KTM Duke 390 Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys having a hard time removing the factory exhaust!
Anyone removed theirs? All bolts are out and it's very loose it just won't drop out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
817 Posts
Take your belly pan off, once you take that away it will slide down and forwards. When you mount the header pipe into your new link pipe be careful not to pinch the gasket rings, the room can be a bit restricted. Its also easier if you loosen or remove the header, just depends how much room you need. Also the long bolt in the bottom front has a big shim thats super tight, you may need to wiggle and work it out from the frame. Yep its a p***k of a job!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,087 Posts
Take your belly pan off, once you take that away it will slide down and forwards. When you mount the header pipe into your new link pipe be careful not to pinch the gasket rings, the room can be a bit restricted. Its also easier if you loosen or remove the header, just depends how much room you need. Also the long bolt in the bottom front has a big shim thats super tight, you may need to wiggle and work it out from the frame. Yep its a p***k of a job!
The definition of P-I-T-A !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Hi guys. I was actually going to make a video on this. The problem is all to do with the two lower mounts that has the steel rod that sits in the middle of them that the long bolt runs through. I think what happens is when they tighten it up at the factory it squeezes these mounts together on either side which makes it near impossible to get out.

After nearly pulling my hair out I worked out what to do. I used a t-bar and put it down through the frame next to the rear master cylinder reservoir and put the end of it on top of the steel rod with the end pushed up against the left rubber mount, then get a rubber mallet and knock it out. And yes before you do this make sure you have removed the rear belly pan mount first. And bingo out it comes. You will lose bit of paint on the lower mounts but you don't see them. This also confirms they are squeezed tight.

Also make sure you use a rag or scuff proof to protect your frame where the t-bar or what ever you are using doesn't damage the frame as it will touch it when you knocking it out.

If any one wants pics on this let me know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Removal of Std. exhaust Info,
You really have to compress the rear suspension approx 3", once compressed the silencer will drop out easily. Ratchet straps over the seat connected to the swing arm do the job. Put some cloth under the straps on the seat and on the ground where the exhaust will land to stop damage. There is no clearance otherwise and you will damage paint etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
In anticipation of my Werkes exhaust, Bazzaz, air box and quick throttle (Thanks HR and MNNTHX), I figured I'd tackle this "pig of a job"
At first, it did appear to be just that.
Undo all the mounting bolts, nothing moves. Eventually it walked back a tiny bit, but not enough to clear the header.
Header bolt obscured by radiator. So, drop the radiator. Not all the way, but enough to get in there with an extension.
Header removed, the pig came back and then hit the lower engine casing and the swing arm.
It seemed stuck on something. Upon closer inspection, the main through bolt on the bottom, sits in a sleeve, that was a very tight fit between the mounts.
Using 2 12" extensions, I drove that sleeve down enough it cleared one side of the mounts.
Pig was now stuck on the swing arm.
Time for a drink....
Looking at it carefully, I figured that if I compressed the suspension, I might gain enough to force it out.
I ran a ratchet strap over the tail, and hooked into under the swing arm. I cranked it down as hard as it would compress, but not enough. I recon that the strap was too far forward to get enough leverage.
So, I took it off the pit stand, and on side stand, used my spools to hook the ratchet into.
HOLD ON TO THE BIKE........
As I was cranking it down, the bike tried to tip over to the right. Caught it.
Running the strap up over the grab handles, I was able to get it tight enough, until....DONK, it just fell out on it's own.
This sucker weighs 13lbs. Good riddance. I'll post the install of the Werkes system next weekend.

Hope this helps guys











 
  • Like
Reactions: Diploman

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
in the variety of bikes i have owned, i would have never imagined i'd need to remove the mounting bolts for the radiator and loosen the gas tank (or remove the cover) to get the stock exhaust out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
in the variety of bikes i have owned, i would have never imagined i'd need to remove the mounting bolts for the radiator and loosen the gas tank (or remove the cover) to get the stock exhaust out.
I've had my stock exhaust in and out 4 times and I've been able to easily undo and tighten the header nuts with an extension! Also, once you have the muffler free of the pipe you can put your weight on the tail and the muffler will drop out. It also helps if you have a 2nd person to sit on the rear as you wiggle the muffler out the bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
in the variety of bikes i have owned, i would have never imagined i'd need to remove the mounting bolts for the radiator and loosen the gas tank (or remove the cover) to get the stock exhaust out.
Tank cover off for airbox mod, not muffler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
I've had my stock exhaust in and out 4 times and I've been able to easily undo and tighten the header nuts with an extension! Also, once you have the muffler free of the pipe you can put your weight on the tail and the muffler will drop out. It also helps if you have a 2nd person to sit on the rear as you wiggle the muffler out the bottom.
Does your bike have the O2 sensor right at the header outlet? That is what stopped me. There wasn't enough gap to get my extension and socket past it.
4 bolts on the rad was the easier option.
And I was solo, and only weight 190, so I could not get enough movement in the spring. Hence the strap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Take your belly pan off, once you take that away it will slide down and forwards. When you mount the header pipe into your new link pipe be careful not to pinch the gasket rings, the room can be a bit restricted. Its also easier if you loosen or remove the header, just depends how much room you need. Also the long bolt in the bottom front has a big shim thats super tight, you may need to wiggle and work it out from the frame. Yep its a p***k of a job!
UT is one piece
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top