it up again
The MIL light was on when just ignition (1 long 7 short flashes)
Although went out after 1 minute and didn’t come back on
Left idleing
Just after 10 minutes it was up to H mark on the temp
Coolant warning came on
The fan came on around the same time
I turned the bike straight of
I also dropped a little oil seems fine no milky colour
This was all without me driving or revving it just idle
Any ideas?
also the MIL light is back on with just the ignition on again 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Another little update
So the fan seems to kick in only once the coolant message comes up on the screen
If I blow air at the rad useing the air compressor at work the temperature will go back down and the fan will turn of
How ever within another minute the coolant warning comes on then the fan will cut in again
I don’t no if I was actually riding it, it would still overheat?
Almost seems like that fan is coming on to late perhaps 🤷‍♂️
 

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Ede, why are you hesitant to touch a object thats made to be removed as long as the bike is not already hot and built pressure in the system and again the expansion tank empty??
I a pretty sure I read in the manual that users should refill the water in the reservoir and "normally" they should not open the radiator cab. Obviously the cab is there for a reason and for maintenance task is can be opened.
 
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