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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks;

I'm waiting for that pesky BC snow to melt. I thought I'd install a handlebar riser to bide my time....

I ordered a nifty-looking (see photo below) set of inserts which according to the vendor would fit a 2019 Duke 390. I presumed they would also fit a 2022 edition. They don't: they are a smidgeon too wide. Oh well: after trying to get them to fit, I think a spacer below my bar clamps is better. As you likely know, a spacer below the bar clamps will lift my instrument panel, which I prefer.

Are there any 2 cm under-bar-clamps spacer kits w/longer bolts out there?

And, yes, I'm waiting for a call back from my local shop as well, as they are presently stumped as to how to achieve this....

Thank you in advance -- Matt
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Duke of Seven;
That's a great question, and I have to laugh: I am 6'2" tall, nothing outlandish. But, I have only 32 inch legs! My back is really, really long. I can tuck my stubby legs into the tank flare, no problem. And, yeah, no matter what I look a bit tallish on any bike.
Just don't ask about how many cars I have to stoop to sit in....
Cheers - Matt
 

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I had some of those types ( Tusk 1-1/8" bars at 15mm rise) and they didn't work. I bought a couple 3/4" steel spacers and inserts at the local hardware store. The OEM bolts are fine thread, so I had to order longer ones on ebay from China, as even Fastenal couldn't get them. I was lazy and just wrapped them with electrical tape. For a $16 project, it turned out good. Doing it this way also raises up the display. Not much cable slack for anything longer. Nice improvement. For reference, I am 6'3" with a 36" inseam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow, that's exactly the information I needed, Troop. Is 90mm the correct length for inserting 3/4 inch of spacer? And, I'm not sure I understand the need for electrical tape?
Thanks...
 

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Looking back, I went with
Wow, that's exactly the information I needed, Troop. Is 90mm the correct length for inserting 3/4 inch of spacer? And, I'm not sure I understand the need for electrical tape? Thanks...
Looking again, I went with .5" spacer. 90mm was the correct length, as oem is 70. Black tape was too make them black versus painting 😀
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I noticed that the original bolt has 8.8 stamped on the top. It's an M10 with a thread pitch of 1.25. And so I did some research....
The 8.8 grade means it is hardened steel with a tensile strength of 800 N/mm2. The stainless A2 grade one in the link above is rated at 700 N/mm2, or 12.5% lower.
I spent last evening searching the web-world for a 10M 1.25 thread pitch 8.8 grade (or better) 90mm long allen/hex key socket screw. I found nothing. That bolt you found, Troopa, is the best match. The question then becomes: is a slightly less "strong" bolt reasonably safe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cool. Thanks for sharing.
I was thinking of doing the inner sleeve thing too. But I just ordered two 1/2" and two 1/4" aluminum spacers as shown in the photo. The 1/4" thick version is solid, not hourglass. Total lift will be 3/4" or 19mm Hopefully this will work! Not cheap to get this stuff in Canada....
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, I'm not quite sure how I'm going to figure that one out. Might be able to thread the 12.9 steel screw right through the softer aluminum? And I'm wondering if a 3/8 spacer is exactly 3/8 inner diameter? Or if it's maybe 1/64 larger so it can actually slide over a 3/8 inch shaft part?
I'll post in here with my findings. I'm hoping other forum readers might find this information helpful.... maybe.
 

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Yeah, I'm not quite sure how I'm going to figure that one out. Might be able to thread the 12.9 steel screw right through the softer aluminum? And I'm wondering if a 3/8 spacer is exactly 3/8 inner diameter? Or if it's maybe 1/64 larger so it can actually slide over a 3/8 inch shaft part?
I'll post in here with my findings. I'm hoping other forum readers might find this information helpful.... maybe.
Did you get this sorted out? I dunno why I didn't think to look for a M10-1.50 bolt/lock nut?? I saw the OEM was 1.25 and locked into that. I ordered (2) M10-1.50 x 90mm 12.9 grade bolts for $1.36 EACH plus (2) stainless M10 - 1.50 lock nuts for .48/each from Fastenal (local). They are installed now. Only concern with black oxide is rust factor, but only about 6mm of threads are exposed at the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Troop;
Yeah, the reason I went with 1.25 thread pitch is it apparently grips a little better than 1.5???
My parts arrived: the 1/4" spacer with the 3/8 inner diameter fits perfectly around the 10mm bolt. But, the 1/2" spacer with the "same" 3/8 inner diameter will need to be made the tiniest bit larger to get it to fit nicely. Will get it done soon because the BC weather is good enough for riding!
 

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Hi Troop;
Yeah, the reason I went with 1.25 thread pitch is it apparently grips a little better than 1.5???
My parts arrived: the 1/4" spacer with the 3/8 inner diameter fits perfectly around the 10mm bolt. But, the 1/2" spacer with the "same" 3/8 inner diameter will need to be made the tiniest bit larger to get it to fit nicely. Will get it done soon because the BC weather is good enough for riding!
With the M10-1.50 bolt being 12.9 tensile versus the OEM M10-1.25 being 8.8 tensile, I think I'll be OK. I also added split ring lock washers with the locknuts :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah, I don't think either of us are going to have the bars come off mid-ride!
The biggest advantage I noticed from my first ride is that my mirrors are more effective and easier to glance at.
Happy riding, Troop!
 
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