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Discussion Starter #1
does anybody know what's involved in removing the valve cover on a 2016 model, I have only had my bike a short while and have noticed the valve cover gasket is leaking, the manual only shows it being removed with the engine out and all fluids drained, can it be removed in the frame and with fluids still in the bike
 

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Yes, it can, best to take off the tank though.
No problem whatsoever on coolant nor oil.
 

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remove seat, remove rear seat, remove the three screws on each side fairing, remove both tank bolts for the seat, remove rear tank bolts, undo front tank allen bolts, remove the three allen head gas tank hatch bolts, remove plastic tank cover.

Then pull rear tank mounting brackets, disconnect the ECU and get a chair or something. At this point disconnect the fuel level sensor plug under the tank, then lift the tank and rest it on the clutch lever side of the bike and the chair. Do not disconnect any of the fuel lines, unless you have too.... Which I have not had to yet.....

While you are in there I would recommend changing the fuel filter and checking valve clearances. If you intend of doing valve checks I would undo the mounting bolts for your radiator and just tilt it forward, unless you plan on dumping the coolant and running straight engine ice like I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
great, thanks guys that's really appreciated, I'm going to see if it's a warranty issue first but it's great to know it is a relatively easy job :D
 

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Hi @astromars , have you had success replacing the valve cover gasket? Either by a dealer or yourself?

I have a very similar issue in that my valve cover gasket is leaking oil. Please share your experience with this.

52892
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hello, no I never got around to it, what with all the 'lockdowns' we had I just lived with it for a couple of thousand miles, unfortunately I had to get a different bike going into winter because the Duke didn't seem able to run heated grips so I bought an MT03 (660), but we're in lockdown again so it looks like I won't be needing heated grips anyway by the time it is over,
I still have the little DUKE and I'm waiting to see if it will be any good for my son when he moves house, if it is then I might do the gasket going by the instructions given above, it seems quite straight forward, yours looks like it is more urgent than what mine is, are you sure the cover bolts haven't come loose
 

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yours looks like it is more urgent than what mine is, are you sure the cover bolts haven't come loose
Not sure, this is a more recent development, from what I can tell. Nothing was done to the engine in the past almost two years.

However, sometime in Spring 2019, the whole engine was rebuilt to replace the coolant seal on the balancer shaft, I think. Maybe they did less than par job? Then what else is at risk in this engine, you know?
 

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always ultra grey rtv, or else splendiferous anaerobica the entire loop ova mosta beautiful situation.

Only the manufacturers put gaskets on dry; perhaps to test if they will actually make it outta warranty before they hafta pay dealer techs to fixa(?). Whooza knowzuh. not me.

If you drop the gasket in a ziplock bag (oops, branding), then squeeze in a generous amount of high qual non-volatile RTV...
then close the bag with as little air inside as possible... then squish it all around inside the bag, until the gasket is thoroughly coated... what you will have is a gasket that is ready to be even more impervious to the hostile interior environment of the engine, and a really badashian seal everywhere something touches it.
Just don't go overboard (you know) and end up with a bunch squeezing into the motor. IOW, when the gasket is coated tacky, slap it on.

Thanks for hearing me out. I think I was gettin' lonely out here in the sticks.
 

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always ultra grey rtv, or else splendiferous anaerobica the entire loop ova mosta beautiful situation.

Only the manufacturers put gaskets on dry; perhaps to test if they will actually make it outta warranty before they hafta pay dealer techs to fixa(?). Whooza knowzuh. not me.

If you drop the gasket in a ziplock bag (oops, branding), then squeeze in a generous amount of high qual non-volatile RTV...
then close the bag with as little air inside as possible... then squish it all around inside the bag, until the gasket is thoroughly coated... what you will have is a gasket that is ready to be even more impervious to the hostile interior environment of the engine, and a really badashian seal everywhere something touches it.
Just don't go overboard (you know) and end up with a bunch squeezing into the motor. IOW, when the gasket is coated tacky, slap it on.

Thanks for hearing me out. I think I was gettin' lonely out here in the sticks.
That is an amazing advice! What's a high quality non-volatile RTV, though? Is Ultra grey RTV an example?
 

