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Hi does anyone make a sidestand sensor bypass for a 2020 duke 390?
Sidestand sensor bypass
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Thank you so much 😊🙏
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My 390 has been having issues with it since i bought it from the dealership. It reads that the sidestand is down when I put it up. If i tap downwards slightly on it the warning light goes away and works. They said to bring it in for repair but its a 5 hr drive each way
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Motopsycho,
There are some suggestions on the forum to better this issue.
One thing that does not help, and happens here in Asia a lot, is sitting on the bike with it being on the side stand.
Be careful though on tightening the magnetic bolt after placing a ring under it as these brass/copper bolts break easily.
There are some suggestions on the forum to better this issue.
One thing that does not help, and happens here in Asia a lot, is sitting on the bike with it being on the side stand.
Be careful though on tightening the magnetic bolt after placing a ring under it as these brass/copper bolts break easily.
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Subscribed to this thread in order to follow...
As I was seriously considering bypassing mine too, after the here-and-there complaints of this area malfunctioning.
Well -- it turns out the harness runs [all the way to the sensor] and plugs only into it. IOW, there is no jumper or intermediate harness.
But when I went to unthread the retainer bolts that hold the sensor into the shield/cage, all they did was spin their threaded metal bushings in the plastic sensor body. So, in my case, the only way to remove my sensor and unplug it...
Is by removing the entire kickstand assembly, then replacing the bolts, sensor and cage -- because I'll hafta cut them off.
Woot!
As I was seriously considering bypassing mine too, after the here-and-there complaints of this area malfunctioning.
Well -- it turns out the harness runs [all the way to the sensor] and plugs only into it. IOW, there is no jumper or intermediate harness.
But when I went to unthread the retainer bolts that hold the sensor into the shield/cage, all they did was spin their threaded metal bushings in the plastic sensor body. So, in my case, the only way to remove my sensor and unplug it...
Is by removing the entire kickstand assembly, then replacing the bolts, sensor and cage -- because I'll hafta cut them off.
Woot!
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What year is your duke? Also will completely removing the sensor disable the bike? 🤔
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2019.
And the sensor feedback circuit is pin 40 (pk wire) at the ECU, under the tank, but I haven't taken the time yet to pinpoint test that input circuit, to evaluate the voltage levels and state that signifies up/down on the kickstand.
The thing is, the sensor is a hall-effect sensor that gets fed a 5v ref, on the or/br wire, but since hall effects require an internal op amp to step up their output, it's not like you can just 'jumper' the 5V in or outta the signal wire without also considering the circuit drain.
IOW, you really need to take a look at the logic voltage levels, as on/off inputs to the ECU, before you just start assuming anything.
But now I just feel like I'm bantering again. I really haven't finished properly evaluating this sensor system yet.
I also noticed that the ECU doesn't appear to be numbered(?). But, on the diagram, it is easy to notice a few key points:
The ECU is a 44 pin device, with 2 rows of 22 pins. Pins 1 and 23 are both bl-ye wires; 22 is bu-bl, and 44 is pk-bu.
IOW, it should be easy to figure out, visually, exactly where pin 40 (or any other wire) exists, once the ECU is exposed for examination.
Did I answer your question? In the first sentence.
And the sensor feedback circuit is pin 40 (pk wire) at the ECU, under the tank, but I haven't taken the time yet to pinpoint test that input circuit, to evaluate the voltage levels and state that signifies up/down on the kickstand.
The thing is, the sensor is a hall-effect sensor that gets fed a 5v ref, on the or/br wire, but since hall effects require an internal op amp to step up their output, it's not like you can just 'jumper' the 5V in or outta the signal wire without also considering the circuit drain.
IOW, you really need to take a look at the logic voltage levels, as on/off inputs to the ECU, before you just start assuming anything.
But now I just feel like I'm bantering again. I really haven't finished properly evaluating this sensor system yet.
I also noticed that the ECU doesn't appear to be numbered(?). But, on the diagram, it is easy to notice a few key points:
The ECU is a 44 pin device, with 2 rows of 22 pins. Pins 1 and 23 are both bl-ye wires; 22 is bu-bl, and 44 is pk-bu.
IOW, it should be easy to figure out, visually, exactly where pin 40 (or any other wire) exists, once the ECU is exposed for examination.
Did I answer your question? In the first sentence.
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🤯🤯🤯 looking for my dunce cap
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Uhh... yeh... don't mind me, I don't know why I get like that. [neither does anybody else]
Maybe I just shoulda said, "I dunno".
Maybe I just shoulda said, "I dunno".
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No no, I really appreciate you taking time to break it down for me. The electrical portion can be a bit confusing for me but im trying to learn
Same **** happened to me except i was doing 80mph and my bike decided to come to a hardcore sudden stop. My trick was to put the kickstand down as normal and then lean the bike back enough to where i could use my hand to swing that bitch asnhard as possible into the up position kinda knocking some sense into the sensor.. heh. Anyway needless to say it worked for about 7 or 8 weeks before it completely took a ****. Ive tried the resistor hack, ive tried splicing wires to no avail. Im just going to have to order a few because the dealer says its a known recalled part for a lot of years.
luckly i just found this abiut 5 minutes ago..... ima go do it and let you guys know if it works
Quick fix to get you home when that pos sidestand switch dies out on your Adventure, should be the same for the SMT:
1.Down near the gear lever and you will see two groups of wires going towards the side stand switch.
2.Grab the smaller set of wires that are in a black waterproof wrap and pull them out of the wire guide near the gear leaver.
3. At about an inch past the wire guide use a knife to cut open the black cover.(carefully)
4.There is a bright green wire inside . ( Theres only two wires, if there are 3 you selected the wrong group of wires )
5. Cut the bright green wire and then strip it of insulation for about 2 cm .
6.Join the green wire to the steel wire guide near the gear lever or any earth. ( This is shorting out the neutral switch so now the neutral light will stay on even when the bike is in gear)
This will fool the bike into thinking its always in neutral and effectively disabling the sidestand switch.
This will get you home if need be.
luckly i just found this abiut 5 minutes ago..... ima go do it and let you guys know if it works
Quick fix to get you home when that pos sidestand switch dies out on your Adventure, should be the same for the SMT:
1.Down near the gear lever and you will see two groups of wires going towards the side stand switch.
2.Grab the smaller set of wires that are in a black waterproof wrap and pull them out of the wire guide near the gear leaver.
3. At about an inch past the wire guide use a knife to cut open the black cover.(carefully)
4.There is a bright green wire inside . ( Theres only two wires, if there are 3 you selected the wrong group of wires )
5. Cut the bright green wire and then strip it of insulation for about 2 cm .
6.Join the green wire to the steel wire guide near the gear lever or any earth. ( This is shorting out the neutral switch so now the neutral light will stay on even when the bike is in gear)
This will fool the bike into thinking its always in neutral and effectively disabling the sidestand switch.
This will get you home if need be.
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