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Discussion Starter #1
I've noticed while riding at 55 mph in 5th or 6th gear I twist the throttle about 30 to 40 percent I get a stutter or a cut out from the bike. I havent done extensive testing but that is what I've been experiencing. I have the Powertronics V3 no quickshift and I have a Remus S-Flow exhaust (no cat). I use the tune from Powertronics (ktm duke 390 w/ exhuast). Do I need to adjust the fueling or ignition? I've double checked the tune and made sure the throttle was calibrated. I do not have a check engine light or any error lights. If anyone can advise that would be very helpful.

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I also have that issue.
Except I would describe mine as a “bog” at 5800 rpm In any gear. But ONLY at 70-100% throttle

Everything else is amazing

Ive run 15 different maps

Made my own 12 times ...

Best I have found is their map “stock “
(I have quickshifter - buy it !!!)

When I use the provided Stock map chip (bypasses the PowerTronic and runs stick map). It runs perfect —- but way less power

So I have been learning to roll on the throtttle around the 5800 rpm trouble spot and I’m all good - no bog

It’s onky when I crack it for a wheelie ...
And only at 5800 ish rpm. So only once in a while ....
I’ve tried advanceing the timing and adding more fuel .... many different ways ...


Considering my local dyno shop to try to get the “perfect” map

Otherwise I’m so happy with my PowerTronic

Running hi flow DNA filter and I cut my stock exhaust . (Which was a great idea !! Everyone should do this )
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I also have that issue.
Except I would describe mine as a “bog” at 5800 rpm In any gear. But ONLY at 70-100% throttle

Everything else is amazing

Ive run 15 different maps

Made my own 12 times ...

Best I have found is their map “stock “
(I have quickshifter - buy it !!!)

When I use the provided Stock map chip (bypasses the PowerTronic and runs stick map). It runs perfect —- but way less power

So I have been learning to roll on the throtttle around the 5800 rpm trouble spot and I’m all good - no bog

It’s onky when I crack it for a wheelie ...
And only at 5800 ish rpm. So only once in a while ....
I’ve tried advanceing the timing and adding more fuel .... many different ways ...


Considering my local dyno shop to try to get the “perfect” map

Otherwise I’m so happy with my PowerTronic

Running hi flow DNA filter and I cut my stock exhaust . (Which was a great idea !! Everyone should do this )

I also have considered the Dyno route... but I'm glad to hear it isn't just me
 

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I have also noticed the bog/stutter at 5800.
I have a Leo Vince bypass pipe with the stock muffler. I'm using the exhaust map. If I remember correctly, there is a big fueling jump at 6500. This may be the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Going to check that and give it a try. Will report back after.

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Discussion Starter #7
I only made that single change. Did you make any changes to the ignition noise filter?


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I cut my stock exhaust

Hi Greg,

Please explain what you mean by "I cut my stock exhaust"?

Thank you.

I also have that issue.
Except I would describe mine as a “bog” at 5800 rpm In any gear. But ONLY at 70-100% throttle

Everything else is amazing

Ive run 15 different maps

Made my own 12 times ...

Best I have found is their map “stock “
(I have quickshifter - buy it !!!)

When I use the provided Stock map chip (bypasses the PowerTronic and runs stick map). It runs perfect —- but way less power

So I have been learning to roll on the throtttle around the 5800 rpm trouble spot and I’m all good - no bog

It’s onky when I crack it for a wheelie ...
And only at 5800 ish rpm. So only once in a while ....
I’ve tried advanceing the timing and adding more fuel .... many different ways ...


Considering my local dyno shop to try to get the “perfect” map

Otherwise I’m so happy with my PowerTronic

Running hi flow DNA filter and I cut my stock exhaust . (Which was a great idea !! Everyone should do this )
 

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I cut the baffle out of my stock muffler

I used a 1.5” (37mm) bi-metal hole saw and simply drilled the end. The baffle comes out and air flow is improved . It sounds way better too!

Running a hi flow air filter and PowerTronic tuner as well ...

I figured if modifying my stock exhaust didn’t work , I could always add a slip on or full exhaust system .

It worked great
 

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Cut the exhaust.

Thanks, Greg,

Any pics on the progress of this?

I cut the baffle out of my stock muffler

I used a 1.5” (37mm) bi-metal hole saw and simply drilled the end. The baffle comes out and air flow is improved . It sounds way better too!