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So for those curious, I replaced the gasket. The OEM gasket was relatively cheap, as was Ultra Grey gasket maker. It doesn't seem to leak anymore.

It took me overall about 3-4 hours, and here's my experience.
1) There is **** all space to work above the engine if you don't drop it (I didn't). Even the simplest task of removing the valve cover safely, without dropping any dirt into the head, was almost impossible. After a lot of wiggling and strongarming some harnesses and cables, I managed to extract the valve cover. I scraped it in few spots, and realized there is no way I can install it with the gasket coated in Ultra Grey as @DukeofSeven suggested without leaving all the Ultra Grey all over wires, cables, and the frame.
2) To avoid risking misplacing or damaging the gasket covered in the gasket maker, I had to apply a very thin bead of the RTV on the top side of the gasket, seat it into the groove, and wait for it to harden a bit. Then, I applied a slightly thicker bead on the bottom side of the gasket, and again strongarmed the valve cover back into place. I left a few smudges of RTV on some wires, cables, and the frame, but the sealant was mostly intact so as to still seal the gasket.
3) Somehow the service manual doesn't specify the bolt tightening order, so I just did criss-cross, going to the closest adjacent bolt after a diagonal jump.
4) A couple of days after assembling the Duke, I went on a short ride (about 30 miles total), and happily noticed that the engine is clean and dry where it used to leak.
5) While I had the tank off, I also installed the Iridium spark plug, but didn't notice any difference in pretty much anything while riding.

Overall, not a fun job, but not horrible, either. Should be a lot easier and more robust if the engine is dropped, but that's a whole separate can of worms.
 

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Dude, ya shoulda told me!
I've been bored outta my mind, for a week and a half, here in Florida hellllllll!
I'da hopped on a flight and came out to hold the wires away for ya! 😄

but oh yeah, cheers. (y)
 

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Next time, I'll just drop the engine. I think it's the tank, harness, and the chain to disconnect, that's it, right?
 

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Well, i'm not actually allowed to swear like this online, but i think it's just a little more than that.
But i think you actually knew that already.

personally, i liked the idea of the jack adapter so much that i bought one.
plus it was cheap.
plus the fact that i've only got two arms and
I seem to be able to count on myself in these situations...
but everybody else seems to drop trannies on me, or drive vans over me, or conspire to burn my face off, or
well -- you get the idea.

[zhit!! wow, i feel like i just relived all that all over again]
 

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What's a jack adapter in this context? Like a pre-made part specifically to lower the 390's engine? Or a more generic thing?
 

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I need to make one of those as I’m planning to drop the engine. Might be amusing to see what KTM charges.


Seriously though never ever use RTV anywhere near an engine. Threebond and similar break up in engine oil. Silicone doesn’t and instead blocks oil galleries. Lots of bike engines have self destructed after silicone was used. I have the remains of an engine where a cam ate a journal to the point that the valve ended up buried in the piston because someone thought it was a good idea to use rtv to seal the valve cover. Yeah you might be lucky but everyone’s luck runs out sooner or later.
 

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I need to make one of those as I’m planning to drop the engine. Might be amusing to see what KTM charges.


Seriously though never ever use RTV anywhere near an engine. Threebond and similar break up in engine oil. Silicone doesn’t and instead blocks oil galleries. Lots of bike engines have self destructed after silicone was used. I have the remains of an engine where a cam ate a journal to the point that the valve ended up buried in the piston because someone thought it was a good idea to use rtv to seal the valve cover. Yeah you might be lucky but everyone’s luck runs out sooner or later.
I too wondered the price. Over here the attachment can be had for under 60$
 

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Seriously though never ever use RTV anywhere near an engine. Threebond and similar break up in engine oil. Silicone doesn’t and instead blocks oil galleries. Lots of bike engines have self destructed after silicone was used. I have the remains of an engine where a cam ate a journal to the point that the valve ended up buried in the piston because someone thought it was a good idea to use rtv to seal the valve cover. Yeah you might be lucky but everyone’s luck runs out sooner or later.
The service manual calls for sealant Loctite 5910, which is silicon-based. Please explain the discrepancy between what KTM says and what you say.
 
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