Running a hi flow air filter and PowerTronic tuner as well ...

I figured if modifying my stock exhaust didn’t work , I could always add a slip on or full exhaust system .

It worked great
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Was able to test ride the bike after the changes....
@theduker98. You are a genius hahaha my stutter at 5800 rpm or so is gone. Thank you so much it has been driving me crazy

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I was just going to post the same thing. No more bog/stutter. Thanks man.
 

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injection noise filter

Wow, theduker98,

What a wonderfully simple fix you have found there.
Thanks for sharing.

As a technically trained/educated person my question to this is:
What does the injection noise filter do?
How did you get onto this "fix"?
Has PowerTRONIC anything to say to this?

had the same problem, just go into the config tab on you powertronic r-tune and set (injection noise filter) to 0.00
 

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@KTMasean my exhaust looks like stock (2017) except with a 1.5” (37mm) hole in the end

Look on YouTube .... there are videos of a few different people doing the same thing !


I can’t wait to get my computer out and fix my stutter too !! Stoked to try it
It’s been bugging me too bc everything else is perfect and smoother and more power

Also , my bike has never stalled (except when I blip the throttle too fast at idle which is normal) until I changed my levers last week. It stalled after downshifting coming to a stop 3 times now on the same day. Is it possible that the change of levers affected that? I do notice that there are 2 wires attached to the clutch lever which I think bypass the neutral safety switch . My bike also now starts in gear and moves forward if I start it in gear .....
Help?
 

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Hi Greg,

Thanks for your reply.

I think on the levers the switch on your new clutch does not work.
If you are able to start your bike in gear (without the clutch lever pulled) the switch definitely does not work.
If at starting the bike in gear with the clutch lever pulled the bike is creeping forward, the clutch cable has not been adjusted correctly in my opinion.
Hope you will be able to correct the issue.


@KTMasean my exhaust looks like stock (2017) except with a 1.5” (37mm) hole in the end

Look on YouTube .... there are videos of a few different people doing the same thing !


I can’t wait to get my computer out and fix my stutter too !! Stoked to try it
It’s been bugging me too bc everything else is perfect and smoother and more power

Also , my bike has never stalled (except when I blip the throttle too fast at idle which is normal) until I changed my levers last week. It stalled after downshifting coming to a stop 3 times now on the same day. Is it possible that the change of levers affected that? I do notice that there are 2 wires attached to the clutch lever which I think bypass the neutral safety switch . My bike also now starts in gear and moves forward if I start it in gear .....
Help?
 

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Thanks KTMasean....
I think the adjustment is good
I feel the new clutch lever is not properly connected to the neutral safety switch wiring ..... I will look into this
If I can’t resolve it , I will switch back to factory levers .... which were ok to begin with ....
 

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Ok this is awesome
@theduker98 - you rock
I changed my injection noise filter to 0.00
Holy crap
It’s perfect now

I’m running exhaust map and it’s freaky how spot on this is!!! So happy now

This bike is alive and runs perfectly !!
No bog
No stutter
Way more power
Way smoother

Thanks !!!
 

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Wow, theduker98,

What a wonderfully simple fix you have found there.
Thanks for sharing.

As a technically trained/educated person my question to this is:
What does the injection noise filter do?
How did you get onto this "fix"?
Has PowerTRONIC anything to say to this?
On the newer KTM factory calibration, under dynamic transient conditions, the injectors fire multiple times per combustion cycle and very close to each other, sometimes less than 0.2ms or so between the end of one pulse to start of next pulse. This would mean the PowerTRONIC would consider all signals smaller than the time set in the noise filter tab as invalid. Hence, to disable this function set the noise filter value to 0.
 

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injector noise filter

Thanks, PT,

For clearing this up for us/me.
Does the same go for the ignition noise filter and is the multiple firing of the injectors not the case on older models?
What is the idea behind the filters in injection and ignition?

I much appreciate your willingness to educate me on the working of your ECU's.


On the newer KTM factory calibration, under dynamic transient conditions, the injectors fire multiple times per combustion cycle and very close to each other, sometimes less than 0.2ms or so between the end of one pulse to start of next pulse. This would mean the PowerTRONIC would consider all signals smaller than the time set in the noise filter tab as invalid. Hence, to disable this function set the noise filter value to 0.
 
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